Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 5-1-21
2014 Sandlands, Trousseau - at peak; light-weight, easily mistaken for a Jura; bright, resonant, complex and paired well with asparagus with mustard sauce (hard to believe) as well as grilled chicken and pan-fried thin-sliced potatoes. Diane was very pleased (which happens once a year or so) and I loved it. Exceptional.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - 100% skin-fermented and is coming out of its early angular stage into its integrated, complex, fully fruited stage. No oxidation whatever and it’s longevity is hard to determine; could last 10-20 years more or not - but it shows no signs of diminishment at age 9. Excellent with a cheese plate.
2013 Cruise Wine, Syrah Heintz Vineyard - decanted off substantial sediment; quiet nose but obviously Syrah from the Sonoma Coast; integrated, balanced and more finesse than expected; coastal Syrah flavors and good length. My last bottle.
2018 Harrington, Sagrantino Calleri Vineyard - true to the grape and great fruit on both the nose and palate but once you swallow, the tannins come swarming in. Not for the faint of heart but softens some as the evening goes along. And excellent with pizza.
2017 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - (not skin-fermented) salty, mineral, savory wine with accents of fruit. A wine that requires food and attention - not a quaffer. Exactly the same fruit I got every year but I stopped the malolactic this vintage; what a difference a year makes.
2011 Domaine de Roally, Vire-Clesse - after ten years of following a case of this wine I find it competent but no more. I have heard the raves and those who think RS helps; I disagree. I appreciate the skill but this is not my style. And so, I leave it to those whose range is greater than mine. Adieu.
2016 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Antle Vineyard - always a high toned wine, this fits the mold but with more depth and substance than “high-toned” implies. Not my favorite wine from this house but always light, intense and “D&R” - and that will do nicely with pizza tonight.
2015 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Antle Vineyard - less developed than the ‘16 but in the same high-toned style. I’ll wait to open another.
2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vineyard - what fun; throughout the evening this wine was a source of controversy; Diane saying one thing, me something else. “I’m not sure; we’ll maybe; and then again . . .” But we finished the bottle.
I love these kind of wines; they reveal themselves in increments, are perceived in different ways and engender debate. And they bring you back for another taste.
If you have it, no rush; if you don’t, too bad.
2010 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - (obtained thru the generosity of the wine maker) Secondary development noticeable but the Ribbon Ridge signature and structure are clear. At eleven, this has relaxed and broadened into a sort of bone-marrow meatiness that is still focused and of a piece. Nothing heavy or out-sized; just a balanced, evolving complexity that helps me to understand what Oregon Pinot, at its best, can be. And it reinforces my behavior of buying at least a case of this designation every vintage.
Special wine.
2015 Idlewild, Cortese - 25% of this is skin-fermented and sees extended maceration, the remainder is direct to press. In their early years, much as any skin-fermented white, these tend to be disjointed and a little clumsy. But as they age, the wine comes together, not just in flavor but in texture; it starts to show its depth and precision. This vintage is lovely now (with no signs of waning) and bears little resemblance to Gavi - there is a richness to the flavors and the overall shape of the wine is balanced and complete. Even more remarkable is the finish; long and complex. My last bottle; gone too soon.
Identical on the third night.
2018 Louis Michel, Montee de Tonnerre - after a bottle of this last week that was young but wide open and generous, this seemed to be pinching in on itself; perhaps, a good snooze is in order. The rest of my bottles are consigned to the cellar.
Even firmer on day two.
2011 Alain Verset, Cornas - in its youth, an outstanding Cornas, heady with its sense of place and complexity. Now, it seems to have “younged up” such that it shows more raw and disjointed. Still outstanding but in need of sleep. Stunning wine.
(IMO, Noel’s nephew has talent but it is vintage specific. Hopefully, that improves; with this vintage he crushed it.)
2017 Harrington, Trousseau Siletto Vineyard - quite similar to the Sandlands mentioned above but a bit more flamboyant. A balanced, Jura-esque Trousseau that is very easy to drink.
Best, jim
2014 Sandlands, Trousseau - at peak; light-weight, easily mistaken for a Jura; bright, resonant, complex and paired well with asparagus with mustard sauce (hard to believe) as well as grilled chicken and pan-fried thin-sliced potatoes. Diane was very pleased (which happens once a year or so) and I loved it. Exceptional.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - 100% skin-fermented and is coming out of its early angular stage into its integrated, complex, fully fruited stage. No oxidation whatever and it’s longevity is hard to determine; could last 10-20 years more or not - but it shows no signs of diminishment at age 9. Excellent with a cheese plate.
2013 Cruise Wine, Syrah Heintz Vineyard - decanted off substantial sediment; quiet nose but obviously Syrah from the Sonoma Coast; integrated, balanced and more finesse than expected; coastal Syrah flavors and good length. My last bottle.
2018 Harrington, Sagrantino Calleri Vineyard - true to the grape and great fruit on both the nose and palate but once you swallow, the tannins come swarming in. Not for the faint of heart but softens some as the evening goes along. And excellent with pizza.
2017 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - (not skin-fermented) salty, mineral, savory wine with accents of fruit. A wine that requires food and attention - not a quaffer. Exactly the same fruit I got every year but I stopped the malolactic this vintage; what a difference a year makes.
2011 Domaine de Roally, Vire-Clesse - after ten years of following a case of this wine I find it competent but no more. I have heard the raves and those who think RS helps; I disagree. I appreciate the skill but this is not my style. And so, I leave it to those whose range is greater than mine. Adieu.
2016 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Antle Vineyard - always a high toned wine, this fits the mold but with more depth and substance than “high-toned” implies. Not my favorite wine from this house but always light, intense and “D&R” - and that will do nicely with pizza tonight.
2015 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Antle Vineyard - less developed than the ‘16 but in the same high-toned style. I’ll wait to open another.
2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vineyard - what fun; throughout the evening this wine was a source of controversy; Diane saying one thing, me something else. “I’m not sure; we’ll maybe; and then again . . .” But we finished the bottle.
I love these kind of wines; they reveal themselves in increments, are perceived in different ways and engender debate. And they bring you back for another taste.
If you have it, no rush; if you don’t, too bad.
2010 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - (obtained thru the generosity of the wine maker) Secondary development noticeable but the Ribbon Ridge signature and structure are clear. At eleven, this has relaxed and broadened into a sort of bone-marrow meatiness that is still focused and of a piece. Nothing heavy or out-sized; just a balanced, evolving complexity that helps me to understand what Oregon Pinot, at its best, can be. And it reinforces my behavior of buying at least a case of this designation every vintage.
Special wine.
2015 Idlewild, Cortese - 25% of this is skin-fermented and sees extended maceration, the remainder is direct to press. In their early years, much as any skin-fermented white, these tend to be disjointed and a little clumsy. But as they age, the wine comes together, not just in flavor but in texture; it starts to show its depth and precision. This vintage is lovely now (with no signs of waning) and bears little resemblance to Gavi - there is a richness to the flavors and the overall shape of the wine is balanced and complete. Even more remarkable is the finish; long and complex. My last bottle; gone too soon.
Identical on the third night.
2018 Louis Michel, Montee de Tonnerre - after a bottle of this last week that was young but wide open and generous, this seemed to be pinching in on itself; perhaps, a good snooze is in order. The rest of my bottles are consigned to the cellar.
Even firmer on day two.
2011 Alain Verset, Cornas - in its youth, an outstanding Cornas, heady with its sense of place and complexity. Now, it seems to have “younged up” such that it shows more raw and disjointed. Still outstanding but in need of sleep. Stunning wine.
(IMO, Noel’s nephew has talent but it is vintage specific. Hopefully, that improves; with this vintage he crushed it.)
2017 Harrington, Trousseau Siletto Vineyard - quite similar to the Sandlands mentioned above but a bit more flamboyant. A balanced, Jura-esque Trousseau that is very easy to drink.
Best, jim