TN: The Birthday Jeebus (June 4, 2022)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad(+Dad+Ellie), Chris, Don+Melissa(+Don'sBrother+Melissa'sMom), Jay, Jayson+Laura+Sammy, Jeff+Jim, Sasha

"Tell the doorman you’re visiting Sandy Roche in the North Penthouse." -- This is the kind of instruction you really want to hear when someone has planned a jeebus for you. Indeed, Melissa's Mom has a fabulous venue on Central Park West and we have a perfect day to jeeb there (as we have once before).

This is the first time since COVID that we've held the Birthday Jeebus so some of us have two years' experience with our round-number day. So it goes.

We all take a home COVID test before arriving.

Not so many of us attend as last time but, still, the dining room table is loaded with food: heaps of roast chicken, black bean and corn salsa, a huge Greek salad, crispy roast pork belly, fennel and butternut gratin, numerous breads and cheeses and sliced pork products, wonderful almond cake, a delicate strawberry-rhubarb tart, and more.

We take our wines outside, and you can see why:
IMG_4074_sm.jpg


Fairly fast notes, taken while walking around, scribbling on a couple sheets of looseleaf:

Louis Roederer 2008 Champagne Brut "Cristal" - good acidity, bright, cheerful, maybe slightly underripe?, despite its reputation not a socks-knocking-off wine

Marc Hebrart NV Champagne Brut Rose 1er - disg. 16-Mar-2021, but this is beautiful, zingy with lots of those little wild strawberries, a hint of sweetness, great cup

Lapierre 2009 Morgon - "S", beautiful, slowly easing into its tertiary phase of flavors, waxy, just starting to thin on the mid-palate which enhances its charm, reminds Jay of the bottle I served earlier this year

Texier 2010 Cotes-du-Rhone "Brezeme" VV (Dom Pergaud) - immediately: rather quiet, did I do a bad thing by disturbing it?; later: bottle is just fine, it has come out to play and it is Northern Rhone syrah in fine form, blue fruit, unobtrusive acids, gentle tannins, terrific bottle; (Next day: sailing along, same, good with my Swiss steaks and fennel gratin)

Mugneret-Gibourg 2018 Vosne-Romanee - terrific nose, smells like Vosne, but overwhelming on the palate, so intense and heavy, reminds me of a cola-fied Sonoma pinot noir, this might settle down with a few years but, for now, approach with caution

Mugneret-Gibourg 2019 Vosne-Romanee - another enticing bouquet, but this is more friendly to drink: juicy, face-powder, a bit of old lady's handkerchief

Clos Roche Blanche 2012 Touraine "L'Arpent Rouge" - tarragon, licorice, "a wine that makes me smile uncontrollably" -Jay, I don't sense the usual pink peppercorn/cement dust thing but instead there is a bare hint of strawberries and balsamic; (Next day: mostly the same but the nose is more floral and the mouth is more grippy, what great wine!)

O. Raffault 1983 Chinon "Les Picasses" - fennel seed tints the edges of this elegant red-fruited wine, a real pleasure to drink

Ch. Magdelaine 1970 St.-Emilion GC - softly simmered cherries, long, warm, fully resolved, entrancing

Dom. des Douveliers 1983 Vouvray Demi-Sec - "staves", the sulfur reported earlier has disappeared, the acidity is no longer spiky but pleasantly prominent, and the body is very light, as is the sweetness, to judge by this bottle it's day is done

Huet 1995 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos du Bourg" - golden, gorgeous, the palate is youthful and full of green grapes and a gentle sweetness, there is a streak of bitterness that offsets it all and keeps it interesting; (Next day: orange blossom and saffron, sufficient acidity to hold it all together)

Huet 1967 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Le Haut Lieu" - Brad's birth-year wine; deeper than the 1995, a little more acidity, a little longer on the finish

Huet 2020 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos du Bourg" - for a young wine this is quite rich and suave (and rather sweet), nice

Huet 1953 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Le Mont" - rich and full, strong saffron nose, still nearly Sauternes-intensity sweetness but tingly and mesmerizing

Ch. Guiraud 1962 Sauternes - classic: oaky, sweet, time has tucked its corners gently under, a pleasure with the almond cake

Pinon 1996 Vouvray Moelleux "1er Trie" - compared to the last two heavyweights this is rather easy to drink, rather sweet still, very pretty, has the Pinon taste of honey that is somehow always there for me

Happy Birthday to all the late Spring/early Summer boys and girls!
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
"Tell the doorman you’re visiting Sandy Roche in the North Penthouse." -- This is the kind of instruction you really want to hear when someone has planned a jeebus for you. Indeed, Melissa's Mom has a fabulous venue on Central Park West and we have a perfect day to jeeb there (as we have once before).

I saw Jayson's IG post. Very nice digs, indeed! Happy Birthday to all.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Louis Roederer 2008 Champagne Brut "Cristal" - good acidity, bright, cheerful, maybe slightly underripe?, despite its reputation not a socks-knocking-off wine

Yeah, I've posted on my relative [shrug] over these wines. I still have a few bottles to see what happens and also things like Cristal are good to have around to open for certain types of people.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Texier 2010 Cotes-du-Rhone "Brezeme" VV (Dom Pergaud) - immediately: rather quiet, did I do a bad thing by disturbing it?; later: bottle is just fine, it has come out to play and it is Northern Rhone syrah in fine form, blue fruit, unobtrusive acids, gentle tannins, terrific bottle; (Next day: sailing along, same, good with my Swiss steaks and fennel gratin)
My last bottle on 9/30/2020 was excellent with promise of more to come.

92 points: A concerning note prompted me open this with grilled lamb. I opened it (but didn't decant, don't worry Eric) around 5 for a 8 PM dinner. It's progressing along the line it seemed to be with my last bottle in 2018. A tapenade of dark plums and currants with briny olives with lifted notes of smoke and violets. All the things are still there to support a long evolution in bottle. The limestone really shows in the type of acids and the fine grained nature and shape of the wine. I imagine that this will always be a wine of some tension and not anything burly, I think it will become more stretched and refined. Another few years to soften and open should yield good results.
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originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Mugneret-Gibourg 2018 Vosne-Romanee - terrific nose, smells like Vosne, but overwhelming on the palate, so intense and heavy, reminds me of a cola-fied Sonoma pinot noir, this might settle down with a few years but, for now, approach with caution

Mugneret-Gibourg 2019 Vosne-Romanee - another enticing bouquet, but this is more friendly to drink: juicy, face-powder, a bit of old lady's handkerchief

Thanks for the notes. As bottles of this are scarce, I'll probably wait a few before digging in thanks.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Pinon 1996 Vouvray Moelleux "1er Trie" - compared to the last two heavyweights this is rather easy to drink, rather sweet still, very pretty, has the Pinon taste of honey that is somehow always there for me

We had a bottle of this the other day with seared foie gras and peaches sautéed in butter and Calvados. It was fantastic, the best bottle I've had in years (and maybe the best of the late release batch). I drank a bunch of this from the original release and it was really hard to detect RS because the acids drowned it out, but the floral notes were really amazing. It's now more honey and honeysuckle, showing a bit more sweetness but still impeccably balanced. What a great wine. I find that Huet Moëlleux from the same vintage, while good in its own right, can show a bit ponderous in comparison.
 
Jeff - I think you missed the 1983 Claude Pinon Demi Sec (I think it was demi?)

steely and ungiving early on it unfurled beautifully as the day progressed.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Jeff - I think you missed the 1983 Claude Pinon Demi Sec (I think it was demi?)

steely and ungiving early on it unfurled beautifully as the day progressed.
"Dom. des Douveliers" was Claude Pinon's domain.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Jeff - I think you missed the 1983 Claude Pinon Demi Sec (I think it was demi?)

steely and ungiving early on it unfurled beautifully as the day progressed.

I loved this and used the line Sasha used ages ago when talking about '96 Mosel Rieslings, "this is as far into S & M as I'll go!" Blistering acidity, but with just enough pure quince with a hint of passion fruit in sweetart form to make it very pleasurable. The funny thing is, while talking to Don I compared it to the regular '96 Cazin Cour-Cheverney I brought to Dougherty's back around '99 or '00 that Coad found too acidic. Lo and behold, when I checked the link Jeff provided above about the Pino-a-thon ten years ago, I had the same conversation with Don and said the same exact thing!

Thanks for taking notes, Jeff. Just a few differences. I found the '67 Huet pretty stunning. Balanced, with excellent fruit and balance. Just really complete. While a solid showing, I found the '53 to be a bit tired with more structure than fruit, old flavors and an intriguing coffee note.

I didn't find the '96 Pinon 1ere particularly sweet, but rather pure and racy. In fact, Coad's note from ten years ago that you linked to is still spot on. The '62 Guiraud, on the other hand, was still rich, mouth filling and sweet, but balanced. I didn't find the oak to stand out at all.

I found the '70 Magdelaine a disappointment. Not sure if the bottle hadn't seen some heat somewhere along the way, but it showed way past peak, imo. The '83 Olga Raffault was fine, but maybe steered a bit too far into the green side of things for my taste, but the Clos Roche Blanche was an absolute delight. I was very happy with how the '09 Lapierre Morgon showed, but was disappointed to return home with 2/3ds of the bottle. Folks missed out.

Even I liked the '08 Crystal and the biggest surprise of the night for me was how well that '95 Huet CDB Demi showed. Just a stellar bottle and I wish I had purchased some when it became available five to seven years ago. I remember a very disappointing bottle at Jay's right about the time there was a re-release and that made my decision.

Btw, a big thank you Melissa's mother, who once again allowed us the use of her wonderful apartment! It was wonderful to see the gang again!
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
While a solid showing, I found the '53 to be a bit tired with more structure than fruit, old flavors and an intriguing coffee note.
I think you have more experience with the older bottlings than I do.

The '62 Guiraud, on the other hand, was still rich, mouth filling and sweet, but balanced. I didn't find the oak to stand out at all.
I think I am more oak-aversive than you are.

I was very happy with how the '09 Lapierre Morgon showed, but was disappointed to return home with 2/3ds of the bottle. Folks missed out.
Agreed. I think folks were distracted by all the chenins. There were only a couple of good reds but quite a lot of good white/sweet.

...the biggest surprise of the night for me was how well that '95 Huet CDB Demi showed. Just a stellar bottle and I wish I had purchased some when it became available five to seven years ago. I remember a very disappointing bottle at Jay's right about the time there was a re-release and that made my decision.
I must not have been there that night because my personal TN archive has nothing but good things to say about '95 CdB Demi.

Btw, a big thank you Melissa's mother, who once again allowed us the use of her wonderful apartment! It was wonderful to see the gang again!
Indeed. And her stories about life in the building, stretching back to 1962, were also a great pleasure to hear.
 
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