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JasonA

Jason Adams
Not making the first wave of returning Americans this summer but will be back this fall - Thanksgiving Week. It's been at least ten years since I've been to the City of Light, this trip is long over due. For those who have made their way back and have now returned and those still holding the memories of their pre-pandemic trip dear, I am reaching out to the community for your recommendations. Looking for both the restaurant and bar-a-vin scene as well as a general location for accommodations. Just the wife and I and we will be there for a week, so looking for the AirBnB/VRBO route.

Looking forward to your responses. Thank you

Jason
 
this will be random, almost train of thought, based on 40 days stay in 2019 and 30 in 2017:

--do you have any interesting cartography? One of my favorite rooms in Paris is Musée Plans-Reliefs, top floor of les Invalides. You can easily amuse yourself for an hour, not feel the need to take in the entirety of the enormous totality of the army museum, and maybe admire the building of les Invalides at leisure.

--same neighborhood, one of my favorite things to do is lunch au plain aire on the grounds of the Rodin museum. there is a small (bad) café on the grounds, ignore it. Just bring in food and wine and go to the back by the children's playground and use the wide benches. Nobody cares. They don't search bags, and lots of people bring lunches, including wine. I went often enough that they waved me through admissions (neighborhood residents bring kids to play in the back lot, so it is common.). The sculptures are around you, it is tranquil, and in general you feel as if you are luxuriating on the sly. (The dome of les Invalides is the backdrop). Then you can take in Balzac, Calais, etc, at your leisure, though the delightful rose garden will be defunct.

--same neighborhood, Arnaud Nicolas is, I think, well known at this point. But worth a reminder as this restaurant does things not all that common. The variety and excellence of the p“té en croûte is unmatched. I know his charcuterie gets high marks, but I am so taken with the en croûte that I have never tried it. Rue Bourdonnais.

--same neighborhood, before dinner you can wander past l'Immueble Lavirotte on rue Rapp as you walk to r. Bourdonnais.

--the new(ish) bibliothèque nationale (Francois Mitterand), over beyond the eastern SNCF stations, gets bad reviews as a functioning library, *but* it puts on awesome exhibitions.

--residents of l'Île de France are big fans of les randonées and have excellent walking paths all around Paris. something I like to do is find a useful train line to one village as a starting pointing, take a pleasant morning walk (often along a stream), ending in another village with a good connecting train ride back to the city. It isn't hard to find a good restaurant for lunch at the terminus. I usually plan this in reverse, ie: find the village with a good restaurant, interesting small museum or garden or church, and look for the path leading out of it to find the starting village. Pretty much every village will have SNCF service, Montfort l'Amaury is a notable example of one without service.

--le Petit Sommelier (near Gare Montparnasse) has an excellent Loire valley wine list, prices at US retail, including some of the domaines that have reached high prices here: Alliet, Grobois, Guibertreau, Amirault. Food is good.

--my favorite cheese monger is Barthélemy. Not a particularly wide selection (though wide enough), the selling point is the quality. He must have long established ties with excellent producers. Near the Musée Maillot, so that must make it rue Grenelle(?).

--it might be a cliché at this point, but I think everybody should try the soufflé Grand Marnier at Joséphine Chez Dumonet at least once. Everything else is good, but priced at Paris levels.

I could go on! I hope to be going in November myself...
 
I thought of a recommendation I haven't seen at all on travel forums or message boards:

--check out concerts at La Seine Musicale. The Phillharmonie doesn't get much love as an expression of architecture, though I like it better than most. But La Seine Musicale is truly attractive, interesting, in a somewhat grand setting (island in the Seine). A Métro line ends just across the river from it. Bonus: you will in a part of Paris to which not many tourists venture.
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles: I think everybody should try the soufflé Grand Marnier at Joséphine Chez Dumonet at least once.

Speaking of notable desserts, if you can venture to Maison Lameloise, Chagny, the crepes Suzette are forever memorable...

Originally touted to me by Jean-Marie Ancher when he was manager at Le Taillevent, Les crepes de Suzette...



Maison Lameloise is an outstanding restaurant; in fact, when I mentioned to Jean-Marie that it could not be better than his own restaurant, Le Taillevent, he said, "Don't be so sure." (pretty high praise)

Speaking of Paris, we hope to be there the middle of May (hoping the Covid restrictions are no longer in effect).

. . . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
--the new(ish) bibliothèque nationale (Francois Mitterand), over beyond the eastern SNCF stations, gets bad reviews as a functioning library, *but* it puts on awesome exhibitions.

Alas, that is the problem with libraries these days: everyone wants them to be something which they are not.
 
If you are looking for a really nice 3 star Michelin type thing, we had a pretty fantastic five hour lunch at le Cinq; really beautiful room, incredible service and food. We still talk about it. Had both a Raveneau and Clos Rougeard...perfectly a point. Ended the visit in the cave with the sommelier.

Apartment rental for the week is a great way to go...all we do anymore...
 
Don’t miss Jacques Genin if you like that kind of thing. Some of the incredible patisserie can only be bought if you eat in the tea room or preorder a larger one to take home.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
--the new(ish) bibliothèque nationale (Francois Mitterand), over beyond the eastern SNCF stations, gets bad reviews as a functioning library, *but* it puts on awesome exhibitions.

Alas, that is the problem with libraries these days: everyone wants them to be something which they are not.

I agree with the general point. But at the exhibits I viewed all of the items were in the collection of the library and would otherwise probably see the light of day in rare circumstances. Plus, they weren't curios, but generally concerned with the history of science and printing. I find these efforts some of the least objectionable distractions currently plaguing libraries.
 
originally posted by Ben Hunting:
Don’t miss Jacques Genin if you like that kind of thing. Some of the incredible patisserie can only be bought if you eat in the tea room or preorder a larger one to take home.

Make sure and try the basil chocolates!
 
I do not remember the name of the shop but I think it was in the 1er. A candy and confectionery store, looked like it had been there 100 years. The lady tending it also looked like she had been there 100 years. I bought whole candied clementines, walked a block or two down to a corner cafe facing a small park, and drank strong coffee, nibbled clementines, and watched the people.

--

I took a video tour of the catacombs and the guide also spoke about the Petite Ceinture. It was a railway loop that circumnavigated the city at the turn of the last century, immensely popular then, but entirely abandoned since 1934. Parts of it have become like the High Line and are nostalgically walkable.

--

I'm also a fan of short-stay rentals. Remember that Airbnb and VRBO do not have a lock on the market. (They're the 800-pound gorillas but they're not everything.)
 
Heading to Paris for a few days (following two weeks in the Loire) at the very end of July, very beginning of August, with Chelsea and our son, who is seven. We haven't been since 2019. No particular agenda, other than the desire for a few nice meals. Any updates or recommendations here? We are probably going to skip the three Michelin star type places, given the circumstances, but our son is well-behaved and adventurous enough for anything short of that.
 
Michel Rostang's restaurant was excellent a few weeks ago. More on the old-fashioned bistro scale, Le Marigny on Champs-Élysées was a delight.

. . . . . . Pete
 
Most restaurants of interest in Paris will be closed for at least a week or two in August, but most haven't yet announced when their closures will be (some will tell you now if you ask). If you make reservations now, check back shortly before your visit, as closure dates sometimes change on short notice.
 
Sota Atsumi, former chef at Clown Bar, is reopening his place Maison at the end of June after several months of renovations on top of COVID disruptions. It looks like they're currently accepting bookings through July 30. That's a seat that I would hustle for (am hustling for).

Parcelles is a sweet little spot in the 3e that happens to be right down the street from my place. The chef used to be at Semilla and his cooking tends towards classics of "bourgeoise" cuisine with a a minimalist touch: pate en croute, sweetbreads, chou farci with foie gras, chicken ballotine, and veal head carpaccio. Their list mixes deep cuts (old Lenoir Chinon and Chateau des Tours, a decent collection of Cappellano) with younger culty stuff (L'Anglore, Vigne du Perron, couteaux champenois by Lurquin and Feneuil, Jura treasures from Murmures), and is quite democratically priced. Very friendly vibe and a good place for a family dinner, but they're hot enough that I would book at least two weeks in advance. They only book out 30 days in advance so it's not clear what their plans are for the end of July/August.

Phil
 
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