Originally posted 5/24/02
Thought Id finally get around to posting some belated notes from a dinner almost two months ago before the visiting guest of honor flies back here to carry out his threat to break my knees. Thats what I get for getting conned into being designated note taker.
Roy Hersh, Mr. Oporto himself, was in New York to pay a couple of his buddies from the AOL wine board (yes, there still is a pulse there) a visit. Attending were Mark Golodetz and Paul Napolitano with their better halves, Roy and myself.
It was a delightful dinner at 11 Madison and our wines were ably served by Steve Beckta, whom I consider one of the best sommeliers in the city.
There were certainly some nice wines poured as well as many that my friends knew would shock and horrify my sensitive palate. Im sure theyll pipe in when they see my notes.
Speaking of notes, on to them.
Brad
1990 Bollinger- Champagne, Grand Anne
Im not the biggest fan of Champagne as it contains two of my least favorite grapes, but this was quite enjoyable. It had a light mousse, a rich, creamy mouth-feel and baked apple and light spice aromas and flavors. A-.
1997 Neillon- Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Vergers
As many know, I would sooner drink water than finish a glass of Chardonnay (from any region) thats been poured for me. Its certainly not a snobbish thing. My mouth simply does not react well to most Chardonnay. While the others at the table were ohhhing and ahhhing over the wine, I found it to be an above average Chard, but nothing to get too excited about. It was fat and rich with a light touch of elegance. Fairly harmonious with the oak well-contained. Flint, smoke, pineapple and a dash of pear on the nose and palate. Low B+.
1999 Neillon- Batard-Montrachet
Much tighter and higher-toned on the nose nose than the 97 Chassagne-Montrachet. Theres more structure to this wine, although its also leaner. Tight as hell with mineral and smoke dominating. Give me a Schlumberger Pinot Blanc for $8 instead, please. B.
1983 Chateau St. Michelle- Cabernet Sauvignon, Cold Creek Vineyard (mystery wine, served double blind)
Raisined nose with a touch of menthol, earth and root/sassafras. On the palate the raisined black fruit has faded and is subsumed by high acidity and austere tannins. It has left the building and gone to that great big cask in the sky. C-.
1983 Grange- Hermitage
Opaque ruby color. A somewhat fascinating nose in a car wreck sort of way. Theres an intriguing and very apparent curry aroma on the wine that is noticeable even through the volatile nail polish remover aromas and tart red fruit. The dominating vanilla/oak aroma cant even cover it. On the palate, the rather lean and unimpressive fruit is completely obliterated by the oak, which also lends an unpleasant bitterness to the wine. C+.
1983 Jaboulet- Hermitage, La Chapelle
This wine, and La Chapelle in general, consistently underwhelms me. I find it always pleasant enough, but rarely shows greatness. It has a fairly high-toned nose with a lovely raspberry liqueur perfume rounded out nicely by earth and light spice aromas. Still youthful on the palate with rather high acid levels. Its gritty yet pleasant in the mouth with similar flavors as aromas. Finishes with a blast of tart acidity. B+.
1989 LAngelus- St. Emilion
This is consistently one of my favorite Bordeaux and a clear star from 89. Its a beautiful wine with an opulent and perfumed nose of rich black fruit, violets and a touch of chocolate wrapped in an herb cloak. Elegant and rich on the palate with impeccable balance. The black fruit is delicious and laced with a little bit more herb than I can recall it having in the past. A nice mineral streak rounds it out. Love it. A.
1989 Montrose- St. Estphe
The Brett averse may have a problem with this wine as it has a nice stink to it, but I like it. Its pretty tight right now on the nose and palate, but swirling and air brings out rich and focused red fruit, earth, iron and beef blood flavors and aromas. Tannins have a firm grip on things at the moment, but this is also one of my favorites. Id let mine rest awhile longer. A.
1995 Huet- Vouvray, Cuve Constance
Clearly infanticide, but sometimes the interests of science must take precedence. Somewhat muted on the nose with botrytis/honey dominating. Backward on the palate with mouth battering acidity. Theres plenty of richness and sweetness here with delectable honey, pollen, apricot, quince and sweet citrus flavors, but right now the structure dominates this wine. Delicious, but better to hold off on it for now so it can sort itself out and start to realize its full potential. Solid A.
1966 Fonseca- Port
After having tried a couple of off bottles, it was nice to finally try a bottle that showed well, although we did the wine a grave injustice by not decanting it nearly long enough. Smells a lot like cough medicine, but in a good way. Plenty of sweet cherries, eucalyptus, sweet baking spices with a touch of spirit on the nose. Quite disjointed on the palate and showing a lot of youth. The tannins are quite firm and the alcohol sticks out a bit too much, but if left in a decanter for half a day, I would imagine the wine would be singing. Despite its awkwardness, the wine has terrific fruit and spice with a dash of coffee, molasses and mint. Drink or hold. Solid A-.
Thought Id finally get around to posting some belated notes from a dinner almost two months ago before the visiting guest of honor flies back here to carry out his threat to break my knees. Thats what I get for getting conned into being designated note taker.
Roy Hersh, Mr. Oporto himself, was in New York to pay a couple of his buddies from the AOL wine board (yes, there still is a pulse there) a visit. Attending were Mark Golodetz and Paul Napolitano with their better halves, Roy and myself.
It was a delightful dinner at 11 Madison and our wines were ably served by Steve Beckta, whom I consider one of the best sommeliers in the city.
There were certainly some nice wines poured as well as many that my friends knew would shock and horrify my sensitive palate. Im sure theyll pipe in when they see my notes.
Speaking of notes, on to them.
Brad
1990 Bollinger- Champagne, Grand Anne
Im not the biggest fan of Champagne as it contains two of my least favorite grapes, but this was quite enjoyable. It had a light mousse, a rich, creamy mouth-feel and baked apple and light spice aromas and flavors. A-.
1997 Neillon- Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Vergers
As many know, I would sooner drink water than finish a glass of Chardonnay (from any region) thats been poured for me. Its certainly not a snobbish thing. My mouth simply does not react well to most Chardonnay. While the others at the table were ohhhing and ahhhing over the wine, I found it to be an above average Chard, but nothing to get too excited about. It was fat and rich with a light touch of elegance. Fairly harmonious with the oak well-contained. Flint, smoke, pineapple and a dash of pear on the nose and palate. Low B+.
1999 Neillon- Batard-Montrachet
Much tighter and higher-toned on the nose nose than the 97 Chassagne-Montrachet. Theres more structure to this wine, although its also leaner. Tight as hell with mineral and smoke dominating. Give me a Schlumberger Pinot Blanc for $8 instead, please. B.
1983 Chateau St. Michelle- Cabernet Sauvignon, Cold Creek Vineyard (mystery wine, served double blind)
Raisined nose with a touch of menthol, earth and root/sassafras. On the palate the raisined black fruit has faded and is subsumed by high acidity and austere tannins. It has left the building and gone to that great big cask in the sky. C-.
1983 Grange- Hermitage
Opaque ruby color. A somewhat fascinating nose in a car wreck sort of way. Theres an intriguing and very apparent curry aroma on the wine that is noticeable even through the volatile nail polish remover aromas and tart red fruit. The dominating vanilla/oak aroma cant even cover it. On the palate, the rather lean and unimpressive fruit is completely obliterated by the oak, which also lends an unpleasant bitterness to the wine. C+.
1983 Jaboulet- Hermitage, La Chapelle
This wine, and La Chapelle in general, consistently underwhelms me. I find it always pleasant enough, but rarely shows greatness. It has a fairly high-toned nose with a lovely raspberry liqueur perfume rounded out nicely by earth and light spice aromas. Still youthful on the palate with rather high acid levels. Its gritty yet pleasant in the mouth with similar flavors as aromas. Finishes with a blast of tart acidity. B+.
1989 LAngelus- St. Emilion
This is consistently one of my favorite Bordeaux and a clear star from 89. Its a beautiful wine with an opulent and perfumed nose of rich black fruit, violets and a touch of chocolate wrapped in an herb cloak. Elegant and rich on the palate with impeccable balance. The black fruit is delicious and laced with a little bit more herb than I can recall it having in the past. A nice mineral streak rounds it out. Love it. A.
1989 Montrose- St. Estphe
The Brett averse may have a problem with this wine as it has a nice stink to it, but I like it. Its pretty tight right now on the nose and palate, but swirling and air brings out rich and focused red fruit, earth, iron and beef blood flavors and aromas. Tannins have a firm grip on things at the moment, but this is also one of my favorites. Id let mine rest awhile longer. A.
1995 Huet- Vouvray, Cuve Constance
Clearly infanticide, but sometimes the interests of science must take precedence. Somewhat muted on the nose with botrytis/honey dominating. Backward on the palate with mouth battering acidity. Theres plenty of richness and sweetness here with delectable honey, pollen, apricot, quince and sweet citrus flavors, but right now the structure dominates this wine. Delicious, but better to hold off on it for now so it can sort itself out and start to realize its full potential. Solid A.
1966 Fonseca- Port
After having tried a couple of off bottles, it was nice to finally try a bottle that showed well, although we did the wine a grave injustice by not decanting it nearly long enough. Smells a lot like cough medicine, but in a good way. Plenty of sweet cherries, eucalyptus, sweet baking spices with a touch of spirit on the nose. Quite disjointed on the palate and showing a lot of youth. The tannins are quite firm and the alcohol sticks out a bit too much, but if left in a decanter for half a day, I would imagine the wine would be singing. Despite its awkwardness, the wine has terrific fruit and spice with a dash of coffee, molasses and mint. Drink or hold. Solid A-.