Wine impressions 9-2-22

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
Wine impressions 9-2-22

2021 Cordero di Montezemolo, Arneis - Lange Arneis that’s hard to beat. Sappy, resinous, fruity, brisk and delicious. Yum.

2020 Navarro, Rose of Pinot Noir - pale, beautiful nose, lightweight and easy drinking. Any time, this will do.

2020 Navarro, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - probably too young to properly assess, but this is less than anticipated by a large margin. Maybe another day.

2021 Ancient Peaks, Chardonnay Santa Margarita Ranch - 13.5% Chard from Paso. It almost pains me to say it, but I like it. Excellent and nuanced fruit, no evident oak, good acidity and balance. There are almost no CA Chards that I want anything to do with (let alone Paso Chards) which is why I find this hard to write - this is good. Maybe even real good.
And it’s about $16 - I am amazed.

2021 Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages - lip smackin’, available everywhere and usually $10-12. Nothing profound but quite tasty.

2020 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres - not fully ready but the aromas are captivating and the flavors are equally so. Lots of structure here that needs to soften but also, lots of promise.

2018 Dom. de Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie - easier to drink than the Desvignes with lovely, lifted fruit and good integration; seems more complete but lighter than the preceding wine. The whole-cluster stemmy quality is barely at the edges now so another month(s) and it should be gone.

2019 Birichino, Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard - good, lightweight, character filled red wine without artifice. Always reliable.

2016 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - the biggest wine I made at 14.1% abv and the blackest. It’s all baker’s chocolate and blackberry preserves on the nose; likewise on the palate and savory. No real impression of alcohol but it’s dense and pretty intense - a big swing to the dark side from our 2015 from the same rows, which was elegant and lively.
But this 2016 is killer with chocolate!

2007 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - the first wine I made, unreleased; strong black fruit with olive and pepper accents, some secondary development but this is really still pretty primary. Smoothes with air and worked well with pizza but this has decades to go. 13.5% abv. Only 9 bottles remain and I’d be surprised if I have decades to go.
Maybe my daughter will hit it at peak.

2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - Kickin’.

2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Sechet - fully open, developed and gorgeous. Premier Cru doesn’t get much better. No doubt it will age further and develop - but not at my house. Extremely fine.

2019 Souhaut, Syrah - 12.5% abv; pretty, complex, medium weight and the kind of wine I could drink much more often. Very fine.

2014 Puffeney, Poulsard M - massively tannic, a bit disjointed and not much fruit on day one;

2005 Puffeney, Poulsard M - funky, structured, but more in balance than the ‘14 and, with air, enjoyable. Just enough weirdness to get you out of your head but not so much as to make it uncomfortable.

2019 Marcel Servin, Chablis Montee de Tonnerre - not to be confused with Domaine Servin, this is estate fruit and not much of it made. While we are early to this, all the earmarks of great Chablis are there - minerality, acidity and citrus (mostly lemon) fruit. And as the evening goes by, we know we’ve got a good one. Hold.

2019 Jadot, Chablis Montee de Tonnerre - too much oak for my taste; good but second fiddle by a wide margin to the Servin.

2019 Laurel Gray, Viognier Swan Creek North Carolina - despite 14% abv, a restrained, savory, flinty Viognier that is true to its variety, not syrupy and has some earth tones. Not a favorite but much more than expected.

Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:


2019 Laurel Gray, Viognier Swan Creek North Carolina - despite 14% abv, a restrained, savory, flinty Viognier that is true to its variety, not syrupy and has some earth tones. Not a favorite but much more than expected.

Best, Jim

Wow. Where in NC is that grown?
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Wine impressions 9-2-22

2020 Navarro, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - probably too young to properly assess, but this is less than anticipated by a large margin. Maybe another day.

2021 Ancient Peaks, Chardonnay Santa Margarita Ranch - 13.5% Chard from Paso. It almost pains me to say it, but I like it. Excellent and nuanced fruit, no evident oak, good acidity and balance. There are almost no CA Chards that I want anything to do with (let alone Paso Chards) which is why I find this hard to write - this is good. Maybe even real good.
And it’s about $16 - I am amazed.

2019 Laurel Gray, Viognier Swan Creek North Carolina - despite 14% abv, a restrained, savory, flinty Viognier that is true to its variety, not syrupy and has some earth tones. Not a favorite but much more than expected.

Best, Jim
I'm not the biggest fan of Anderson Valley PN, but I think in general they need at least some age. The few that deeply impressed me were 6+ years old.

I have found Ancient Peaks wine usually good value. Ditto for Tangent (in roughly the same area); whose whites (in particular the SB and Albarino) are made in a style I believe you'd like.

I have had some pretty good Viogniers from Virginia.
 
Christian,
I’ll look for Tangent; they’re new to me.

I made Anderson Valley Pinot for several years and came to like it - often cranberry or rhubarb notes when first bottled. But agree that, assuming a well made not over-oaked wine, age is a friend. My 2012 is showing pretty well these days (a little more than 6 years) but then I picked early so I expected a slow aging curve.
The first time I tasted Pinot from Anderson Valley was a Copain wine from a now defunct vineyard. SFJoe also tasted it and noted that he felt there was now actually hope for Pinot in CA. There are a few folks who make from there that still do a nice job.
But these days I look to Oregon. A lot of nice Pinots being made there.
Best, Jim
 
The above note on the 2014 Puffeney, Poulsard M intimated a later tasting; here’s the note:

on day three (bottled recorked and left on counter) the ugly duckling has become a swan - sensational depth and Poulsard typicity, integrated tannins and plenty of fruit. A joy on the order of some of the Overnoy bottlings - what a change!
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Yadkin Valley

Thanks. I guess that is the NC wine country/mountain region, although I never explored the local wines very much, and I'm guessing it's a far cry from the Rhone. Still, nice to hear of a good wine. And viognier no less, which strikes me as not easy.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Yadkin Valley

Thanks. I guess that is the NC wine country/mountain region, although I never explored the local wines very much, and I'm guessing it's a far cry from the Rhone. Still, nice to hear of a good wine. And viognier no less, which strikes me as not easy.
My thoughts, exactly.
Maybe 20 plus years ago, I got a chance to taste thru most of the NC wines then in production. It was not a good experience.
Since then, almost nothing.
But a friend here in the mountains, knowing my penchant for wine, has taken it upon himself to get me right with the local vino.
Always willing to listen and taste . . .
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Christian,
I’ll look for Tangent; they’re new to me.

I made Anderson Valley Pinot for several years and came to like it - often cranberry or rhubarb notes when first bottled. But agree that, assuming a well made not over-oaked wine, age is a friend. My 2012 is showing pretty well these days (a little more than 6 years) but then I picked early so I expected a slow aging curve.

Best, Jim

Those cranberry-rhubarb notes are what I find grating in many young Anderson Valley PNs, when combined with high acid & light body (I call them Campari in the finish). Odd since I like cranberry and rhubarb, just not in my Pinot Noir. The Ici/La Bas PNs (Clendenen/Knox) from the Elke vineyard have been very good with age, the 2006 being one of the best PNs I have had in the last 10 years. I too look first to Oregon these days, Burg prices being what they are.
 
I would be interested in looking into OR Pinot except I get so much Pinot as payment for bottling, it doesn't make sense for me. I'm quite happy with the ones I get from Neely, Sandar & Hem, Sandler and from my friend's hobby vineyard in Soquel (made by Cole Thomas at Madson). As it is, my palate tends to gravitate towards Santa Cruz Mtn. Pinot so that's enough to keep me busy. Don't need another rabbit hole to go down.
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
I would be interested in looking into OR Pinot except I get so much Pinot as payment for bottling, it doesn't make sense for me. I'm quite happy with the ones I get from Neely, Sandar & Hem, Sandler and from my friend's hobby vineyard in Soquel (made by Cole Thomas at Madson). As it is, my palate tends to gravitate towards Santa Cruz Mtn. Pinot so that's enough to keep me busy. Don't need another rabbit hole to go down.
You have some interesting sources. Of course, being involved with each helps.
Most of the Santa Cruz Mtn. stuff I’ve tried I’ve like, I just haven’t tried much.

Now, that I’m out of the biz, I don’t try as many wines as I used to and have gravitated to a few I know well. As long as pricing doesn’t go crazy, I’ll likely stick with those.
But, you never know . . .
Best, Jim
 
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