TN: The Virtual Tasting #24 (August 25, 2022)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don + Melissa, Jay, Jayson, Jeff, Lisa, Seth, Victor, with guest visits by Eden, Isabelle, and Adira

Jayson and Lisa pouring. Theme: the Malbec wines of Montenegro.
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While Lisa sorts out some tech issues, we start on Jayson's offerings.

First up, the white malbec: "Lemony!" -Don, "Pineapple!" -Melissa, "Very waxy!" -Jay; there is widespread agreement that the wine has vigorous cut and a note of sweet pineapple (Seth later says it turns towards grapefruit with some air); we narrow it down to a US wine, at which point I guess it's sauvignon blanc from the Finger Lakes (wrong grape, right region); some folks love it and some are cool to it but we are all surprised at the reveal: Eminence Road 2018 Chardonnay, Lamb's Quarters Vineyard, 11.6%. Nobody would have picked this out as a chardonnay.
Day 2: about the same, maybe fading a bit now that it is exposed to air
Day 4: hints at beer

Next up, red malbec: Everybody calls out the fruity nose and youthful palate; the texture seems silty to me (unpleasant); Jayson calls out the finish as "grapey"; we were pretty good about guessing that the wine is from the Loire and from there it was easy to call the cepage (cot): La Grange Tiphaine 2019 Cot VV, 14% (real or just ducking the import duties?).
Day 2: still Exuberance-R-Us here
Day 4: drinking beautifully

Lisa has arrived, all caught up on the two beverages above, and now we start on her pours. We drink B before A because that is how the Fates their Gifts allot:

Wine B smells and tastes like a Loire cab franc to me, all dark fruit and a bit of shoe polish, but minus any green flavors (and that will turn out to be significant); anyway, cepage aside, this is a big ol' fruit bomb, a high quality one with "lavender-y aromatics" -Don, and Jay rapidly guesses CRB (correct!) but can't quite get which of the cabernet bottlings; that would be because it's also the cot: Clos Roche Blanche 1999 Touraine "Rouge Cot", 12%.
Day 2: beautiful fruit and composure that comes of age, a little funky however
Day 4: about the same, maybe more fragrant

Onward to the beginning: Wine A is delicious, at least three of us exclaim it practically at the same time; very floral, mid-weight, I get a whiff of chicken broth (yum!), however Jayson is off-put by the smell of dilly oak; I'm not so bothered by it but I agree that the bouquet is way better than the palate; back to the guessing... the wine is French so all the usual US and Spanish dilly oak lovers are out; Lisa says the wine is from the Languedoc and Don eventually names it: Ch. d'Oupia 1999 Minervois "Les Barons", 13%. A terrific vin de garde; hold these for a while longer.
Day 2: this is so yum
Day 4: good to the last drop

At this moment, Jayson and Lisa put on the gloves and, after three grueling rounds, Lisa gets the decision.

Lisa's Wine C is totally corked, old socks, chlorinated pool water, you name it, it's there. Alas, it was: Marechal 1999 Savigny-les-Beaunes VV

Wine D is lovely, another mid-weight wine with bright cherry flavors, Don immediately calls it for 1999 (he's caught on to Lisa's theme), and we pretty quickly guess the cepage (first guess: gamay, second guess: pinot noir) and, from that, that it's Burgundy; but where and who? We think it's Cote de Beaune but that's totally a guess. Lisa now reveals that her theme tonight was red wines of 1999 that were imported by Louis/Dressner. Nice but doesn't actually help us because we can't think of many Burgundy producers that LDM brought in... yeah, Marechal, one vintage of Fourrier, a vintage or two of Pavelot, and, um, er, ahem... so the reveal: Dom. Legros 1999 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er "Clos Sorbe", 13.5%.
Day 2: the cherries are fading

We continue now with Jayson's remaining two wines.

Wine 3 smells like Bordeaux (and it is); "Savory" -Jay, "Salty" -Don, "More red fruit than black fruit" -Jeff; Jay picks it as Right Bank and I pick it as Saint-Emilion (via faulty logic but it's what's in the guess, amirite?) and Jay sews it up as Ch. Magdelaine, though we do not guess the vintage: Ch. Magdelaine 1985 St-Emilion GC, 12.6%. This is drinking beautifully, at peak, and Jayson says that an hour of air will release more fruit on the palate.
Day 2: whatever the grown-up word for "yum" is... and I've done my bit for note-taking, I'm finishing this now

Finally, weighing in at 8.5%, we have Wine 4: "Gorgeous" -Jay, sweet, crisp, everyone loves it, it even receives the Arnold Seal of Approval; riesling, of course, German (yes), "Creamy" -Don, "A hint of petrol" -Seth, discussion is that the wine shows signs of maturity which in small doses, as here, add the petrol and cream and weight and serenity to the wine, but which in larger proportion would tend to make the wine generic and simply old; in a few minutes, Seth guesses Ludes (he's familiar with Jayson's recent purchases): Weingut Hermann Ludes 1994 Klusserather Bruderschaft Riesling Auslese, 3 560 027 4 96. "Really ripe stone fruit thing" -Jayson, the wine shows great intensity of peach and apricot but is hardly sweet at all, Jayson says this is an auslese with only 40g RS.

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As always, great to see everyone, share some time and some wine.
 
Some add'l tidbits that didn't fit in the story:
- Montenegro actually has two vine-growing regions, one by the coast and one upland. To my knowledge, however, they do not grow malbec. They do, however, have a considerable wine industry, for a small nation, raising a couple of local cultivars (esp. Vranac) and some of the usual international ones.
- My first guess on the sweet wine was "Italian?" because, although it was very riesling, it also reminded me strongly of Maculan Torcolato. Jayson was a little incredulous but, y'know, alleles.
- Yes, we know LDM also brought in Pacalet (which this definitely was not), Esmonin, Roally, and a few others. Without recourse to a stock list, however, none of us remembered Legros. (Even searching here turns up only two notes, neither particularly good.)

Next up is Virtual Tasting #25. I wonder if I have any 25-year-old wines in storage? Or, if I just let the cat out of the bag so now I need to do something else.... There's a lot of double-think in these things, knowing the wine because you know the person or guess the theme.
 
Thanks for these notes -- it's fun to enjoy the wines and camaraderie even second hand. I have one bottle of that 94 Ludes. Any upside remaining?
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
Thanks for these notes -- it's fun to enjoy the wines and camaraderie even second hand. I have one bottle of that 94 Ludes. Any upside remaining?
I think it will hold a while yet, but it's really pretty now so go for it.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
"(real or just ducking the import duties?)."

to avoid the trump tariff, the wine had to be above 14%.
Yes, we know. The point of the comment is to ask the Assembled Greybeards whether this is a statement of scientific fact or a statement of political reality (or neither).
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by robert ames:
"(real or just ducking the import duties?)."

to avoid the trump tariff, the wine had to be above 14%.
Yes, we know. The point of the comment is to ask the Assembled Greybeards whether this is a statement of scientific fact or a statement of political reality (or neither).

whether true or not, my point was that stating the abv to be 14% would not have prevented the tariff. to avoid the tariff it would have to have 14.1% or higher.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
Thanks for these notes -- it's fun to enjoy the wines and camaraderie even second hand. I have one bottle of that 94 Ludes. Any upside remaining?

I actually liked where it is. It’s possible it loses some of that primary fruit in a few years that is so attractive for a 28-year old wine that also has bottle development that shows texturally. You really won’t be disappointed in opening it. To the contrary, you may want to be alone.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by robert ames:
"(real or just ducking the import duties?)."

to avoid the trump tariff, the wine had to be above 14%.
Yes, we know. The point of the comment is to ask the Assembled Greybeards whether this is a statement of scientific fact or a statement of political reality (or neither).

whether true or not, my point was that stating the abv to be 14% would not have prevented the tariff. to avoid the tariff it would have to have 14.1% or higher.

I may have been responsible for suggesting 14% was the tipping point and Jeff was just parroting my error. I had remembered 14%.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by robert ames:
"(real or just ducking the import duties?)."

to avoid the trump tariff, the wine had to be above 14%.
Yes, we know. The point of the comment is to ask the Assembled Greybeards whether this is a statement of scientific fact or a statement of political reality (or neither).

whether true or not, my point was that stating the abv to be 14% would not have prevented the tariff. to avoid the tariff it would have to have 14.1% or higher.

I may have been responsible for suggesting 14% was the tipping point and Jeff was just parroting my error. I had remembered 14%.

the good news is that the trump tariff is gone, and that the euro has dropped to parity with the dollar. that's a solid 20% increase in value of the dollar in the last year. the combined effects of these two dynamics would portend a drop in prices of european wines 14% and less abv--but don't hold your breath.
 
Yeah. Don’t hold your breath. Sounds more like an opportunity to keep dollar price the same at best and extract more margin. That extra margin also gives some room to offer sales and move inventory down to the prior margin when Euro was about 10-15% stronger, but it’s highly unlikely a savings that will be passed to the consumer across the board in pricing. I think true demand issues are the only possibility to see an effect on wine pricing that is not just play/dabbling in the Fx joints.
 
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