Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don+Melissa, Jay+Arnold, Jayson, Jeff, Brad
Finally, the hardcore NY geeks are comfortable enough with the state of the pandemic to jeeb. Sure, there have been jeebs here and there, typically at restaurants with lots of space, or an exurban patio. But this is indoors, like the old days. Grand Cru. Brad offers to make a spring risotto (asparagus, shrimp, bacon) and roast a couple of chickens; we fill-in around the big plates with bread, cheese, dessert, and other nibbles.
It is good to get the gang back together. We catch up on matters big and small... Don is on the brink of retirement, Arnold hurt his arm at work, Melissa is recovering from ear surgery, Jayson just won his patent case in Texas (as counsel for the plaintiff), and, alas, Jay still pretends to like sherry.
Already open on the table when I arrive is Francois Cazin 2018 Cour-Cheverny "Vendanges Manuelles", 15% (ouch!) and shows every bit of it, a big sweet wine on entry but then dissolves into scratchy fumes, which is a terrible shame because the wine is full and fragrant. Can someone loan Francois some de-alcoholizing green papaya salad? Thank you.
We finally settle into our seats and pass the plates. The risotto is perfect: the rice is toothsome, the sauce is rich with cheese and rice exudate and a hit of lemon zest, asparagus segments are crisp, bacon is low-key, and shrimp are tender. The roast chickens -- with chopped veggies cooked underneath the birds -- are one of Brad's signature dishes and these are fine specimens, crispy skin, juicy meat, and seasoned to marry well with the liquid refreshments.
Speaking of which:
Francois Chidaine 2019 VdF "Clos Baudoin" - This is beautiful, medium weight, aromatic now but hinting at more that will come in time, even now there is a bit of wax, this is a good match with the sardine nibbles.
Sun Break Cider NV? Heritage Style Cider "Gravenstein Gold" - 7.4%, 30% gravenstein + 30% gold russet + pears + bittering apples. I think Jay said he had to buy this in order to buy the wine, or maybe it's the other way around. The pears make themselves known by their gentle acidity, sweetness, and a delicacy of texture. Not particularly fermenty. Worth the time to appreciate.
Sun Break Wines 2019 Pinot Noir "Colette" - "That's for the chicken." -Jay. Now, you tell me? It's mostly recognizable as Oregon p.n.: good acidity, cherry fruit, is there some cola?, anyway it's nice enough
Hermann Ludes 2020 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Kabinett "Monster" - 3 560 027 6 21, 8%, light and airy (as a lot of 2020 kabi seems to be), it's deeper-pitched than lime though not so far as apricot, good and nimble structure plus the long finish is a good sign.
Brundlmayer 2018 Ried Zobinger Heligenstein 1er "Alte Reben" - a big boy and not at all happy to be opened now, there's so much stuffing and phenolic material here yet it's all so tight. Hold, for goodness sake.
Pinon 1964 Vouvray Demi-Sec - A gorgeous bottle, sweet but not as sweet as "demi-sec" might suggest, more beautiful than vigorous, "a hint of cinnamon spice in the finish" -Jayson, this is wine worthy of a Grand Cru jeebus.
Maison Stephan 2019 Cote-Rotie "Les Binardes" - Made with 10% viognier and wow what a nose, so forward, so friendly, so potent. There is a definite note of rosemary mixed with the perfume that filigrees the forest berry syrah. Great wine.
Huet 1957 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos du Bourg" - This is the real deal: juicy acidity, the sweetness has receded quite a lot, "Liquid granite" -Jay, the wine is seamless and complete. Clos du Bourg is known for its power and ageability, and this wine is still not showing tertiary flavors... it is still busy harmonizing what the vine and the Huet family gave it.
Faurie 2007 Hermitage "Bessards/Meal" - Hand-carry from the Marche Aux Vins, this is full and strong, black cherry and rosemary and damp earth, the texture is quite heavy but not leaden, the wine is in its plateau so drink and hold.
Laurel Glen 2016 "Counterpoint" Cabernet Sauvignon - 14.6%, Sonoma fruit, someone got a little lost
Dominique Ansel 2022 Chocolate-Covered Pistachio Matzoh - Not a drink, just in case you confuse easily. As this silly confection goes, this was pretty good.
Donnhoff 2010 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese - 7 753 010 16 11, the acidity and fruit and 'stuffing' have had time to come together, this is a lighter package than the Huet with glimmers of slate and botrytis.
A few pix, courtesy of Brad's FB posting:
Finally, the hardcore NY geeks are comfortable enough with the state of the pandemic to jeeb. Sure, there have been jeebs here and there, typically at restaurants with lots of space, or an exurban patio. But this is indoors, like the old days. Grand Cru. Brad offers to make a spring risotto (asparagus, shrimp, bacon) and roast a couple of chickens; we fill-in around the big plates with bread, cheese, dessert, and other nibbles.
It is good to get the gang back together. We catch up on matters big and small... Don is on the brink of retirement, Arnold hurt his arm at work, Melissa is recovering from ear surgery, Jayson just won his patent case in Texas (as counsel for the plaintiff), and, alas, Jay still pretends to like sherry.
Already open on the table when I arrive is Francois Cazin 2018 Cour-Cheverny "Vendanges Manuelles", 15% (ouch!) and shows every bit of it, a big sweet wine on entry but then dissolves into scratchy fumes, which is a terrible shame because the wine is full and fragrant. Can someone loan Francois some de-alcoholizing green papaya salad? Thank you.
We finally settle into our seats and pass the plates. The risotto is perfect: the rice is toothsome, the sauce is rich with cheese and rice exudate and a hit of lemon zest, asparagus segments are crisp, bacon is low-key, and shrimp are tender. The roast chickens -- with chopped veggies cooked underneath the birds -- are one of Brad's signature dishes and these are fine specimens, crispy skin, juicy meat, and seasoned to marry well with the liquid refreshments.
Speaking of which:
Francois Chidaine 2019 VdF "Clos Baudoin" - This is beautiful, medium weight, aromatic now but hinting at more that will come in time, even now there is a bit of wax, this is a good match with the sardine nibbles.
Sun Break Cider NV? Heritage Style Cider "Gravenstein Gold" - 7.4%, 30% gravenstein + 30% gold russet + pears + bittering apples. I think Jay said he had to buy this in order to buy the wine, or maybe it's the other way around. The pears make themselves known by their gentle acidity, sweetness, and a delicacy of texture. Not particularly fermenty. Worth the time to appreciate.
Sun Break Wines 2019 Pinot Noir "Colette" - "That's for the chicken." -Jay. Now, you tell me? It's mostly recognizable as Oregon p.n.: good acidity, cherry fruit, is there some cola?, anyway it's nice enough
Hermann Ludes 2020 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Kabinett "Monster" - 3 560 027 6 21, 8%, light and airy (as a lot of 2020 kabi seems to be), it's deeper-pitched than lime though not so far as apricot, good and nimble structure plus the long finish is a good sign.
Brundlmayer 2018 Ried Zobinger Heligenstein 1er "Alte Reben" - a big boy and not at all happy to be opened now, there's so much stuffing and phenolic material here yet it's all so tight. Hold, for goodness sake.
Pinon 1964 Vouvray Demi-Sec - A gorgeous bottle, sweet but not as sweet as "demi-sec" might suggest, more beautiful than vigorous, "a hint of cinnamon spice in the finish" -Jayson, this is wine worthy of a Grand Cru jeebus.
Maison Stephan 2019 Cote-Rotie "Les Binardes" - Made with 10% viognier and wow what a nose, so forward, so friendly, so potent. There is a definite note of rosemary mixed with the perfume that filigrees the forest berry syrah. Great wine.
Huet 1957 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos du Bourg" - This is the real deal: juicy acidity, the sweetness has receded quite a lot, "Liquid granite" -Jay, the wine is seamless and complete. Clos du Bourg is known for its power and ageability, and this wine is still not showing tertiary flavors... it is still busy harmonizing what the vine and the Huet family gave it.
Faurie 2007 Hermitage "Bessards/Meal" - Hand-carry from the Marche Aux Vins, this is full and strong, black cherry and rosemary and damp earth, the texture is quite heavy but not leaden, the wine is in its plateau so drink and hold.
Laurel Glen 2016 "Counterpoint" Cabernet Sauvignon - 14.6%, Sonoma fruit, someone got a little lost
Dominique Ansel 2022 Chocolate-Covered Pistachio Matzoh - Not a drink, just in case you confuse easily. As this silly confection goes, this was pretty good.
Donnhoff 2010 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese - 7 753 010 16 11, the acidity and fruit and 'stuffing' have had time to come together, this is a lighter package than the Huet with glimmers of slate and botrytis.
A few pix, courtesy of Brad's FB posting:
