Wine impressions 1-9-23

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
Wine impressions 1-9-23

2021 Saladini Pilastri, Falerio - a white blend from the Marche that’s Passerina, Trebbiano, Pecorino and Chardonnay; charming white fruit nose, medium weight and textural with good balance and complexity and quite fresh (No RS that I can discern). The texture and freshness stood out. My new go to white (along with the Hermes noted below).
Excellent.

2021 Saladini Pilastri, Pecorino - 100% Pecorino; more focused than the preceding wine but the same medium weight and textures. Savory in all respects.
Very good.

2020 Famiglia Lanxavecchia, Nebbiolo D’Alba - quiet nose but true to the variety, very savory flavors with depth, typicity and medium weight. Bone dry and more expansive in the mouth than on the nose.
Very good.

2021 Famiglia Lanzavecchia, Roero Arneis - more open on the nose than the preceding wine, good Arneis character, cut and balance and a bitter note on the finish which seems to disappear with food. Hence, probably best with food.
Very good.

2021 Hermes, Assyrtiko - smells dry (best descriptor I’ve got) with floral and fresh herb notes; mouth filling flavors and textures, balanced and longer than expected. With an Asian bowl type meal, sensational.
Excellent.

2021 Greek Wine Cellars, Assyrtiko - similar to the foregoing but with the volume turned down and not as complex. Charming but not special and double the price of the Hermes.
Good.

2020 Vissoux, Fleurie Les Garants - while it smells good and the flavors are pure, the alcohol (14.5% on the label) is insidious, muddying out the nose and making the wine simple, ponderous and forgettable.
Poor.
(FWIW, the Poncie from the same vintage and producer was excellent and a degree less in alcohol.)

2021 Marchese di Borgsole, Fiano - perm solution nose, no markers of the variety and a lot of RS.
Bad.

2020 Renieri, Rosso di Montalacino - upon opening, a big somewhat sweet and simple red without character. But once it gets air, the tannins clamp down, the fruit streamlines and the complexity arrives. With decanter time, an entirely different and really delicious wine.
Very good.

2021 Extradimensional Wine Co., Mourvèdre Evangelho - even with decanter time, it’s too young. All the right notes are there but it’s not harmonious - yet.
Hold.

2017 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - during its first 4 years in bottle, it was much too disjointed and young. These days it’s found it’s center, become integrated and even nuanced and is just about as good as Bennett Valley Syrah can be. I had hoped for this but 5 years is a bit of a wait.
Excellent.

Best, Jim
 
"2020 Vissoux, Fleurie Les Garants - while it smells good and the flavors are pure, the alcohol (14.5% on the label) is insidious, muddying out the nose and making the wine simple, ponderous and forgettable.
Poor.
(FWIW, the Poncie from the same vintage and producer was excellent and a degree less in alcohol.)"

the 2021 of each of these wines have just landed,and they are both labelled at 13%, which makes sense in the context of the vintage. not yet tasted.
 
I tried the garants last night. and yes, a cold rainy year makes a markedly different wine than one that is all sun and heat.

i enjoyed it with a meal without digging deep into what was in the glass, but here's what i got. . . .

the colour is classic transparent magenta beaujolais--not inky. gamay flavours bright and fresh--bouyant--charming and pure. gouylent (sp?). (
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
I’d be interested in your opinion when you do.
Best, Jim

night two:

the tame bouquet is sometimes strawberry and sometimes boysenberry, with hints of a bit of baking spies and stems.

in the mouth the fruit is surrounded by minerale and tannin--the tannin very polite and well behaved. the wine is no more than medium bodied.

all the pieces in all the right places--i wouldn't be surprised to find this wine very silky and more complex once down the road a few years.
 
Robert,
Sounds like my kind of wine.
Interested to hear you say stems; I often get that in the Poncie, even in 2020.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Robert,
Sounds like my kind of wine.
Interested to hear you say stems; I often get that in the Poncie, even in 2020.
Best, Jim

per the weygandt website, all his wines are whole cluster/indigenous yeast.
 
Maybe.
But the 2020 Garants did not have any hint of stem inclusion and those are some really strong indigenous yeasts to get that kind of sugar/alcohol thru fermentation without sticking.
Not saying it can’t, or wasn’t, done - just surprised.
Best, Jim
 
If Vissoux is carbonic or semi-carbonic, stem inclusion is the norm. I have only heard of one wine -- Sébastien David's Kézako -- where the grapes are destemmed before undergoing carbonic maceration.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
If Vissoux is carbonic or semi-carbonic, stem inclusion is the norm. I have only heard of one wine -- Sébastien David's Kézako -- where the grapes are destemmed before undergoing carbonic maceration.

That's quite a trick. I'd think that even destemming by hand would run a high risk of creating an opening in the skin of the grape.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
If Vissoux is carbonic or semi-carbonic, stem inclusion is the norm. I have only heard of one wine -- Sébastien David's Kézako -- where the grapes are destemmed before undergoing carbonic maceration.
Is it carbonic?
I don’t know - perhaps another resident here does?
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
If Vissoux is carbonic or semi-carbonic, stem inclusion is the norm. I have only heard of one wine -- Sébastien David's Kézako -- where the grapes are destemmed before undergoing carbonic maceration.

That's quite a trick. I'd think that even destemming by hand would run a high risk of creating an opening in the skin of the grape.

Mark Lipton

Definitely. There are openings where the stems used to connect, so the intracelular fermentation must happen in a "compromised" way because the environment is no longer entirely anaerobic.

See this old post:

originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:

Friday, October 15
Domaine Sébastien David
The world order always feels mildly skewed when someone has a first name for a last name. I don’t want you to think that I am being familiar when I refer to Sébastien David as David.

Even though Sébastien’s father had a winery, young David avoided the easy route and spent ten years working elsewhere, notably the US, but also Chile, before taking over the familial property in the late 1990s. This visit turned out to be one the most fascinating because of the variety of vinification techniques employed, even though I had a hard time following David’s fast and blurry delivery. He is clearly studious, with a self-assured command of technical matters, but is also a born tinkerer. Most important, the wines were delicious, and among the most interesting that we encountered.

The first vat we saw contained grapes undergoing traditional carbonic maceration.
013SDMC.jpg
Regular carbonic

Next came the surprise of the visit, semi-carbonic maceration taking place in barrel for the Kezako cuvée. I had never heard of this procedure, but David said that’s how they did it in his father’s time. A wire mesh is used, like a sieve, to select destemmed grapes of the desired size, and they are left to macerate entirely in the barrel.
014SDKezakoCloseup-2.jpg
Carbonic in barrel

Then we were taken to see barrels in which wine was being made the “regular” way (i.e., non carbonic). David said that people think it’s easier to make carbonic, but it’s actually more demanding because the method is more sensitive to picking ripeness. His main concern, when picking, is sweetness of tannins.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
If Vissoux is carbonic or semi-carbonic, stem inclusion is the norm. I have only heard of one wine -- Sébastien David's Kézako -- where the grapes are destemmed before undergoing carbonic maceration.
Is it carbonic?
I don’t know - perhaps another resident here does?

The Chermette.fr site says:

VINIFICATION
The most natural vinification possible, traditional semi-carbonic.
 
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