Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
attendees: Alex, Dan, Ethan, Jayson, JC, Jeff
Another round for the Jura wine lovers. (First one reported here.)
Tonight we have a table at Noreetuh, a famous Jin-joint in the East Village that serves Hawaiian and Hawaiian-fusion cuisine. If you've just entered pre-SPAM-abetic shock at the very mention of Hawaiian cuisine then you are totally missing out on some terrific food:
- skewers of pork belly and Angus beef
- musubi platter of galbi, corn, tuna, yellowtail
- a variant of poke with rare tuna chunks and watermelon
- dan-dan noodles and cavatelli
- a whole lotta fried chicken with macaroni salad and King rolls
- grilled pineapple, on the half shell
Jin Ahn is a wine geek of the first rank so these dishes were all carefully chosen not to interfere with the main event.
I decided to see how good the assembled geeks really are and swapped the two bottles I brought (easily done with a decanter). Would they notice? They should because one is 3 years old and one is 9 years old. Alas, one of the wines is corked so the game was undone. I have reported the wines correctly below.
Drunk in approximately this order:
1. Des Marnes Blanches
Dom. des Marnes Blanches 2019 Cotes du Jura "En Levrette" - 12.5%, minerally, dry, 'shrooms, grippy, more interesting than the Quatre Vis despite that it needed more time to come around, I keep a glass of this for the rest of the night
Dom. des Marnes Blanches 2019 Cotes du Jura "Les Molates" - 12.5%, corked.
Dom. des Marnes Blanches 2019 Cotes du Jura "En Quatre Vis" - 12.5%, richer and denser than the En Levrette, citrussy with an attention-getting grapefruit sort of thing, Jayson is totally all over it
2. Les Dolomies
The winemaker here, Celine Gormally, follows the style of Julien Labet, with whom she interned (among others). She decided to ignore the AOC rules in 2016 and has not looked back.
Dom. Les Dolomies 2020 VdF "Les Boutonnieres" - 14%, great texture, meaty-salty, a tiny note of camphor, a couple of people call it "beery" but I don't see it
Dom. Les Dolomies 2020 VdF "Les Combes" - 13.5%, the domaine's first plot, older vines (1960's), grassy, tight and tweaky, very yellow fruit, the better of the two
3. Two from Arbois
Dom. Fumey-Chatelain 2019 Arbois - 13.3%, is it corked? we're not sure so we proceed... rather ripe, juicy, vigorous, and, oh, yes, ahem, corked.
Dom. Tissot 2018 Arbois "Clos de la Tour de Curon" - 15.5%, what aromatics! I can smell this one from three feet away, a big hit of fruit with a finish of resin, it's a shame it's so spirity (and one can only overlook so much)
4. The Heavy Hitters
Dom. Labet 2013 Cotes du Jura "La Reine" - 12.6%, lemony, face powder, glycerin or lanolin so medium-heavy texture with great flavor intensity, alas not as good as my memory of it
Dom. Ganevat 2013 Cotes du Jura "Les Chalasses" VV - 12%, good, maybe a bit anonymous, there's an astounding amount of fizz in this one (we asked Jin to give the bottle a shake and it came back like a rabid cremant!)
5. This and That
Mystery Wine - riesling for sure, we decide it's rather limey so plunk for Nahe... which it's not: Ludes 2013 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken
Dom. Ganevat 2016 VdF "La Pero" - 13%, an odd one: 70% Alsatian muscat and only 30% Jura chardonnay, and, as you might guess, it completely tastes like muscat, maybe a touch of a crisp jalapeno in there somewhere but this is a strange child
Dom. Ganevat 2016 Cotes du Jura "Cuvee Julien" - 12%, pinot noir and pale pale pale, tangy and lightweight, somewhat herbal but not vegetal, one person swears he tastes tobacco in it (nope)
Dom. Tissot 2018 Arbois "Les Bruyeres" - 14%, smoky, crystalline and pure (...and palate fatigue is setting in)
Two corked wines out of thirteen is about 15% (ugh) but that is no reflection on the terrific company, the excellent restaurant, or the lively spirit of the whole event. Thanks to everyone!
...and, yes, JC, I worked a bit of photo magic on your photo to show the Labet in the lineup instead of the corked Fumey-Chatelain
Another round for the Jura wine lovers. (First one reported here.)
Tonight we have a table at Noreetuh, a famous Jin-joint in the East Village that serves Hawaiian and Hawaiian-fusion cuisine. If you've just entered pre-SPAM-abetic shock at the very mention of Hawaiian cuisine then you are totally missing out on some terrific food:
- skewers of pork belly and Angus beef
- musubi platter of galbi, corn, tuna, yellowtail
- a variant of poke with rare tuna chunks and watermelon
- dan-dan noodles and cavatelli
- a whole lotta fried chicken with macaroni salad and King rolls
- grilled pineapple, on the half shell
Jin Ahn is a wine geek of the first rank so these dishes were all carefully chosen not to interfere with the main event.
I decided to see how good the assembled geeks really are and swapped the two bottles I brought (easily done with a decanter). Would they notice? They should because one is 3 years old and one is 9 years old. Alas, one of the wines is corked so the game was undone. I have reported the wines correctly below.
Drunk in approximately this order:
1. Des Marnes Blanches
Dom. des Marnes Blanches 2019 Cotes du Jura "En Levrette" - 12.5%, minerally, dry, 'shrooms, grippy, more interesting than the Quatre Vis despite that it needed more time to come around, I keep a glass of this for the rest of the night
Dom. des Marnes Blanches 2019 Cotes du Jura "Les Molates" - 12.5%, corked.
Dom. des Marnes Blanches 2019 Cotes du Jura "En Quatre Vis" - 12.5%, richer and denser than the En Levrette, citrussy with an attention-getting grapefruit sort of thing, Jayson is totally all over it
2. Les Dolomies
The winemaker here, Celine Gormally, follows the style of Julien Labet, with whom she interned (among others). She decided to ignore the AOC rules in 2016 and has not looked back.
Dom. Les Dolomies 2020 VdF "Les Boutonnieres" - 14%, great texture, meaty-salty, a tiny note of camphor, a couple of people call it "beery" but I don't see it
Dom. Les Dolomies 2020 VdF "Les Combes" - 13.5%, the domaine's first plot, older vines (1960's), grassy, tight and tweaky, very yellow fruit, the better of the two
3. Two from Arbois
Dom. Fumey-Chatelain 2019 Arbois - 13.3%, is it corked? we're not sure so we proceed... rather ripe, juicy, vigorous, and, oh, yes, ahem, corked.
Dom. Tissot 2018 Arbois "Clos de la Tour de Curon" - 15.5%, what aromatics! I can smell this one from three feet away, a big hit of fruit with a finish of resin, it's a shame it's so spirity (and one can only overlook so much)
4. The Heavy Hitters
Dom. Labet 2013 Cotes du Jura "La Reine" - 12.6%, lemony, face powder, glycerin or lanolin so medium-heavy texture with great flavor intensity, alas not as good as my memory of it
Dom. Ganevat 2013 Cotes du Jura "Les Chalasses" VV - 12%, good, maybe a bit anonymous, there's an astounding amount of fizz in this one (we asked Jin to give the bottle a shake and it came back like a rabid cremant!)
5. This and That
Mystery Wine - riesling for sure, we decide it's rather limey so plunk for Nahe... which it's not: Ludes 2013 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken
Dom. Ganevat 2016 VdF "La Pero" - 13%, an odd one: 70% Alsatian muscat and only 30% Jura chardonnay, and, as you might guess, it completely tastes like muscat, maybe a touch of a crisp jalapeno in there somewhere but this is a strange child
Dom. Ganevat 2016 Cotes du Jura "Cuvee Julien" - 12%, pinot noir and pale pale pale, tangy and lightweight, somewhat herbal but not vegetal, one person swears he tastes tobacco in it (nope)
Dom. Tissot 2018 Arbois "Les Bruyeres" - 14%, smoky, crystalline and pure (...and palate fatigue is setting in)
Two corked wines out of thirteen is about 15% (ugh) but that is no reflection on the terrific company, the excellent restaurant, or the lively spirit of the whole event. Thanks to everyone!
...and, yes, JC, I worked a bit of photo magic on your photo to show the Labet in the lineup instead of the corked Fumey-Chatelain
