TN: The Virtual Tasting #26 (October 27, 2022)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don + Melissa, Jay, Jayson, Jeff, Lisa, Seth, Victor

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Seth (colors) and Jay (numbers) pouring. As always, blind tastes and discussion.

--
We take J1 and J2 together.

J1 -
Duplessis, G. 2017 Chablis 1er "Vaillons"
even over the course of just a few minutes, the mid-palate fills out a lot: yellow fruit, caraway, juicy acidity, and a long finish; my first guess is a Rollin white Burg; "smells like grapefruit to me" -Don
day2: more like Chablis today (or is it all in my head?), smoky/funky

J2 -
Drouhin 1986 Chablis GC "Vaudesir"
golden color (so this must be older), a little oxidation (confirms the relative age), but not sure just what it is; "smelly and a little long in the tooth" -Jayson.
day2: madeirized

We get that both are chardonnay and Burgundy. "J1 is kinda Chablis-y in the nose" -Jayson, "not an oaky chablis" -Don, Seth nails J1 as Duplessis 2017 but it takes a while till we get the terroir; smart alecks that we are, we ask Jay whether the vineyard for the second wine also starts with a V... Vaillons? Vaulorent? Vaudesir? (note that there are also Valmur, Vauligneau, Vaudevey, Vaucoupin, Vosgros, Vaubarousse, and innumerable lesser places). Jay had originally thought the Drouhin was also Vaillons but misremembered the label.

--
We take J3 and J4 together.

J3 -
Robert Mondavi 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
Well, um, er, it's cabernet franc or else it's slightly spoiled... Jayson says it seems like mostly cab sauv to him and "are we in CA?"
day2: inky color, there is still some little whiff of something wrong but it can be ignored, cool blue fruit and hearty tannins yet, still some oak to taste but distinctly cedary

J4 -
Lucien Boillot 1991 Nuits St. Georges 1er "Les Pruliers"
"Pinot, maybe from the same vineyard as J3?" -Don, ever seeking the theme; "has that bonfire thing" -Jayson, I think this is easy to call for Burgundy
day2: old claret color, surprising amount of fine sediment (lots of it), both sturdy and delicate, both acids and tannins are very gentle, not sure that I'm getting any NSG-ness... it is showing kinda old

Jayson does the heavy lifting on both of these wines, though it takes a bit of effort to land the right Boillot.

--
We take Pink and Orange together. (So... Peach?)

Pink -
Selbach Oster 2012 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Feinherb "Ur" Alte Reben
definitely riesling, a bit of orange oil and camphor, "great nose" -Don, Jay guesses Kabinett first then Spatlese then Spatlese Feinherb and there are few of those that drink this good so it must be the Ur Alte (2012 is the first vintage) (which we also tasted in Virtual Tasting #8)
day2: face-powder, underripe plums, substantial mid-palate, solid acidity, hint of camphor (or something else slightly musty-minty)

Orange -
Willi Schaefer 2002 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett
riesling again, slightly softer, slightly sweeter, but still Kabinett; we name Willi pretty easily though we think the palate should be more explosive and the nose riper
day2: juicy, graham crackers, sweet limes and oranges

--
This is Cyan (blue + green).

Green -
Julian Haart 2020 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese
riesling again and vivid, I guess 2015 but "a 2015 would have better acid on the palate" -Seth, who thinks this is very typical for a 2020 wine "good nose but a little soft on the palate"; I don't see this as lower-acid but YMMV; meanwhile, Jayson correctly places it in Piesporter!
day2: musky, broadly citrussy, bit of green grass too, very long finish

Blue -
Maximin Grunhaus (C. von Schubert) 1990 Abtsberg Riesling Auslese
riesling (surprise!), mint or spearmint in the nose (Don "a little", Victor "a lot", Seth "pine"), "Lychee" -Lisa, but I think the acidity is too sour and is out of balance, "I like Blue better as Green seems a little flat" -Victor
day2: yummy floral bouquet, assertive palate, much better filled-out than yesterday, apricots and green grapes, considerable sugar and a little botrytis, yum

--
Dessert!

J5 -
JJ Prum 1998 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
"Buttery" -Victor, several people's first guess is "smells good!"; we rapidly place it as German riesling, Jayson names the pradikat; there is still a lot of slate and a lot of stone fruit in there
day2: nose is restrained compared to the Von Schubert, sweeter than the Von Schubert, sleeker, golden-toned, cooling flavors of melon and cherry, harmonious and very long
 
Thanks as always to our much appreciated scribe!

I’ll only add that I found Day 2 was very kind to all 5 of the Rieslings(!) and to none of the others. In particular, the inability of the young Duplesis to manage Day 2 was a bit surprising and a little alarming, especially given its vibrancy on Day 1.
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

Jayson, curious...what exactly does that emoji signify? Vintage? Rating? Other?

. . . . . . Pete
Click to expand...

I would interpret it as 100% agreement. But then I would, wouldn't I?
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I would interpret it as 100% agreement. But then I would, wouldn't I?
Click to expand...

It was a momentous occasion a few weeks ago at Peking Duck East, during Latin Liquidator and Family's official state visit. It was also the time to mark the passing of the great Catherine Roussel, and, through the auspices of The Unoaked Jay Miller, we were treated to 2009 Clos Roche Blanche Cabernet - a wine of indescribable beauty and significance. It was unanimously decided at this gathering that Jay's current title, initially awarded due to necessity of distinction during the dark days of wine journalism, was no longer sufficient for recognition of his contributions to the quality of our lives. I was assigned the task of traveling to distant lands in search of wisdom required for discovery of a worthy title, and came upon a 15th century home of Beguine nuns in the heart of Swabia. The nuns were no longer there, but I was greeted by a very fat man who made me drink unreasonable volumes of local hooch for six days and nights, before addressing the subject of my quest. At the end, the wisdom of His Corpulence was indisputable. Upon my return, an official BYOB ceremony will be conducted, at the end of which the man who will enter the room as The Unoaked Jay Miller shall depart as The Stainless Jay Miller, and shall be referred to and addressed in such manner thenceforth.
 
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