Impressions 11-2-21

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
Wine impressions 11-2-21

After some (too much) time apart, the contents of my cellar and I have been reunited here in the high country of NC - these are the tales of that glorious moment and several that followed.

2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Grenouilles - unprecedented dry extract in perfect balance with structure; showing young but evident grand cru depth, divine aromatics, dense concentration and an intense powerhouse in the mouth - if you added water, it would still be great wine. Everlasting finish. As good a Chablis as I’ve tasted and a tremendous future. Wow - no, make that WOW!

2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Temperance Hill - 12.2 abv; a little closed (but only a little) yet still aromatic with complexity and lovely flavors. But it’s the textures that lead me to believe that, in time, this will be extraordinary. A fine grained example of somebody that got good fruit and didn’t screw it up. Yum!

2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vineyard - the firmness of Ribbon Ridge is here but the concentration is what grabs my attention. Layered even now, and fine length. Another wine needing time yet with promise. Yum, yum!

2018 Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard - light red wine done as well as one could wish; pretty nose, beautiful fruit, light tannic grip and good length. A balanced, evocative wine that makes me think a little of very ripe cranberries. 12.5 abv and so easy to drink.

2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Orange Brosseau Vineyard - skin-fermented Chenin Blanc; a barrel sample - disjointed, texturally odd, not ready. Not even close. Hold.

2007 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - never released and the first wine I made. Syrah that is fruit driven (albeit, not sweet), balanced, integrated and with small accents of secondary development. Will not be confused with anything from the old world but is not over-oaked, over-sweet or alcoholic and, in fact, is attractive in its own dark fruited, savory way. Has not fallen off at all and clearly has time left.
While this isn’t the style I settled on, the wine is sound, expressive and in no way faded or over-done. At 14, it pleases me.
As the night progressed it pleased me even more.
Ten bottles remain.

2014 Idlewild, Grenache Gris Gibson Ranch - looks like a rose but tastes like a light red; has developed considerable complexity and it’s fruit has shaded darker - think black cherry not Bing - lots of savory almost smoky notes and good grip. I don’t know how many cases of this I’ve drunk but it continually improves. Expressive, complex and, as always, a pleasure to drink.

2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Montee de Tonnerre - beginning to close; some lactic notes give evidence that either time in the cellar or the decanter are needed. As it opens the density and acidity fit together gradually and the minerality dances at the edges. Drunk along side pasta with broccoli and chicken, it shined. Once it opens it has the depth but not the length, yet.
Considering the showing of the 2017 grand cru noted above, it’s clear that we caught that one in its baby stage and this one in puberty.
Hold.

Best, jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Impressions 11-2-21
Wine impressions 11-2-21

After some (too much) time apart, the contents of my cellar and I have been reunited here in the high country of NC - these are the tales of that glorious moment and several that followed.

Congrats!

2007 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - never released and the first wine I made. Syrah that is fruit driven (albeit, not sweet), balanced, integrated and with small accents of secondary development. Will not be confused with anything from the old world but is not over-oaked, over-sweet or alcoholic and, in fact, is attractive in its own dark fruited, savory way. Has not fallen off at all and clearly has time left.
While this isn’t the style I settled on, the wine is sound, expressive and in no way faded or over-done. At 14, it pleases me.
As the night progressed it pleased me even more.
Ten bottles remain.

Hmmm... kinda sounds like an ESJ Syrah: New World but non-spoofy, nearly immortal

[/quote]
 
Jim, I envy your return to the Grandfather/Hound Ears area. Hope you got there in time to see the leaves.

Surprised to see such favorable comments on the Idlewild Grenache. I guess I mistakenly recall you offering a pretty strong personal indictment against grenache.

And indeed, your high praise of both of the Louis Michel Chablis is well founded.

. . . . . . . Pete
 
Pete,
I have little use for Grenache but Grenache Gris is a different animal and this one, from Gibson Ranch (very old vines), is nothing like that “other” grape. Even so, there are exceptions to my “Grenache sucks” rule, albeit few. A Tribute to Grace out of Santa Barbara comes to mind, etc.

Jeff,
Everything has its time, I guess. I am pleased to still be around to follow this wine.
Although I made the wine, I was all but clueless in the doing. I did what others told me and what I guessed was right and, 14 years later, I sound like I knew it all the time.
I didn’t.
The fruit was good when it came in, we were clean and diligent in the making, I chose a 13 year old barrel for elevage (there was only one) and I watched over it like I did my infant daughter. But I was a complete novice, trying hard without experience or knowledge and, quite frankly, got lucky.
If it had been terrible, I would not have tried again and would have saved some money.
But I would have lost a decade of fun, relationships and learning.
So, truth is, I got really lucky.
And, if you happen to visit with the mountains of NC or the west coast of FL, we’ll open one together and I’ll tell you a tale of how innocent passion turned to complete joy.

Best, jim
 
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