Impressions 10-3-21

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
Impressions 10-3-21

N/V Agrapart, Champagne Terroirs Extra Brut - blanc de blanc, quite dry, almost steely and delicious.

2017 Falkenstein, Niedermenneger Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese feinherb - good volume and cut in the mouth, a kiss of sweetness, with lovely florals playing around its edges. Charming.

2008 Mugneret-Gibourg, Nuits-Saint-Georges les Chaignots - resolved, integrated, complex and light on its feet. Really, really good.

2018 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vineyard - richer and more fruit driven than the last bottle and showing young. Needs time but it’s not closed at all.

2016 Prudhon, Saint-Aubin les Perrieres - beautiful nose of flowers and stones, light and easy drinking, crisp and clean. Pretty wine.

2019 Clos Cibonne, Tibouron cuvée Tradition - Rose done sous voile from Provence that is very lightly colored but has all the flavor one could ask. A complete wine.

N/V Alexandre Filaine, Champagne Brut Speciale - more volume and texture than the Agrapart mentioned above but still crisp with a mineral backbone and good length. Very nice.

2015 Colombera and Garella, Bramaterra - an earthy, slightly rustic Nebbiolo blend with a worsted wool texture, excellent intensity and length. Mouth-wateringly good.

2015 Dom du Collier, Saumur Blanc - killer nose with all sorts of nuance and chenin range, bright, clear and refreshingly tasty. Maybe a little lighter weight than expected but so easy to drink.

2010 Flavio Roddolo, Barbera d’Alba - not a grape I pay much attention to but this bottle was an eye opener. Perfect balance, concentrated fruit and an almost elegant delivery. Superb.

2013 Cowan Cellars, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - in the fermenter I thought this would be a great wine. It was so pure. In the bottle it has always been tight; too tight to get a read on or really enjoy. Today, it has opened just enough to become an infant; baby fat sweet fruit, not quite integrated, evident concentration and still firm. Developing a velvety texture but it needs time.

2012 Cowan Cellars, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - much more open than the ‘13 but still showing a firm core. Drinking now but no rush.

Best, jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Impressions 10-3-21Impressions 10-3-21

2019 Clos Cibonne, Tibouron cuvée Tradition - Rose done sous voile from Provence that is very lightly colored but has all the flavor one could ask. A complete wine.
Now that sounds like an interesting wine, especially coming from a region threatened by a dull sameness, irrespective of quality.

2013 Cowan Cellars, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - in the fermenter...It was so pure. In the bottle it has always been tight; too tight to get a read on or really enjoy. Today, it has opened just enough to become an infant.
For me, this could describe a lot of Anderson Valley PN. Kind of like a CA version of Irancy or many 96 village tier Burgundies. Yet my eyes were opened by an older Ici la Bas PN from the Elke vineyard. The 2009 tasted in 2013 had been similar to above. The 2006 tasted in 2019 was the best California PNs I'd had in years. According to Mel Knox (one of the partners in Ici la Bas along with the late lamented Jim Clendenen), 2006 was an outstanding vintage there. But maybe Anderson Valley just needs patience?
 
Pinot from the Anderson Valley does seem to require patience, unless we’re talking about Golden Eye and some of the other highly commercial producers. That beet root/rhubarb/cranberry note I find so often in Pinot from that area comes across as “firm” to me.
And the Elke Vineyard is, I think, a prime example.
My fruit came from the Philo area just north of Navarro Winery and 2012 and 2013 seem to be cut from that cloth.
The 2014 fruit I got from there was an anomaly as it was generous early and more black cherry than I’d have expected. And I have no explanation for it as the seasons were similar.
Best, jim
 
The Roddolo wines are suis generis and fucking brilliant.

I adore the Clos Cibonne wines. Look for the Vignettes cuvee rose, a few dollars more, but more profound. They also make a Caroline, but I've never seen it. The red is delicious, too. Light, but with wonderful structure.
 
I recently bought several bottles of the Cibonne red and found the brett levels beyond my tolerance. That won’t keep me from buying it again but one at a time from now on.
The Vignettes is from vines twice as old as the Tradition so I would expect a bit more oomph. I think I’ve tasted it before but can’t remember now.
Best, jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
I recently bought several bottles of the Cibonne red and found the brett levels beyond my tolerance. That won’t keep me from buying it again but one at a time from now on.
The Vignettes is from vines twice as old as the Tradition so I would expect a bit more oomph. I think I’ve tasted it before but can’t remember now.
Best, jim

I know I’ve never had it, which is why I bought a bottle. It will probably come to a NYC dinner with me at some point soon or maybe next spring.

Anyway thanks for all the notes.

On the Falkenstein we need an AP number because the house made 3 or 4 Herrenberg Spätlese Feinherbs in 2017.
 
originally posted by scottreiner:
The Roddolo wines are suis generis and fucking brilliant.

I adore the Clos Cibonne wines. Look for the Vignettes cuvee rose, a few dollars more, but more profound. They also make a Caroline, but I've never seen it. The red is delicious, too. Light, but with wonderful structure.

Had a Caroline recently with a few years on it and it was still too oaky for me, thought the underlying fruit was top notch.

The Spéciale probably hits the sweet spot in the old vine/new oak continuum, but I think the basic offers almost as much for significantly less dough.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
but I think the basic offers almost as much for significantly less dough.

I just checked wholesale pricing, and while the Tradition is currently only available in magnum, I remember the difference in pricing being less than it currently is. Rosy retrospection?
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by scottreiner:
The Roddolo wines are suis generis and fucking brilliant.

I adore the Clos Cibonne wines. Look for the Vignettes cuvee rose, a few dollars more, but more profound. They also make a Caroline, but I've never seen it. The red is delicious, too. Light, but with wonderful structure.

Had a Caroline recently with a few years on it and it was still too oaky for me, thought the underlying fruit was top notch.

The Spéciale probably hits the sweet spot in the old vine/new oak continuum, but I think the basic offers almost as much for significantly less dough.

The Caroline is the only one is small barrels (300L) but I have no idea what percentage is new. The Tradition and Vignettes are raised in very old, huge foudres so I'm not sure where the oak notes would come from.

 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by scottreiner:
The Roddolo wines are suis generis and fucking brilliant.

I adore the Clos Cibonne wines. Look for the Vignettes cuvee rose, a few dollars more, but more profound. They also make a Caroline, but I've never seen it. The red is delicious, too. Light, but with wonderful structure.

Had a Caroline recently with a few years on it and it was still too oaky for me, thought the underlying fruit was top notch.

The Spéciale probably hits the sweet spot in the old vine/new oak continuum, but I think the basic offers almost as much for significantly less dough.

The Caroline is the only one is small barrels (300L) but I have no idea what percentage is new. The Tradition and Vignettes are raised in very old, huge foudres so I'm not sure where the oak notes would come from.


The one Spéciale we had (a 2014 six weeks ago) was showing a touch of oak, but much less than the Caroline (also a 2014, except ten weeks ago). The Caroline spends a full year in small barrels, and the impact wasn't so much egregious as annoying.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by scottreiner:
The Roddolo wines are suis generis and fucking brilliant.

I adore the Clos Cibonne wines. Look for the Vignettes cuvee rose, a few dollars more, but more profound. They also make a Caroline, but I've never seen it. The red is delicious, too. Light, but with wonderful structure.

Had a Caroline recently with a few years on it and it was still too oaky for me, thought the underlying fruit was top notch.

The Spéciale probably hits the sweet spot in the old vine/new oak continuum, but I think the basic offers almost as much for significantly less dough.

The Caroline is the only one is small barrels (300L) but I have no idea what percentage is new. The Tradition and Vignettes are raised in very old, huge foudres so I'm not sure where the oak notes would come from.


The one Spéciale we had (a 2014 six weeks ago) was showing a touch of oak, but much less than the Caroline (also a 2014, except ten weeks ago). The Caroline spends a full year in small barrels, and the impact wasn't so much egregious as annoying.

But, if the monkey is correct, it would be hard to see where even a touch of oak comes from. Maybe an impression from something else?
 
By chance anyone familiar with the "Chateau Cibon Cuvée Hommage a Marius" bottling from Clos Cibonne? Drink early or age? I have one bottle of 2017.
 
Marc,
From the importer’s website:

Vinification Following an early morning manual harvest, the grapes are all destemmed and directly pressed. Native yeasts then ferment the must in new 2600L French foudres. These are temperature-controlled for a long, slow fermentation, which enhances the aromatics. The wine then spends 24 months in the same foudres, with regular b“tonnage for the first six months.

Côtes de Provence
Site: Le Pradet at 50m 600m from the ocean
Grapes: 90% Tibouren / 10% Grenache
Vine Age: Over 60 years old
Soil: Clay calcareous with schist
Farming: Organic
Vinification: Fermented with native yeasts in 2600L French foudres
Aging: 24 months in 2600L French foudres with regular b“tonnage for the first six months, followed by a minimum of one year of bottle age
Vegan: Yes
Suggested Retail: $76.00 (750ml)

No comments on longevity.
Best, jim
 
Maybe I will bring it to R&R in early November if you can make it. I'm visiting even if R&R doesn't happen, have a work delivery like before. Might as well head a bit further south to, err, see South.
 
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