Jayson Cohen
Jayson Cohen
I had to visit Justin Coleman at Monarch Wine Merchants in Charleston, SC, on my way back from FL to NYC to discover Picrochole, a wonderful Pineau d’Aunis from Ariane Lesné of Domaine de Montrieux in the Coteaux du Vendômois (in the Loir valley just up the river from Jasnières). Justin pitched the wine to me as his favorite Pineau d’Aunis not made by Eric Nicolas (mentioning Le Rouge-Gorge) just downstream. I was sold—curiosity and all, despite that pesky “2018” branded on the cork.
Made from vines that are advertised in various places as 17 and 30 years old and sporting a hip label, I expected glou glou. I was wrong, sort of. This not only shows a very distinct and refreshing combination of forward fleshy fruit and pure Pineau D’Aunis aromas I would describe as spicy purple fruit mixed with grapefruit, it also is remarkably balanced and structured for aging. It’s a gulpable wine that easily lasted over a week in the open bottle and married well with foods as diverse as grilled salmon and lamb saag. It finished tonight as strong and open as it started last week. It’s also the first 2018 red from anywhere close to the Loire I genuinely both liked and had confidence will age well. And my closest reference point for this one is probably Clos Roche Blanche L’Arpent Rouge, which is high praise.
Selection Massale brings this in although I don’t recall it from the portfolio tasting a year and a half ago. Based on Wine Searcher, you can still get it if you want to try it and haven’t.
Made from vines that are advertised in various places as 17 and 30 years old and sporting a hip label, I expected glou glou. I was wrong, sort of. This not only shows a very distinct and refreshing combination of forward fleshy fruit and pure Pineau D’Aunis aromas I would describe as spicy purple fruit mixed with grapefruit, it also is remarkably balanced and structured for aging. It’s a gulpable wine that easily lasted over a week in the open bottle and married well with foods as diverse as grilled salmon and lamb saag. It finished tonight as strong and open as it started last week. It’s also the first 2018 red from anywhere close to the Loire I genuinely both liked and had confidence will age well. And my closest reference point for this one is probably Clos Roche Blanche L’Arpent Rouge, which is high praise.
Selection Massale brings this in although I don’t recall it from the portfolio tasting a year and a half ago. Based on Wine Searcher, you can still get it if you want to try it and haven’t.
