Jim Hanlon
Jim Hanlon
originally posted by Brad Widelock:
At some point, I realized that I would never be able to afford enough Burgundy to acquire the knowledge that I wanted about what it should, and should not taste like. It’s not that I have not drunk Burgundy, just not enough to feel confident with it. I began to think about how much knowledge is lost when the cost of studying something is out of reach. There is no public library of wine to borrow, study and learn from. I want to find a way to preserve and share the knowledge about wine that I see being lost every day, primarily due to cost. You can only learn so much from reading about wine. There is no substitute for tasting with someone who has more knowledge than you do about what is in the glass.
What we've lost are the pinnacles. Mortals can't drink DRC, d'Yquem, Haut Brion Blanc, etc. (Provocative: I don't consider Raveneau to be a pinnacle of Chablis. It's so atypical.). But with the means to spend up to $150 occasionally, one can get a sound Burgundy education. There's still lots to learn in the $30-$75 range, and you can get 90% of the way up the mountain at $150ish. And that's still a worthwhile view.
I've benefitted much from being in a Burgundy tasting group. We don't really have a member with an older collection, unfortunately, but we do have folks who bring expensive bottles. And every December we pool money and spend $2,500 or so on one or two bottles for our holiday dinner. It's enabled me to taste pretty broadly. One thing I've learned is that the Bourgogne level generally provides pretty sound insight into a house style, especially in a less solar vintage. If you missed the boat on Lignier premier cru being under $100, you can still taste what Lignier is like for $40 at the Bourgogne level, etc.
Bottom line for me is that the wine world is richer and more interesting today for American consumers than at any earlier point in history. Those lucky folks drinking Grand Cru Burgundy in the 60s didn't have access to, and had never even heard of, so many cool wines that enrich our lives today. If their knowledge and experience was a little deeper, it was also much narrower.