Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 8-15-22
2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - every bottle is better than the last and the first one was outstanding. I just can’t get enough of this wine.
2016 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Enz Vineyard - if you taste it by itself the tannin is evident; if you have it with food it resolves and shows more character driven with juicy fruit and depth. I still have two magnums of this that deserve more time but that initial impression I had, that the tannin would likely not resolve, was wrong.
2008 Cowan Cellars, Skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc - this spent minimal time in elevage and it kept the fruit more forward than the Isa bottlings which were this wine’s successors. But 14 years in bottle has allowed it to develop more complexity and a sort of poached pear flavor. Markedly more interesting and delicious than three years ago.
2017 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - the first bottle of this vintage that has shown open and ready. Typical BV boysenberry fruit but now with some layered earth and olive tones. Quite intense and is best with food.
2015 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - where the ‘17 is intense and powerful this is deft and graceful; still a mouthful of BV fruit but a lighter hand and a good bit more layered. Elegant and easy to drink even without food.
(Aside: the two preceding Syrahs were made from the same rows of fruit in exactly the same way. Discounting the two years of age, they are a lesson in vintage contrast.)
2021 Ameztoi, Rubentis - rose from the Basque country. While the clarity and cut is good there is an off vegetal scent/flavor very much like green pepper and fouls the wine. Poured it down the drain.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Clos- sure it’s early but this was surprisingly generous with excellent concentration and balance. Not giving all but giving plenty. Lovely wine.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - 100% skin-fermented; deep copper color; a quiet wine that emphasizes nuance over density, none of the phenolics of most orange wines but rather a soft, tangerine skin, brown spice kind of delivery with a light texture and a complex finish. I like this wine now more than I ever have but I have always liked it.
1995 Capri, Sagrantino 25 Anni - the last bottle of a case. At 27, this has become resolved and outstanding - after years of fierce tannins, and not much else, this is fully realized with plenty of trebles and midrange to balance with the dark power. A great wine now - and I say that without hesitation. But waiting 27 years is . . . daunting.
2018 Harrington, Sagrantino - this was served alongside the Capri and it was a clear lesson in terroir and experience. I still like this wine but it isn’t in the same world as the Italian version.
2019 Dom. Pepiere, Muscadet Clisson - decanted one hour and it made a difference; the intensity and precision here are at Grand Cru Chablis levels, the clarity and energy in the wine is exceptional and the finish is dynamic. I know this ages well but it will take a lot of discipline for my bottles to get there. Maybe the single most impressive white I’ve had this year.
Best, Jim
2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - every bottle is better than the last and the first one was outstanding. I just can’t get enough of this wine.
2016 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Enz Vineyard - if you taste it by itself the tannin is evident; if you have it with food it resolves and shows more character driven with juicy fruit and depth. I still have two magnums of this that deserve more time but that initial impression I had, that the tannin would likely not resolve, was wrong.
2008 Cowan Cellars, Skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc - this spent minimal time in elevage and it kept the fruit more forward than the Isa bottlings which were this wine’s successors. But 14 years in bottle has allowed it to develop more complexity and a sort of poached pear flavor. Markedly more interesting and delicious than three years ago.
2017 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - the first bottle of this vintage that has shown open and ready. Typical BV boysenberry fruit but now with some layered earth and olive tones. Quite intense and is best with food.
2015 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - where the ‘17 is intense and powerful this is deft and graceful; still a mouthful of BV fruit but a lighter hand and a good bit more layered. Elegant and easy to drink even without food.
(Aside: the two preceding Syrahs were made from the same rows of fruit in exactly the same way. Discounting the two years of age, they are a lesson in vintage contrast.)
2021 Ameztoi, Rubentis - rose from the Basque country. While the clarity and cut is good there is an off vegetal scent/flavor very much like green pepper and fouls the wine. Poured it down the drain.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Clos- sure it’s early but this was surprisingly generous with excellent concentration and balance. Not giving all but giving plenty. Lovely wine.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - 100% skin-fermented; deep copper color; a quiet wine that emphasizes nuance over density, none of the phenolics of most orange wines but rather a soft, tangerine skin, brown spice kind of delivery with a light texture and a complex finish. I like this wine now more than I ever have but I have always liked it.
1995 Capri, Sagrantino 25 Anni - the last bottle of a case. At 27, this has become resolved and outstanding - after years of fierce tannins, and not much else, this is fully realized with plenty of trebles and midrange to balance with the dark power. A great wine now - and I say that without hesitation. But waiting 27 years is . . . daunting.
2018 Harrington, Sagrantino - this was served alongside the Capri and it was a clear lesson in terroir and experience. I still like this wine but it isn’t in the same world as the Italian version.
2019 Dom. Pepiere, Muscadet Clisson - decanted one hour and it made a difference; the intensity and precision here are at Grand Cru Chablis levels, the clarity and energy in the wine is exceptional and the finish is dynamic. I know this ages well but it will take a lot of discipline for my bottles to get there. Maybe the single most impressive white I’ve had this year.
Best, Jim
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