Surprised by the loveliness/readiness of 2008 Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Beaux Bruns

K

Karen Goetz

Karen Goetz
...because it was so beautiful right when the bottle was opened a few days ago: the bouquet poured out of the bottle and it was alive and lovely in my mouth. Truly a dancing, elegant wine, stunning flavor, great acidity and fine tannins, berry fruits and minerals. I wasn't expecting it to be ready (see below).

I've heard so much on this birrrrd about Barthod's wines taking forever to develop. This is wonderful Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru right now. Lissome, balanced, fresh, musical.

Any thoughts from those who know Barthod's wines better than I? My prior experience is 2001 Ch-M 1er cru Veroilles tasted in 2017 (at 16 years very pretty but a little tight in my mouth) and 2007 Ch-M 1er cru Veroilles tasted in 2021 (at 14 years felt a bit restrained).

Every vintage of every cru is different from every other, and perhaps Beaux Bruns is simply a happier place.
 
I just had dinner with the SE Rosenthal rep the other night and in discussing Barthod and the potential future we discussed how the wines had become (marginally) more approachable at an early age and the Beaux Bruns in particular. We had a 2009 a few months back that was fantastic.

2009 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/2/2020)

The nose jumps out with brambly, earthy, dark fruit. The palate follows that lead with sap and richness and while this is the naturally more fruited Beaux Bruns it is still Barthod thus a bit of air brings shape. There is a nice rocky, soil tone underneath and a leathery savory edge I associate with Barthod wines this vineyard. I'm really happy with how this is showing now and I expect it will continue to improve in this partially resolved and still fruit-filled rendition for several years. This is a really nice spot for me where the structure has opened enough to let you in but before the fruit has started to become tertiary. (93 points)
Click to expand...
 
If you poke around with the search engine here you can find a few notes on Barthod and even one or two on Beaux Bruns. As I recall, it's a mixed bag of "not ready" and "very beautiful", and I don't think age correlated very well.
 
Good thoughts, all, and VLM your notes for the 2009 are very close to my experience. There was a definite soil note among the brambly fruits as well as a mineral edge, and it had distinct structure (tannins, acidity,
minerality) that balanced the edgy fruits.
 
I suspect it is a function of good CdN 08 premier crus being open right now. Grivot’s Boudots 08 was fabulous last week. Next year that Barthod may once again shut down and seem not yet ready.

But that bottle sounds lovely.
 
originally posted by maureen:
I suspect it is a function of good CdN 08 premier crus being open right now. Grivot’s Boudots 08 was fabulous last week. Next year that Barthod may once again shut down and seem not yet ready.

But that bottle sounds lovely.
Click to expand...

I am happy to have hit a right moment. Your comment about dynamics of wine aging seems right on. I'm curious to try a 2008 Gevrey-Ch soon to see how Chambolle's pals are doing.

Thanks!
 
originally posted by Karen Goetz:
originally posted by maureen:
I suspect it is a function of good CdN 08 premier crus being open right now. Grivot’s Boudots 08 was fabulous last week. Next year that Barthod may once again shut down and seem not yet ready.

But that bottle sounds lovely.
Click to expand...

I am happy to have hit a right moment. Your comment about dynamics of wine aging seems right on. I'm curious to try a 2008 Gevrey-Ch soon to see how Chambolle's pals are doing.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I don't suppose you mean a 2008 Gevrey-Ch that happens to share the physical cellar space with aforementioned Beaux Bruns? Last time I touched that wine it was not pleased to see me, but - hey - it's been a couple of years, and perhaps we are in one of those lucky cycles.

Incidentally I was curious and looked for my barrel notes for the 08s, but it appears I missed Barthod on that particular visit. Unless I am looking in the wrong place.
 
originally posted by Pavel Tchichikov:
originally posted by Karen Goetz:
originally posted by maureen:
I suspect it is a function of good CdN 08 premier crus being open right now. Grivot’s Boudots 08 was fabulous last week. Next year that Barthod may once again shut down and seem not yet ready.

But that bottle sounds lovely.
Click to expand...

I am happy to have hit a right moment. Your comment about dynamics of wine aging seems right on. I'm curious to try a 2008 Gevrey-Ch soon to see how Chambolle's pals are doing.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I don't suppose you mean a 2008 Gevrey-Ch that happens to share the physical cellar space with aforementioned Beaux Bruns? Last time I touched that wine it was not pleased to see me, but - hey - it's been a couple of years, and perhaps we are in one of those lucky cycles.

Incidentally I was curious and looked for my barrel notes for the 08s, but it appears I missed Barthod on that particular visit. Unless I am looking in the wrong place.
Click to expand...

No, I think of some of the appellations as les voisins or les copines. Although it's true that the '08 Gevrey-Chambertin and Barthod are nestling against each other in my cellar, as well. Funny.

If you find those notes I'd love to see them... my only visit with Mme Barthod was 2006 and I'm curious.
 
originally posted by Karen Goetz:
originally posted by maureen:
I suspect it is a function of good CdN 08 premier crus being open right now. Grivot’s Boudots 08 was fabulous last week. Next year that Barthod may once again shut down and seem not yet ready.

But that bottle sounds lovely.
Click to expand...

I am happy to have hit a right moment. Your comment about dynamics of wine aging seems right on. I'm curious to try a 2008 Gevrey-Ch soon to see how Chambolle's pals are doing.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you have it, I've had great luck with Louis Boillot Geverey Evocelles from 2008. The 1er Crus, not so much.

Looking back, I've also had really good bottles of Esmonin CSJ from Gevrey.

From other communes, Chevillon Cailles and pretty much everything from Mugneret-Gibourg.
 
I opened '08 Savigny "Aux Vergelesses", Simon Bize on Monday night. Very fragrant, lighter in color than what one typically sees in Burgundy nowadays. It definitely had that '08 acidity and tannin was a bit grippy. It was a hit with my offline group (our first offline at a restaurant since COVID).

There was still about 1/3 left. I finished it last night. It melded together very nicely. Tannin and acidity had integrated with the fruit. A much better wine on day 2.
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
I opened '08 Savigny "Aux Vergelesses", Simon Bize on Monday night. Very fragrant, lighter in color than what one typically sees in Burgundy nowadays. It definitely had that '08 acidity and tannin was a bit grippy. It was a hit with my offline group (our first offline at a restaurant since COVID).

There was still about 1/3 left. I finished it last night. It melded together very nicely. Tannin and acidity had integrated with the fruit. A much better wine on day 2.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the note, Larry. I don't have Bize but I have other Savigny.

How'd it feel going to a resto?
 
It was really nice. One of our regular spots in our offline rotation. They were thrilled to have us back and we were thrilled to be back. The menu wasn't as extensive as before, but the food was up to their usual standards.

Our group met a month ago at one of the member's home for his birthday. Spouses/SOs, too. That event felt like our first time. We had zoomed weekly (with very few breaks, maybe 3 weeks total) since the beginning of April 2020. We'll still do that, but the plan is twice a month, nothing at all for one week, and offline the 4th week.
 
Sounds like the spot held onto their cooks. Good for them, I hope.

I like your sched. The NY Zooming group was never so regular as that but I'm still all-in for continued sessions every few weeks. It's another excuse to see people.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Karen Goetz:
originally posted by maureen:
I suspect it is a function of good CdN 08 premier crus being open right now. Grivot’s Boudots 08 was fabulous last week. Next year that Barthod may once again shut down and seem not yet ready.

But that bottle sounds lovely.
Click to expand...

I am happy to have hit a right moment. Your comment about dynamics of wine aging seems right on. I'm curious to try a 2008 Gevrey-Ch soon to see how Chambolle's pals are doing.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you have it, I've had great luck with Louis Boillot Geverey Evocelles from 2008. The 1er Crus, not so much.

Looking back, I've also had really good bottles of Esmonin CSJ from Gevrey.

From other communes, Chevillon Cailles and pretty much everything from Mugneret-Gibourg.
Click to expand...

OOOH, Chevillon....
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
I opened '08 Savigny "Aux Vergelesses", Simon Bize on Monday night. Very fragrant, lighter in color than what one typically sees in Burgundy nowadays. It definitely had that '08 acidity and tannin was a bit grippy. It was a hit with my offline group (our first offline at a restaurant since COVID).

There was still about 1/3 left. I finished it last night. It melded together very nicely. Tannin and acidity had integrated with the fruit. A much better wine on day 2.
Click to expand...

Nice note, Larry, thanks. Seems like we are building a head of steam on reports from 2008. Brava!
 
Good to hear about those ‘08s. That was the first Burgundy vintage I bought in quantity. I’ve got Barthod, Boillot and a few different Savignys. I am very psyched to broach a few.

Mark Lipton
 
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