Schrck 2007 Weissburgunder (Austria) White-out minerality, leaves, andparsnips? Thats a new thing for me, at least in a wine. Soft and easy, with a finish much shorter than it should be. No fruit as such, but the bare, calcifying exoskeleton of a wine, which has a certain but limited appeal. (12/08)
Hiedler 2007 Weissburgunder Maximum (Kamptal) Massive and ripe, yet despite the power and weight giving an impression of utter dryness (which impression may, for all I know, be false). An initially overwhelming avalanche of crushed bones is followed by mirrorball-faceted minerality, sparkling and pulsing. Decrescendos rapidly, but stunning while it lasts. The importer calls this the best pinot blanc in the world. Its not the finish needs to be longer for that but its certainly in the top rank. (12/08)
Schloss Gobelsburg 2007 Grner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) Generally round, yet pointed when it needs to be. Ripe, salted celery and mineral filings, with a rich texture akin to some sort of custard, yet sacrificing nothing in structure or balance. Finishes dryer than it seems to begin. Like drinking green sun from a glass. (12/08)
Hirsch 2007 Riesling Gaisberg (Zbing/Kamptal) Completely transparent right down to its iron core, though a thickening pear syrup eventually emerges. Very light, and tart, with that sugary element not yet integrated. I dont much care for it now, but I presume time will work some magic. (12/08)
Prieler 2007 Chardonnay Sinner (Burgenland) Melon, ripe and clean, with the aromatics of a big-fruited wine, but the acid balance and purity of a leaner expression of the grape. There are hints of banana (native rather than industrial), but rather than falling over into tropicality, the mineral lacings of this wine eventually tie it up in a fine bow. Alas, that chardonnay doesnt usually taste like this. (12/08)
Mller-Catoir 2007 Haardt Muskateller Kabinett Trocken 09 08 (Pfalz) Perfumed, of coursemostly orange blossomwith huge acidity and a lovely slosh of iron flakes. Rather huge for a muscat thats not fortified or otherwise enhanced, and absolutely stuffed with muscatty goodness. The finish is lengthy, which (again) isnt what one usually expects from the grape. Ive had a few muscats that were better than this, but only a few. (12/08)
Selbach-Oster 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 027 08 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Severely sweet to the point of imbalance, with only decent acidity vs. what it needs, and a thick, soupy pear finish. I am quite aware that my impression of this wine is unusual (and frankly its the first Selbach-Oster Ive disliked in a very, very long time), but unfortunately theres no replacement bottle available. Im burdening this note with such a lengthy caveat because Im strongly suspicious that this particular bottle is not representative of the wine. (12/08)
Selbach-Oster 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Sptlese 009 08 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Very dense. Makrut lime, green apple, pearand then dark, brooding coal underneath. A massive wine certainly much larger than a sptlese should probably be, but then thats the modern paradigm isnt it? but while its heavy, its balanced and long, and should age beautifully. (12/08)
Carl Schmitt-Wagner 2007 Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Sptlese Feinherb 03 08 (Mosel) Lightly petrol-skinned. Feels clean, round, and dry. Fairly insignificant now, but the finish is strikingly long and at a steady volume throughout, so there might be more here to find as the wine ages. Or maybe not. (12/08)
Spreitzer 2007 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett 028 08 (Rheingau) Tropical (guava, mango) and floral, counterpointed by a slightly sour yogurt aroma. Fair acidity. This wine makes a big, attention-getting announcement of its presence, but doesnt really follow through on the trumpeting. Its good, though, and the finish lingers for a little while. (12/08)
Spreitzer 2007 Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Sptlese 025 08 (Rheingau) Light petroleum and smoky coal (get some uranium in there, and this wine will have quite the power-generating capacity), plus sweet banana. Ripe, with great acidity (thankfully, since the wine is very sweet). The finish sorta lingers, but doesnt really develop. Still, theres a lot to like here. (12/08)
Koehler-Ruprecht 2002 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese 04 03 (Pfalz) Back up the diesel tank! Very light cream, with a texture that alternates between a gritty roughness and a down feather softness. Powerful at its metallic core. Sweet and intense, good fantastic acidity. The long finish leaves the minerality in exposed solitude. Very, very good. (12/08)
Sattler 2006 St. Laurent Reserve (Burgenland) Aromatic with crushed petals and leaves, beets, and herbs. Limpid yet intense, with a beautiful texture. However, theres also some butter and vanilla on the finish that doesnt integrate, with some bitterness (oak tannin, perhaps). The woods too present now, but the wine retains its promise. (12/08)
Hiedler 2007 Weissburgunder Maximum (Kamptal) Massive and ripe, yet despite the power and weight giving an impression of utter dryness (which impression may, for all I know, be false). An initially overwhelming avalanche of crushed bones is followed by mirrorball-faceted minerality, sparkling and pulsing. Decrescendos rapidly, but stunning while it lasts. The importer calls this the best pinot blanc in the world. Its not the finish needs to be longer for that but its certainly in the top rank. (12/08)
Schloss Gobelsburg 2007 Grner Veltliner Lamm (Kamptal) Generally round, yet pointed when it needs to be. Ripe, salted celery and mineral filings, with a rich texture akin to some sort of custard, yet sacrificing nothing in structure or balance. Finishes dryer than it seems to begin. Like drinking green sun from a glass. (12/08)
Hirsch 2007 Riesling Gaisberg (Zbing/Kamptal) Completely transparent right down to its iron core, though a thickening pear syrup eventually emerges. Very light, and tart, with that sugary element not yet integrated. I dont much care for it now, but I presume time will work some magic. (12/08)
Prieler 2007 Chardonnay Sinner (Burgenland) Melon, ripe and clean, with the aromatics of a big-fruited wine, but the acid balance and purity of a leaner expression of the grape. There are hints of banana (native rather than industrial), but rather than falling over into tropicality, the mineral lacings of this wine eventually tie it up in a fine bow. Alas, that chardonnay doesnt usually taste like this. (12/08)
Mller-Catoir 2007 Haardt Muskateller Kabinett Trocken 09 08 (Pfalz) Perfumed, of coursemostly orange blossomwith huge acidity and a lovely slosh of iron flakes. Rather huge for a muscat thats not fortified or otherwise enhanced, and absolutely stuffed with muscatty goodness. The finish is lengthy, which (again) isnt what one usually expects from the grape. Ive had a few muscats that were better than this, but only a few. (12/08)
Selbach-Oster 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 027 08 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Severely sweet to the point of imbalance, with only decent acidity vs. what it needs, and a thick, soupy pear finish. I am quite aware that my impression of this wine is unusual (and frankly its the first Selbach-Oster Ive disliked in a very, very long time), but unfortunately theres no replacement bottle available. Im burdening this note with such a lengthy caveat because Im strongly suspicious that this particular bottle is not representative of the wine. (12/08)
Selbach-Oster 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Sptlese 009 08 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Very dense. Makrut lime, green apple, pearand then dark, brooding coal underneath. A massive wine certainly much larger than a sptlese should probably be, but then thats the modern paradigm isnt it? but while its heavy, its balanced and long, and should age beautifully. (12/08)
Carl Schmitt-Wagner 2007 Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Sptlese Feinherb 03 08 (Mosel) Lightly petrol-skinned. Feels clean, round, and dry. Fairly insignificant now, but the finish is strikingly long and at a steady volume throughout, so there might be more here to find as the wine ages. Or maybe not. (12/08)
Spreitzer 2007 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett 028 08 (Rheingau) Tropical (guava, mango) and floral, counterpointed by a slightly sour yogurt aroma. Fair acidity. This wine makes a big, attention-getting announcement of its presence, but doesnt really follow through on the trumpeting. Its good, though, and the finish lingers for a little while. (12/08)
Spreitzer 2007 Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Sptlese 025 08 (Rheingau) Light petroleum and smoky coal (get some uranium in there, and this wine will have quite the power-generating capacity), plus sweet banana. Ripe, with great acidity (thankfully, since the wine is very sweet). The finish sorta lingers, but doesnt really develop. Still, theres a lot to like here. (12/08)
Koehler-Ruprecht 2002 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese 04 03 (Pfalz) Back up the diesel tank! Very light cream, with a texture that alternates between a gritty roughness and a down feather softness. Powerful at its metallic core. Sweet and intense, good fantastic acidity. The long finish leaves the minerality in exposed solitude. Very, very good. (12/08)
Sattler 2006 St. Laurent Reserve (Burgenland) Aromatic with crushed petals and leaves, beets, and herbs. Limpid yet intense, with a beautiful texture. However, theres also some butter and vanilla on the finish that doesnt integrate, with some bitterness (oak tannin, perhaps). The woods too present now, but the wine retains its promise. (12/08)