Premox

Much to unpack.

First, I'm not sure "subtle oxidative flavors becoming more obvious during a closed period" is a satisfactory explanation for wines that are burnt orange in color at age 4 and with oxidative flavors that are less like a piccolo solo and more like the Spinal Tap amp.

It is true, of course, that people have been observing oxidation in white Rhones (and saying it is a temporary phase) longer than anyone has ever so claimed in Burgundy (Claude's claim on this thread being the very first time I have *ever* seen the claim made as to Burgundy). It is also true that oxidized white Rhones and oxidized white Burgundies taste different. So the possibility remains that they are two different phenomena. Of course, oxidized Huet and oxidized white Burgundies also taste different, so that doesn't rule out that they are in fact part of the same phenomenon, either.

I'm confident I don't have nearly the same quantity of anecdotal data as Claude but given that age 11 was proffered as the state by which we can expect those previously nasty burnt-orange white Rhones to taste fresh again, I can certainly submit anecdotal data of bottles still being nasty, burnt orange, and oxidized at that point and well thereafter. Did I just need to wait longer? Were they premoxed? Simply bad wines? Is it a combination of factors (presumed "phase" obscuring data that would otherwise support premox diagnosis)? I actually don't have a strong opinion on the matter as to white Rhones and would not submit my experience as conclusive as to any explanation. I just have some Bayesian skepticism that a phenomenon not documented anywhere else (temporary oxidized phase) is a good explanation for observations documented almost everywhere else (nasty oxidized wine).

Obviously, however, my tangent into white Rhones proved a distraction and ruffled some feathers. So I'll just stipulate to some skeptical agnosticism on the matter and steer the car back to white Burgundy. If people are opening past poster-children for premoxed white Burgundy from the mid-'90s to mid-aughts and finding them fresh as a daisy now, please go ahead and post your data!

PS - Excuses for premox go back as long as premox itself. I can recall over the last two decades or so: "There's no premox, just random bad bottles"; "There's no premox in Europe, just bad provenance in the US"; "There's no premox, just wines that weren't ripe enough from day one" (thanks Pierre for that one); etc.; etc.; during which time white Burgundies have stubbornly refused to stop oxidizing, until put under Diam. We need fewer premox threads and more Diams.
 
I am sure I've told this story before. In December of 2015 at a wedding in Europe, I sommelier-ed my way through a solid case of a major 2005 1er Cru white burgundy (producer withheld from public forum to protect the innocent) that had been purchased at the Domaine on release and stored at 9C unmoved until aforementioned occasion. The variation among the 12 bottles was stunning, with the best bottles having barely aged while exhibiting epic length and grip. This was a rare opportunity; while I (and others in my presence) have occasionally reached out to excellent backup bottles of the same following a dud, an entire case from single outstanding provenance represents an entirely different level of statistical significance.

My question is this: if there is a model out there that brings bottles of white burgundy previously deemed premoxed back to excellence, then how the hell does the data point I've just described fit into that model?
 
Bayesian inference and the second law in one thead? Be still my beating heart. I knew there was a reason I read this bored.

Mark Lipton
(Bring on the recursion, baybee!)
 
originally posted by MLipton:
... Also, certain oxidation products ( sukfoxides and.disulfides) could be reduced by oxidizing tannins, many of which are oxidatively cross linked during polymerization.

Mark Lipton
Oenochenist at large

Chemistry for Dummies questions:

The 'certain oxidation products' (sulfoxides, etc.), after oxidation, subsequently accept electrons from the tannins undergoing oxidation? They become the reduction side of a downstream redox reaction?

Is this process (illustratively) part of a long-term evolution of short-term system diffusion equilibrium?

Cheers.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Bayesian inference and the second law in one thead? Be still my beating heart. I knew there was a reason I read this bored.

Mark Lipton
(Bring on the recursion, baybee!)

Well, I wouldn't call that Bayesian inference (which if there isn't an informative prior (and there almost never is) equates to frequentist random effects models) and I'm not exactly sure what Bayesian skepticism means.

The best explanation I've heard of the timing and cause of pre-mox is that it has a lot to do with changes in oxygen exposure during parts of the winemaking process (Jim's anecdote, Eric's previous posts, and the Judgement of Paris Montelena Chardonnay) in conjunction with the adoption of newer/gentler bladder presses. Some point to more battonage and corks as well, but battonage and corks were around before 1996 too.

As a consequence, I generally drink my wines younger and, as has been noted, I'm not even really sure I think that most wines really improve with significant age, they asymptote to a sameness. That's not to say that there can't be beauty in old wine but it's like Tom Blach would age village Burgundy to a fine British level of old and wouldn't bother with 1er and Grand Cru because it wasn't worth the premium.

I thought that 2002 Huet was the curse of the blue cork?
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by MLipton:
Bayesian inference and the second law in one thead? Be still my beating heart. I knew there was a reason I read this bored.

Mark Lipton
(Bring on the recursion, baybee!)
The best explanation I've heard of the timing and cause of pre-mox is that it has a lot to do with changes in oxygen exposure during parts of the winemaking process (Jim's anecdote, Eric's previous posts, and the Judgement of Paris Montelena Chardonnay) in conjunction with the adoption of newer/gentler bladder presses. Some point to more battonage and corks as well, but battonage and corks were around before 1996 too.
I am curious as to why no one generally mentions the lower levels of free SO2 used now vs. decades ago. Tasting young white wines used to be a very painful experience.

Also, has anyone experienced premox in Foreau Vouvray? He used more sulfur in the wines than Huet.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by MLipton:
Bayesian inference and the second law in one thead? Be still my beating heart. I knew there was a reason I read this bored.

Mark Lipton
(Bring on the recursion, baybee!)

Well, I wouldn't call that Bayesian inference (which if there isn't an informative prior (and there almost never is) equates to frequentist random effects models) and I'm not exactly sure what Bayesian skepticism means.

The best explanation I've heard of the timing and cause of pre-mox is that it has a lot to do with changes in oxygen exposure during parts of the winemaking process (Jim's anecdote, Eric's previous posts, and the Judgement of Paris Montelena Chardonnay) in conjunction with the adoption of newer/gentler bladder presses. Some point to more battonage and corks as well, but battonage and corks were around before 1996 too.

As a consequence, I generally drink my wines younger and, as has been noted, I'm not even really sure I think that most wines really improve with significant age, they asymptote to a sameness. That's not to say that there can't be beauty in old wine but it's like Tom Blach would age village Burgundy to a fine British level of old and wouldn't bother with 1er and Grand Cru because it wasn't worth the premium.

I thought that 2002 Huet was the curse of the blue cork?

The most important part of the controversial portion above is “I think” in the sentence phrase “I'm not even really sure I think that most wines really improve with significant age, they asymptote to a sameness.” That is surely (hopefully?) a view few of us here share with respect to a large swath of wines.
 
originally posted by VLM:
...I'm not exactly sure what Bayesian skepticism means.
Bayesian skepticism could be doubting the likelihood of some outcome, based on the low probabilities of the series of other events reguired before said outcome, no? I wonder if it works backwards too, i.e. skepticism towards the accuracy of estimated prior probabilities, based on some current outcome(s).

originally posted by VLM:
The best explanation I've heard of the timing and cause of pre-mox is that it has a lot to do with changes in oxygen exposure during parts of the winemaking process (Jim's anecdote, Eric's previous posts, and the Judgement of Paris Montelena Chardonnay) in conjunction with the adoption of newer/gentler bladder presses. Some point to more battonage and corks as well, but battonage and corks were around before 1996 too.
I'm pretty sure there's a fair amount of research on pre-fermentation oxygen exposure, from ancient days when Zelma Long was at Simi up to recent NZ research on interaction of mechanical harvesting, oxidation and flavor precursors (e.g. thiols). Maybe few or none of this research had premox in mind, but surely some of it could shed light on some of the hypotheses about premox. Chemistry folks, please chime in.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

The most important part of the controversial portion above is “I think” in the sentence phrase “I'm not even really sure I think that most wines really improve with significant age, they asymptote to a sameness.” That is surely (hopefully?) a view few of us here share with respect to a large swath of wines.

such are the joys of negation in english. i can't be teh only one who had to read this three times to be sure of its meaning ;p

assuming third time really is a charm, i think i agree. to my chubby palate, most wines asymptote to a sameness as soon as they are bottled. which is why i don't care about most wine. for teh hooch i do find interesting -- which historically, has included burgundy of both colors -- there often is no substitute for aging.

given the reality of premox -- and i agree with keith that poxed wines and shut down wines are easily distinguished, even if i don't agree with his verbal characterizaion of what this amounts to -- the only fancy white burgundies i drink these days are from 93 and earlier (which i prise from teh fingers of dead europeans); and i have long since begun to fear for the ability of recent reds to turn into teh hooch i am looking for.

thankfully, this being a winebored, someone will soon be along to tell me that teh wine swiller has never had it so good.

fb.
 
originally posted by fatboy:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

The most important part of the controversial portion above is “I think” in the sentence phrase “I'm not even really sure I think that most wines really improve with significant age, they asymptote to a sameness.” That is surely (hopefully?) a view few of us here share with respect to a large swath of wines.

such are the joys of negation in english. i can't be teh only one who had to read this three times to be sure of its meaning ;p

assuming third time really is a charm, i think i agree. to my chubby palate, most wines asymptote to a sameness as soon as they are bottled. which is why i don't care about most wine. for teh hooch i do find interesting -- which historically, has included burgundy of both colors -- there often is no substitute for aging.

given the reality of premox -- and i agree with keith that poxed wines and shut down wines are easily distinguished, even if i don't agree with his verbal characterizaion of what this amounts to -- the only fancy white burgundies i drink these days are from 93 and earlier (which i prise from teh fingers of dead europeans); and i have long since begun to fear for the ability of recent reds to turn into teh hooch i am looking for.

thankfully, this being a winebored, someone will soon be along to tell me that teh wine swiller has never had it so good.

fb.

I took VLM to mean even the narrower set of wines we might want to drink, and age, not the broad market that includes Meiomi and Box Wine. If I understand what the asymptote is here (itself a topic), I am consistently struck by the non-genericness of older bottles (not obviously including mountains of premox post-93 white Burg) and certainly not just the wines I cellar. It’s the generic ones where I think- this is not right, or this is disappointing. This positive experience of aging cuts across many regions. And sure, there are plenty of ones that asymptote too.
 
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