When Gianfranco Soldera passed a few years ago, a friend bought a couple bottles because he hadn't experienced the wine. Last evening we finally gathered to drink one:
2008 Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blanc Cuvee Louis: I hardly ever drink tete de cuvee wines from the large Champagne houses, so my views are pretty uninformed. That said, I quite liked this in its style. Substantial dosage, you can feel the extra mid-palate richness. It could be a crowd pleaser now (even among many grower fans), but someone said this wine would really improve with aging, and I see that. I'm not a buyer, but glad to drink it.
1994 Ludovisi Fiorano Bianco: This was the Malvasia and Semillon blend. The Malvasia takes on oxidative qualities with age, and if you like that lane then this is a really wonderful wine. The Semillon provides an interesting counterpoint, and the wine really does benefit from the combination. (I like the straight Semillon from Ludovisi too.) A wine that is totally ready to drink, but should maintain for decades.
2009 Benanti Pietramarina: It's my understanding that the vineyard source on this wine changed, some time after this vintage. I've enjoyed a few older Pietramarinas over the years, but this bottle was the most memorable. Had that great quality of substance and depth paired with lightness of being. Rich but not ponderous, and also refreshing. Really exceptional.
2009 Soldera Sangiovese Toscana: The Brunello was bottled under this label in 2009. The wine has a stem-driven character, in a very good way. Lighter bodied and lighter colored, but with incredible palate depth and complexity. I dislike comparing everything to Burgundy, but here I go again: The wine has lots of commonalities with a good bottle of Dujac. Not in flavors, but in approach and personality. The nose will have fireworks, but isn't there yet. If I had a bottle, I'd squirrel it away for another decade. A privilege to drink.
2001 Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino: Drunk next to the Soldera, which is tough. This wine was far darker and richer in body, despite being eight years older. The pairing almost made the Salvioni seem heavy handed and ponderous, which was not at all the case. This wine has a long time to go, and is an exceptional traditional Brunello. One of those wines that would appeal to lots of people, although it's special enough to warrant discrete attention.
1999 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino: Some folks thought this bottle was a little off, but I didn't get that. I thought it was a traditional, somewhat lighter styled Brunello from a warmer vintage that has just moved past its peak. I'm a big fan of Poggio di Sotto and the wine had much of what I appreciate about the domaine -- red fruited transparency, but with earthy, herbaceous depth. If this bottle was representative, not a wine to hold.
1999 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino: I stay away from modern-styled Brunello, but this was an interesting counterpoint. Drank much younger than the Poggio di Sotto, but not in a way that was interesting. The wine tasted essentially unevolved. Blind, I'd have guessed less than 10 years old. I'd be surprised if the wine ever becomes really interesting. Sort of international in style.