Bollinger PN VZ 15
A friend who likes his champagnes rich brought this to dinner, as he has several times in recent years. Like him, I tend to prefer BdN to BdB but this was pushing it. Maybe it was the vintage, maybe it was the high proportion of reserve wines, but this felt rich and round and almost sweet. It wasn't without tension, but there wasn't quite enough of it. It's certainly expressive and approachable, and I didn't get the sense that this was a poor showing, so maybe a combination of the vintage and house style and the pressure of being the first of a new bottling.
Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle Musigny 1er Les Charmes 2009
Opened 5-6 hours ahead but not decanted.
In a happy place and for my palate totally ready. I wonder if a few more years will tone down the sweetness of the 09 fruit, but it's developed around the fruit and was long and elegant and didn't feel weighed down. I've been finding most Chambolle too dark for my taste, especially at the price, but this was an exception, red more than black, sous bois more than mud.
Dönnhoff Niederhaüser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2002
From 375. Initially youthful, perhaps frustratingly so. It takes about half an hour to come into its own. Complex, integrated, honey and wax from a million different hives, why wait?
A friend who likes his champagnes rich brought this to dinner, as he has several times in recent years. Like him, I tend to prefer BdN to BdB but this was pushing it. Maybe it was the vintage, maybe it was the high proportion of reserve wines, but this felt rich and round and almost sweet. It wasn't without tension, but there wasn't quite enough of it. It's certainly expressive and approachable, and I didn't get the sense that this was a poor showing, so maybe a combination of the vintage and house style and the pressure of being the first of a new bottling.
Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle Musigny 1er Les Charmes 2009
Opened 5-6 hours ahead but not decanted.
In a happy place and for my palate totally ready. I wonder if a few more years will tone down the sweetness of the 09 fruit, but it's developed around the fruit and was long and elegant and didn't feel weighed down. I've been finding most Chambolle too dark for my taste, especially at the price, but this was an exception, red more than black, sous bois more than mud.
Dönnhoff Niederhaüser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2002
From 375. Initially youthful, perhaps frustratingly so. It takes about half an hour to come into its own. Complex, integrated, honey and wax from a million different hives, why wait?