Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
Oof, it's been 6 months since I last posted a bunch of onesies. Life has been busy, including a lot more personal/pleasure travel than usual. (Whereas work travel, which was the impetus for my prior "Suddenly..." posts, has basically completely dropped off. Business meetings run on Zoom or Teams now, with the occasional WebEx.)
All of these are new notes, no repeats from jeebi or chatter here.
---
FRANCE BOTTLES
Dom. de La Grosse Pierre 2020 Chiroubles "La Grosse Pierre" - 14.5% though it hides it fairly well, a good mid-weight Beaujolais, sweet but tangy, even His Majesty wants a glass so it must be elixir
Chasse-Spleen 1996 Moulis-en-Medoc - a little musty for a few minutes, then it's recognizably middle-aged Bordeaux: black currants and mashed dark berries, a trace of saddle leather and orange rind, a little lean, not rustic but not refined either, good if not too exciting
Mathieu, Louis 2015 Bourgogne Rouge "Les Nargilets" - needs an hour to blossom: before, kinda thin body, showing some riesling-like cut, and a sweetness but pretty tame; after, still sweet but with richness to carry it along, floral-fruity, recognizably Burgundy, not too much 'there there' so the solar plumpness is welcome
Rossignol, Michel & Marc 2019 Bourgogne Rouge - tastes a little like Volnay which is good in a little wine, even my partner drinks a glass(!)
Philipponat NV Champagne Royale Reserve Rose Brut - 375ml, 75 PN / 20 C / 5 PM, harvest 2009, disg. 10/2016, dosage 9 g/l, and many more stats crammed onto the back label; light-to-medium pink, good fizz yet, vinous and not at all bready/toasty, not a whole lot of fruit here, very minerally and savory, elegant
Baudry B 2016 Chinon Rouge "La Croix Boissee" - a bit of funk takes a few minutes to blow off, beautiful, it's a funny wine in that the texture is, at best, light-to-mid weight and silky smooth yet the flavor intensity is terrific: dark fruit, salt, a teeny bit of popsicle stick, raisin maybe, before I knew what happened the 750 was gone
Pepiere, Dom. de la 2020 Muscadet "Briords", Cuvee VV - yellow fruit very plainly, shapely acids but not the zing of climates gone by (pout)
Nicolas Badel 2014 St. Joseph "Les Mourrays" - clean, nice age, crisp, claimed to be like Gonon which seems not quite so but it is very good
Dumien-Serrette 2020 VdF Syrah "Le Moulin" - simple syrah but it has a little lightness of being; second bottle the same
OK, this one already posted:
Vincent Paris 2015 Cornas "Granit 30" - it drank beautifully if rather opulently, it offered a soft-focus view of Cornas that worked well with the food
Texier, Eric 2001 Cotes-du-Rhone "Brezeme" - Robust, very syrah (to paraphrase Lisa: this wine could not get out of a dark alley without being identified as syrah), so yum, it is just a touch warm-sweet but you have to be really picky to mention it
Dom. l'Amandier (M. Texier) 2019 Côtes du Rhône Brézème - after a day or two, I decide this is scalped (lightly corked)
Ch. Dauphine 2018 Fronsac - yes, it's young Bordeaux, nicely judged balance, tannins are present but quite fine, not so obviously 'gravel and iron' as the region's reputation, a good QPR wine
Billaud, Samuel 2018 Chablis - no note?
Foillard 2019 Morgon "Cuvee Classique" - third of a half-case, good as always
---
ITALY BOTTLES
Piemaggio 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva "La Fioraie" - excellent, in a sweet spot: medium textured, with a blast of fruit when opened that slowly steps back to reveal mineral, floral, and tart flavors; second bottle shows an even more luxurious texture
Franchino 2011 Gattinara - day 1:kinda tight, day3: stern but more giving, the fragrance is noticeable from three feet away (a good sign)
Grifalco 2019 Aglianico del Vulture - 13%, that's a hearty red wine!; I'm being funny but it is earthy, black-fruity, reasonably tannic, and the back label is overly informative:
Aglianico grapes growing under the volcano Vulture in 16 hectares spread thought [sic] the villages of:
- Venosa 450 m a.s.l.
- Maschito 450/560 m a.s.l.
- Forenza 520/580 m a.s.l.
All the batches are fermented in steels and separately aged, part in French, Slavonian and American oak with size between 300 and 5500 liters and part between 3000 and 5500 liters steel tank.
Then the assemblies are made by searching for the most:
- Elegance, Freshness, Fruit, Body, Persistence.
Aging 18 months in oak and steel barrels
6 months in the bottle
Nusserhof 2018 Blatterle - "This smells like Northern Italy to me" -Tim (who lived near Aviano for 3 years), resinous, vigorous, marzipan and cooked apricot (but not stewy), a very good match for a table full of dumplings and stir-fry
Proprieta Sperino 2021 Rosato "Rosa del Rosa" - medium pink, fruity, tingly, great vintage of this!
OK, this one was already mentioned but here's the note:
Tiberio 2020 Trebbiano d"Abruzzo - pleasantly bitter, kinda like a bean (Jayson suggests fennel) with some green vegetal flavor followed by that bitterness, nice
---
ELSEWHERE BOTTLES
Guimaro 2018 Ribeira Sacra Mencia "Camino Real" Tinto - nice but totally anonymous
Oremus 2013 Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos - zingy acidity, prominently honeyed, sweet (of course), very marmalade and very saliva-inducing
---
THE FINGER LAKES TRIP
...before...
Terrassen 2019 Gamay, Finger Lakes - 2 puncheons(!), proper color and texture for gamay, this is nicely done, under-fruited with sound acidity, I like
Terrassen 2018 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes - limestone and steely, just barely ripe, bit of face-powder in the finish, thin texture, nice quaff
...during...
already posted
...after...
Red Tail Ridge Winery 2016 Sekt - too dry for my companions but I think it's great: there's just a few grains of sugar in there to buffer it, it's a nervy kabinett otherwise
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2021 Rkatsiteli - this was kinda boring in July but now it has developed a bit: slightly musky, gruner veltliner-ish nose, just-so acidity, this is a pleasure to drink
Red Tail Ridge Winery 2021 Gewurztraminer - 9.6%, pleasant, floral-fruity but not aggressively so
Forge Cellars 2020 Cabernet Franc, Willow Vineyard - this is great!: drinks like a pinot noir, slightly lemony, bright and clean
---
THE UK-IE TRIP
Highlights from among a sea of ordinary prosecco, indifferent white Rioja, and the like:
Cave De La Cote 2021 La Cote, Doral "Expression" - from a Swiss cooperative, doral is chardonnay x chasselas, pungent and richly textured, part of a mixed case of wines chosen to synch with the various legs of the Tour de France(!)
Ch. Rausan-Segla 1962 Margaux - for the Birthday Girl; excellent color and condition, decanted off very light sediment, a whiff of school paste blows off in a minute, all tannins resolved, flavor has shifted slightly toward blacker fruit than is usual for Margaux, it is a mid-weight wine, a 'threat' of citrus flavors keeps it lively, might lose its Margaux-ness soon so drink now, delicious tonight
Weingut Max. Ferd. Richter 2021 Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling "Zeppelin" - off-dry, easy-drinking style, a good dinner choice whether traveling by air or sitting in a restaurant in Dublin
Vintage Cocktail Club
A hip joint behind a non-descript door. Terrific stuff (pdf) of which we tried a few:
CLOVE & SNOW - Highball glass & Tall Ice: Havana Especial Rum, VCC Winter Punch Cordial, raspberry, VCC Clove Tincture, fresh citrus, over Ginger beer, with a homemade lemon cracker and a cherry - alas, the clove tincture ran roughshod over everything else
THE COBBLESTONE - Coupe glass & ice sphere: Red Breast 12 year old Irish Whiskey, Apricot Brandy, Green Chartreuse, VCC Sweet Vermouth, bitters, with lemon oils and an apricot mist - a recommendation by the server, one of their flagship drinks, this is perfection in a cocktail glass
SINGLE SERVING ORIGINAL MILK PUNCH, 1680 - Rocks glass & block Ice: Buffalo Trace bourbon, vanilla, milk, fresh citrus and freshly ground nutmeg - delicious
HOWY’A WHISKEY - Coupe glass & ice sphere: Buffalo Trace bourbon, hazelnut, walnut, fresh citrus, with orange oils - a really ordinary whiskey drink
ISABELLA - Highball glass & tall ice: Connemara peated Irish whiskey, Wray & Nephew Over proof Rum, Cointreau, pineapple, grapefruit and raspberry, fresh citrus, with a dried fruit garnish - headed towards a tiki drink but the peat totally derails it
TROUBLE & STRIFE - Coupe glass & ice sphere: Beefeater Gin, VCC Rhubarb, Vanilla and Star Anise Liqueur, fresh citrus, with lemon oils and whole clove - another drink where the cloves take control and do not let anybody else speak
MILLIONAIRE - not on the list but we know it's dark rum, sloe gin, apricot brandy, and lime juice - citrus forward but a lotta apricotta
---
THE MINNESOTA TRIP
The party for Karen's book launch! These three were provided by Karen for the guests at large:
Pehu-Simonet NV Champagne Brut "Face Nord" GC (disg. 6/2021) - well-balanced palate with moderate brioche and red fruit (it is pinot-based), pleasant if not too exciting
Courtois (Dom. Jaume) 2019 Cotes-du-Rhone "La Source" - yup
Brun NV "FRV100" - forever and ever
There were, however, a few geek invitees. Among them, Jim Verlautz, who said, "Jeff's here so I gotta up my game."
Weingut Karlsmuhle 2003 Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett 3536016904 - heat damaged or maybe OTH, too bad
Dampt 2014 Chablis 1er "Cote de Lechet" - excellent, acids and seashells are all there
Dom. Francois Lumpp 2014 Givry 1er "A Vigne Rouge" - bright and floral, enough earth to keep it substantial without being stodgy, this bottle is terrific
Joseph Drouhin 2020 Macon-Villages - well-manicured and well-behaved
Dom. Baumard NV Cremant de Loire "Carte Turquoise" - chenin fizz works with everything on the table
---
THE NORTH CAROLINA TRIP
A visit to FL Jim and Diane.
Pinon 2019 Vouvray Sec - 12.5%, has what Jim wants: dry, not too ripe, clear presenation of fruit; yes, though I wish for some more mineral interference
Pierre Richard 2020 Cotes du Jura, Poulsard - 12.5%, smells like pinot noir but doesn't taste like it, good straight-forward wine
Cowan Cellars 2015 Syrah, Bennett Valley - 13%, this is terrific, still rather primary, but varietally true, whiff of bay leaf and wet earth
Cowan Cellars 2012 "ISA" - 13%, skin-contact sauvignon blanc, even after 10 years this speaks more of process than place (or grape), useful at the table (think 'light red')
Cowan Cellars 2017 Ribolla Gialla - 12.6%, kinda weak, we don't finish it
Chevillon 1999 Nuits-St-Georges 1er "Les Vaucrains" - 13.5%, still tannic and showing torrefaction (roast, espresso), red flavors are bending towards dark-red but this is not 'haunting' Burgundy and really needs some food
Cowan Cellars 2012 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley - 13.6%, excellent, maybe lacks some complexifying minerality but shows beautiful fruit, clean and pure
Delord NV Bas-Armagnac "25 ans" - round and nutty, wood and praline, fruit is dried-out but nice anyway
Cowan Cellars 2012 Ribolla Gialla - 11.7%, skin contact, a funny wine: it shows some signs of the intrusive process but it is also lightweight and yellow-fruited like the fresh R.G. yesterday
Chermette 2020 Fleurie "Poncie" - 13.5%, black-fruited, crisp and beautiful, we greedily finish this one before dinner is over
Ch. Lafite 2000 Pauillac "Les Carruades de Lafite" - 12.5%, is something wrong?: there is a teeny bit of brett, a bit of kindergarten school paste, it's lifted so I think there is VA in here but Jim thinks it's just very slightly corked; a few hours later, significantly improved: more fruit and zing with less of the off-flavors, does it just (still!) need decanter time?
Cowan Cellars 2012 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley - 13.6%, rich, plummy; fragrant in a spicy way, not a floral way
---
THE BROCKPORT AND BUFFALO TRIP
Alas, no interesting wine.
All of these are new notes, no repeats from jeebi or chatter here.
---
FRANCE BOTTLES
Dom. de La Grosse Pierre 2020 Chiroubles "La Grosse Pierre" - 14.5% though it hides it fairly well, a good mid-weight Beaujolais, sweet but tangy, even His Majesty wants a glass so it must be elixir
Chasse-Spleen 1996 Moulis-en-Medoc - a little musty for a few minutes, then it's recognizably middle-aged Bordeaux: black currants and mashed dark berries, a trace of saddle leather and orange rind, a little lean, not rustic but not refined either, good if not too exciting
Mathieu, Louis 2015 Bourgogne Rouge "Les Nargilets" - needs an hour to blossom: before, kinda thin body, showing some riesling-like cut, and a sweetness but pretty tame; after, still sweet but with richness to carry it along, floral-fruity, recognizably Burgundy, not too much 'there there' so the solar plumpness is welcome
Rossignol, Michel & Marc 2019 Bourgogne Rouge - tastes a little like Volnay which is good in a little wine, even my partner drinks a glass(!)
Philipponat NV Champagne Royale Reserve Rose Brut - 375ml, 75 PN / 20 C / 5 PM, harvest 2009, disg. 10/2016, dosage 9 g/l, and many more stats crammed onto the back label; light-to-medium pink, good fizz yet, vinous and not at all bready/toasty, not a whole lot of fruit here, very minerally and savory, elegant
Baudry B 2016 Chinon Rouge "La Croix Boissee" - a bit of funk takes a few minutes to blow off, beautiful, it's a funny wine in that the texture is, at best, light-to-mid weight and silky smooth yet the flavor intensity is terrific: dark fruit, salt, a teeny bit of popsicle stick, raisin maybe, before I knew what happened the 750 was gone
Pepiere, Dom. de la 2020 Muscadet "Briords", Cuvee VV - yellow fruit very plainly, shapely acids but not the zing of climates gone by (pout)
Nicolas Badel 2014 St. Joseph "Les Mourrays" - clean, nice age, crisp, claimed to be like Gonon which seems not quite so but it is very good
Dumien-Serrette 2020 VdF Syrah "Le Moulin" - simple syrah but it has a little lightness of being; second bottle the same
OK, this one already posted:
Vincent Paris 2015 Cornas "Granit 30" - it drank beautifully if rather opulently, it offered a soft-focus view of Cornas that worked well with the food
Texier, Eric 2001 Cotes-du-Rhone "Brezeme" - Robust, very syrah (to paraphrase Lisa: this wine could not get out of a dark alley without being identified as syrah), so yum, it is just a touch warm-sweet but you have to be really picky to mention it
Dom. l'Amandier (M. Texier) 2019 Côtes du Rhône Brézème - after a day or two, I decide this is scalped (lightly corked)
Ch. Dauphine 2018 Fronsac - yes, it's young Bordeaux, nicely judged balance, tannins are present but quite fine, not so obviously 'gravel and iron' as the region's reputation, a good QPR wine
Billaud, Samuel 2018 Chablis - no note?
Foillard 2019 Morgon "Cuvee Classique" - third of a half-case, good as always
---
ITALY BOTTLES
Piemaggio 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva "La Fioraie" - excellent, in a sweet spot: medium textured, with a blast of fruit when opened that slowly steps back to reveal mineral, floral, and tart flavors; second bottle shows an even more luxurious texture
Franchino 2011 Gattinara - day 1:kinda tight, day3: stern but more giving, the fragrance is noticeable from three feet away (a good sign)
Grifalco 2019 Aglianico del Vulture - 13%, that's a hearty red wine!; I'm being funny but it is earthy, black-fruity, reasonably tannic, and the back label is overly informative:
Aglianico grapes growing under the volcano Vulture in 16 hectares spread thought [sic] the villages of:
- Venosa 450 m a.s.l.
- Maschito 450/560 m a.s.l.
- Forenza 520/580 m a.s.l.
All the batches are fermented in steels and separately aged, part in French, Slavonian and American oak with size between 300 and 5500 liters and part between 3000 and 5500 liters steel tank.
Then the assemblies are made by searching for the most:
- Elegance, Freshness, Fruit, Body, Persistence.
Aging 18 months in oak and steel barrels
6 months in the bottle
Nusserhof 2018 Blatterle - "This smells like Northern Italy to me" -Tim (who lived near Aviano for 3 years), resinous, vigorous, marzipan and cooked apricot (but not stewy), a very good match for a table full of dumplings and stir-fry
Proprieta Sperino 2021 Rosato "Rosa del Rosa" - medium pink, fruity, tingly, great vintage of this!
OK, this one was already mentioned but here's the note:
Tiberio 2020 Trebbiano d"Abruzzo - pleasantly bitter, kinda like a bean (Jayson suggests fennel) with some green vegetal flavor followed by that bitterness, nice
---
ELSEWHERE BOTTLES
Guimaro 2018 Ribeira Sacra Mencia "Camino Real" Tinto - nice but totally anonymous
Oremus 2013 Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos - zingy acidity, prominently honeyed, sweet (of course), very marmalade and very saliva-inducing
---
THE FINGER LAKES TRIP
...before...
Terrassen 2019 Gamay, Finger Lakes - 2 puncheons(!), proper color and texture for gamay, this is nicely done, under-fruited with sound acidity, I like
Terrassen 2018 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes - limestone and steely, just barely ripe, bit of face-powder in the finish, thin texture, nice quaff
...during...
already posted
...after...
Red Tail Ridge Winery 2016 Sekt - too dry for my companions but I think it's great: there's just a few grains of sugar in there to buffer it, it's a nervy kabinett otherwise
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2021 Rkatsiteli - this was kinda boring in July but now it has developed a bit: slightly musky, gruner veltliner-ish nose, just-so acidity, this is a pleasure to drink
Red Tail Ridge Winery 2021 Gewurztraminer - 9.6%, pleasant, floral-fruity but not aggressively so
Forge Cellars 2020 Cabernet Franc, Willow Vineyard - this is great!: drinks like a pinot noir, slightly lemony, bright and clean
---
THE UK-IE TRIP
Highlights from among a sea of ordinary prosecco, indifferent white Rioja, and the like:
Cave De La Cote 2021 La Cote, Doral "Expression" - from a Swiss cooperative, doral is chardonnay x chasselas, pungent and richly textured, part of a mixed case of wines chosen to synch with the various legs of the Tour de France(!)
Ch. Rausan-Segla 1962 Margaux - for the Birthday Girl; excellent color and condition, decanted off very light sediment, a whiff of school paste blows off in a minute, all tannins resolved, flavor has shifted slightly toward blacker fruit than is usual for Margaux, it is a mid-weight wine, a 'threat' of citrus flavors keeps it lively, might lose its Margaux-ness soon so drink now, delicious tonight
Weingut Max. Ferd. Richter 2021 Mulheimer Sonnenlay Riesling "Zeppelin" - off-dry, easy-drinking style, a good dinner choice whether traveling by air or sitting in a restaurant in Dublin
Vintage Cocktail Club
A hip joint behind a non-descript door. Terrific stuff (pdf) of which we tried a few:
CLOVE & SNOW - Highball glass & Tall Ice: Havana Especial Rum, VCC Winter Punch Cordial, raspberry, VCC Clove Tincture, fresh citrus, over Ginger beer, with a homemade lemon cracker and a cherry - alas, the clove tincture ran roughshod over everything else
THE COBBLESTONE - Coupe glass & ice sphere: Red Breast 12 year old Irish Whiskey, Apricot Brandy, Green Chartreuse, VCC Sweet Vermouth, bitters, with lemon oils and an apricot mist - a recommendation by the server, one of their flagship drinks, this is perfection in a cocktail glass
SINGLE SERVING ORIGINAL MILK PUNCH, 1680 - Rocks glass & block Ice: Buffalo Trace bourbon, vanilla, milk, fresh citrus and freshly ground nutmeg - delicious
HOWY’A WHISKEY - Coupe glass & ice sphere: Buffalo Trace bourbon, hazelnut, walnut, fresh citrus, with orange oils - a really ordinary whiskey drink
ISABELLA - Highball glass & tall ice: Connemara peated Irish whiskey, Wray & Nephew Over proof Rum, Cointreau, pineapple, grapefruit and raspberry, fresh citrus, with a dried fruit garnish - headed towards a tiki drink but the peat totally derails it
TROUBLE & STRIFE - Coupe glass & ice sphere: Beefeater Gin, VCC Rhubarb, Vanilla and Star Anise Liqueur, fresh citrus, with lemon oils and whole clove - another drink where the cloves take control and do not let anybody else speak
MILLIONAIRE - not on the list but we know it's dark rum, sloe gin, apricot brandy, and lime juice - citrus forward but a lotta apricotta
---
THE MINNESOTA TRIP
The party for Karen's book launch! These three were provided by Karen for the guests at large:
Pehu-Simonet NV Champagne Brut "Face Nord" GC (disg. 6/2021) - well-balanced palate with moderate brioche and red fruit (it is pinot-based), pleasant if not too exciting
Courtois (Dom. Jaume) 2019 Cotes-du-Rhone "La Source" - yup
Brun NV "FRV100" - forever and ever
There were, however, a few geek invitees. Among them, Jim Verlautz, who said, "Jeff's here so I gotta up my game."
Weingut Karlsmuhle 2003 Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett 3536016904 - heat damaged or maybe OTH, too bad
Dampt 2014 Chablis 1er "Cote de Lechet" - excellent, acids and seashells are all there
Dom. Francois Lumpp 2014 Givry 1er "A Vigne Rouge" - bright and floral, enough earth to keep it substantial without being stodgy, this bottle is terrific
Joseph Drouhin 2020 Macon-Villages - well-manicured and well-behaved
Dom. Baumard NV Cremant de Loire "Carte Turquoise" - chenin fizz works with everything on the table
---
THE NORTH CAROLINA TRIP
A visit to FL Jim and Diane.
Pinon 2019 Vouvray Sec - 12.5%, has what Jim wants: dry, not too ripe, clear presenation of fruit; yes, though I wish for some more mineral interference
Pierre Richard 2020 Cotes du Jura, Poulsard - 12.5%, smells like pinot noir but doesn't taste like it, good straight-forward wine
Cowan Cellars 2015 Syrah, Bennett Valley - 13%, this is terrific, still rather primary, but varietally true, whiff of bay leaf and wet earth
Cowan Cellars 2012 "ISA" - 13%, skin-contact sauvignon blanc, even after 10 years this speaks more of process than place (or grape), useful at the table (think 'light red')
Cowan Cellars 2017 Ribolla Gialla - 12.6%, kinda weak, we don't finish it
Chevillon 1999 Nuits-St-Georges 1er "Les Vaucrains" - 13.5%, still tannic and showing torrefaction (roast, espresso), red flavors are bending towards dark-red but this is not 'haunting' Burgundy and really needs some food
Cowan Cellars 2012 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley - 13.6%, excellent, maybe lacks some complexifying minerality but shows beautiful fruit, clean and pure
Delord NV Bas-Armagnac "25 ans" - round and nutty, wood and praline, fruit is dried-out but nice anyway
Cowan Cellars 2012 Ribolla Gialla - 11.7%, skin contact, a funny wine: it shows some signs of the intrusive process but it is also lightweight and yellow-fruited like the fresh R.G. yesterday
Chermette 2020 Fleurie "Poncie" - 13.5%, black-fruited, crisp and beautiful, we greedily finish this one before dinner is over
Ch. Lafite 2000 Pauillac "Les Carruades de Lafite" - 12.5%, is something wrong?: there is a teeny bit of brett, a bit of kindergarten school paste, it's lifted so I think there is VA in here but Jim thinks it's just very slightly corked; a few hours later, significantly improved: more fruit and zing with less of the off-flavors, does it just (still!) need decanter time?
Cowan Cellars 2012 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley - 13.6%, rich, plummy; fragrant in a spicy way, not a floral way
---
THE BROCKPORT AND BUFFALO TRIP
Alas, no interesting wine.
