It's been a minute and thing shave been busy for various reasons in the VLM household (turns out it is a busy time to be a statistician working in infectious disease). Anyway, we've been eating and drinking well and thankful for the privilege. As I age, the memory isn't what it was so when looking for a bottle to drink I can find a record of consumption in CT but sometimes I don't exactly remember it without a few words to jog the memory. So here are some more impressions. I hope both that these are of some value and that I can keep up with it.
2006 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/2/2021)
At once virile and a bit sedate. Well into savory territory but with some leathery fruit and herbs. Resolved enough in structure to be really delicious but I imagine there will always be a line of tannin down the middle. Ready to go now and great with grilled ribeye covered in EVOO, rosemary, garlic and sea salt. (93 points)
2015 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/2/2021)
A nice juxtaposition to the 2006 as this is, in some ways, a younger version. I really like the savory, gamy notes that surround the fruit here and I can see where it could end up just like the 2006. It may have an extra gear of fruit, however. I think these traditionally made CCRs from 2015 are going to really surprise folks. It's certainly approachable now with the right food but will be even better with 3-5 more years in bottle. (92 points)
2017 Weingut Beurer Stettener Schilfsandstein Riesling trocken - Germany, Württemberg (11/3/2021)
Dry and bracing Riesling with some more savory type notes that maybe come from the limestone. Not about fruit at all. Other bottles have shown better, I don't think I did it any favors with the food pairing. (89 points)
2017 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (11/5/2021)
I didn't have super high expectations for this but this bottle was all sorts of fun. Plenty of sapid Barbera berry fruit with just the right amount of savory notes here and there. No alcoholic imbalance or heat, which I expected given other recent bottles of Conterno Barbera (from both vineyards). I'm going to go ahead and start laying into these. Strike while the iron is hot. (93 points)
2017 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/5/2021)
Straight over the plate traditional CC. Will be in the rotation. Will probably be better with a couple of years to soften. The only issue is whether it is different enough from Caparsa to warrant the cellar space. (89 points)
2014 Thomas Perseval Champagne "Grande Cuvée" Extra Brut - France, Champagne (11/5/2021)
It's been a long time since I've had these Champagnes. Uncompromisingly dry but with a great mouthfeel due to the silky mousse. Not as many fruit notes as I would have thought but not really brioche either. We didn't have this with food, which was a mistake I'll remedy with the next bottle. (90 points)
2017 Monteraponi Chianti Classico Baron' Ugo - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/5/2021)
This was a surprising bottle. I haven't had this particular cuvée in years and remember it as being on the modern side (maybe an erroneous memory). This bottle was really well balanced and complex with pure Sangiovese fruit and all the other notes one expects. A surprising elegance. Young and sure to grow, but very good right now. (92 points)
2017 Proprietà Sperino Uvaggio - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (11/5/2021)
Quite good and well balanced but a bit lacking in excitement compared to other wines in the price range from the Alto Piedmont. Feels a bit safe. I'd be happy with it in a restaurant, but I'm not quite convinced. (89 points)
2009 Domaine du Meix-Foulot Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Ch“teau de Montaigu - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru (11/6/2021)
From magnum. Resolved enough to show well. Red berry and pitted fruits underpinned by a real earthiness. A bit of rusticity, too. Seems like the kind of wine that could really surprise with a bit more age. I'll try to give my last magnum 7-10 years if I can. (92 points)
2016 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (11/7/2021)
Another great vintage of this wine and it can be enjoyed now or will age as long as you need it to. The usual kind of wild tropical notes on the side with more Chardonnay specific fruit down the middle. Real density and the mineral finish has a zip of ginger, which is cool. (92 points)
2018 Monteraponi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/8/2021)
Another very good vintage of this house favorite. Somehow, I missed the 2017 vintage so as the 2016 runs out we're going to head into the 2018. Could use a bit more time to come together but is approachable now. Has that Radda elegance that serves it well. (91 points)
2017 Hobo Wine Company Aglianico Branham Vineyard Rockpile - USA, California, Sonoma County, Rockpile (11/8/2021)
Tangy, brooding Aglianico. More like a Basque red than something from Campania/Basilicata. Sappy fruit with earthy, big tannins. Because it's Hobo, the alcohol is low and the wine is bright. Delightful at the table but a bit chewy on its own. (90 points)
2012 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (11/9/2021)
Still tight. Lots of Chambolle lacy red fruit sitting on the chalky structure but still rather clenched as if enclosed in a crystal case. The recorked bottle sitting in the cellar showed positive movement two days later so there is hope for the future but I still don't think I understand these wines as much as I thought I did. (89 points)
2006 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/2/2021)
At once virile and a bit sedate. Well into savory territory but with some leathery fruit and herbs. Resolved enough in structure to be really delicious but I imagine there will always be a line of tannin down the middle. Ready to go now and great with grilled ribeye covered in EVOO, rosemary, garlic and sea salt. (93 points)
2015 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/2/2021)
A nice juxtaposition to the 2006 as this is, in some ways, a younger version. I really like the savory, gamy notes that surround the fruit here and I can see where it could end up just like the 2006. It may have an extra gear of fruit, however. I think these traditionally made CCRs from 2015 are going to really surprise folks. It's certainly approachable now with the right food but will be even better with 3-5 more years in bottle. (92 points)
2017 Weingut Beurer Stettener Schilfsandstein Riesling trocken - Germany, Württemberg (11/3/2021)
Dry and bracing Riesling with some more savory type notes that maybe come from the limestone. Not about fruit at all. Other bottles have shown better, I don't think I did it any favors with the food pairing. (89 points)
2017 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cerretta - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (11/5/2021)
I didn't have super high expectations for this but this bottle was all sorts of fun. Plenty of sapid Barbera berry fruit with just the right amount of savory notes here and there. No alcoholic imbalance or heat, which I expected given other recent bottles of Conterno Barbera (from both vineyards). I'm going to go ahead and start laying into these. Strike while the iron is hot. (93 points)
2017 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/5/2021)
Straight over the plate traditional CC. Will be in the rotation. Will probably be better with a couple of years to soften. The only issue is whether it is different enough from Caparsa to warrant the cellar space. (89 points)
2014 Thomas Perseval Champagne "Grande Cuvée" Extra Brut - France, Champagne (11/5/2021)
It's been a long time since I've had these Champagnes. Uncompromisingly dry but with a great mouthfeel due to the silky mousse. Not as many fruit notes as I would have thought but not really brioche either. We didn't have this with food, which was a mistake I'll remedy with the next bottle. (90 points)
2017 Monteraponi Chianti Classico Baron' Ugo - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/5/2021)
This was a surprising bottle. I haven't had this particular cuvée in years and remember it as being on the modern side (maybe an erroneous memory). This bottle was really well balanced and complex with pure Sangiovese fruit and all the other notes one expects. A surprising elegance. Young and sure to grow, but very good right now. (92 points)
2017 Proprietà Sperino Uvaggio - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (11/5/2021)
Quite good and well balanced but a bit lacking in excitement compared to other wines in the price range from the Alto Piedmont. Feels a bit safe. I'd be happy with it in a restaurant, but I'm not quite convinced. (89 points)
2009 Domaine du Meix-Foulot Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Ch“teau de Montaigu - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru (11/6/2021)
From magnum. Resolved enough to show well. Red berry and pitted fruits underpinned by a real earthiness. A bit of rusticity, too. Seems like the kind of wine that could really surprise with a bit more age. I'll try to give my last magnum 7-10 years if I can. (92 points)
2016 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (11/7/2021)
Another great vintage of this wine and it can be enjoyed now or will age as long as you need it to. The usual kind of wild tropical notes on the side with more Chardonnay specific fruit down the middle. Real density and the mineral finish has a zip of ginger, which is cool. (92 points)
2018 Monteraponi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/8/2021)
Another very good vintage of this house favorite. Somehow, I missed the 2017 vintage so as the 2016 runs out we're going to head into the 2018. Could use a bit more time to come together but is approachable now. Has that Radda elegance that serves it well. (91 points)
2017 Hobo Wine Company Aglianico Branham Vineyard Rockpile - USA, California, Sonoma County, Rockpile (11/8/2021)
Tangy, brooding Aglianico. More like a Basque red than something from Campania/Basilicata. Sappy fruit with earthy, big tannins. Because it's Hobo, the alcohol is low and the wine is bright. Delightful at the table but a bit chewy on its own. (90 points)
2012 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (11/9/2021)
Still tight. Lots of Chambolle lacy red fruit sitting on the chalky structure but still rather clenched as if enclosed in a crystal case. The recorked bottle sitting in the cellar showed positive movement two days later so there is hope for the future but I still don't think I understand these wines as much as I thought I did. (89 points)
