Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 2-3-23
2021 Soalheiro, Alvarinho - hello vino verde - dissolved CO2/spritz that dissipates quickly to show lovely white fruit and bracing acidity with some depth and a lot more sustain than anticipated. This should actually age short term but still carry its fruit and acidity on a lightweight but intense frame. Equally suited for aperitif or lighter fare, especially seafood. 12% abv.
About $16, retail.
Very good.
2019 Soalheiro, Alvarinho Granit - while, like the preceding wine, most Alvarinho/Albariño are known for their stone fruit flavors with zippy acidity, this wine delivers a bit more. Granite soils set it up for a more mineral driven approach; quite dry, lightly honeyed and a touch salty. Deep textures, complex and a finish measured in minutes. Still crisp but instead of a zippy feeling rather a more structured impression. I’d say it has a long cellar life although it’s lovely now.
From vineyards at about 400 meters elevation; fermented and aged in stainless. A pretty stunning Portuguese white.
About $20, retail.
Superb.
2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy - 100% Pinot Noir although there may be some Caesar interplanted; fermented in stainless, elevage in barrels of all ages for one year; from the aromas and flavors, there is no mistaking this for anything but Burgundy. Morello cherries are dominant in the the nose and mouth but there is structure that references iron and soil.
Opens slightly tight but an hour in the decanter helps; even so, I’d say this has a two decade cellar life if you can keep your hands off. It’s so good now, that will be a challenge.
Complexity comes with air as does full integration, a somewhat Gevrey-esque series of flavor layers emerge and a long, full fruit finish.
Irancy and its vineyards are in an amphitheater and that seems to ensure ripening and protection from the wind. At 13% abv, this gives no indication of over-ripeness and is balanced from first glass to last. So very Burgundy!
About $30, retail.
Superb.
2018 Richoux, Irancy - nothing here says Burgundy but everything speaking says delicious; thick textures that vibrate because the acidity is there, dark cherry and plum smells and flavors that make me think of sun-drenched slopes yet it’s not overripe, amazing length without heat or artifice. It works, yet 15% abv makes me question its age worthiness. My guess: drink sooner rather than later and enjoy a rich, textured Pinot that might be from the continent. Maybe.
About $26, retail.
Excellent.
(Aside: Irancy is an AOC worthy of exploration, especially if $100+ Bourgogne isn’t working for you.)
2012 Cowan Cellars, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - fermented in stainless and aged in French oak all of which was at least ten years old. Elevage for one year.
A winemaker friend had it recently and said it was like drinking ‘80’s William Selyem in the ‘90’s.
It has calmed over the last decade but still has the distinct cranberry/cherry/rhubarb signature of the Valley. Intensely flavored yet silky textures with solid structure and good sustain. If I were to pick a nit, a bit more complexity would be nice. Maybe the next ten years will supply that.
Original retail price was $28.
Excellent.
2021 Extradimensional Wine Co., Mourvèdre Evangelho - decanted two hours in advance but tasted thru the decant; initially sweet-tart aromas and very closed, at one hour no more sweet-tart and starting to open, at two hours, it’s a muscular baby but the Evangelho depth and power is evident and the supporting cast is well on its way to joining the party. This is big, concentrated wine but its considerable complexity distracts from that intensity and brings balance. In five years, this should be pretty grand, at ten, epic - after that, the sky is the limit - and today, it feels like it should last and develop for decades.
About $50, retail.
Superb.
All the below are from Total Wine:
2021 Hermes, Assyrtiko - concentrated, slightly oily/creamy textures with lemon, honeysuckle and saline aromas and flavors with a big hit of acidity that keeps the wine fresh and lively despite its intense textures. Grown in the Peloponnese rather than Santorini. 13% abv.
About $12, retail.
Very good.
2021 Saladini Pilastri, Pecorino - dry, more mineral driven than fruit with acacia and jasmine scents. Medium body, rich yet fresh and good length. 13.5% abv.
About $14, retail.
Very good.
2021 Saladini Pilastri, Falerio - a blend of Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Passerina and Pecorino from vines about 20 years old. Lighter bodied than the foregoing wine with ripe pear tones, some citrus and quite crisp in the mouth. Nice complexity, too. Pretty impressive. 13.5% abv.
About $13, retail.
Excellent.
Best, Jim
2021 Soalheiro, Alvarinho - hello vino verde - dissolved CO2/spritz that dissipates quickly to show lovely white fruit and bracing acidity with some depth and a lot more sustain than anticipated. This should actually age short term but still carry its fruit and acidity on a lightweight but intense frame. Equally suited for aperitif or lighter fare, especially seafood. 12% abv.
About $16, retail.
Very good.
2019 Soalheiro, Alvarinho Granit - while, like the preceding wine, most Alvarinho/Albariño are known for their stone fruit flavors with zippy acidity, this wine delivers a bit more. Granite soils set it up for a more mineral driven approach; quite dry, lightly honeyed and a touch salty. Deep textures, complex and a finish measured in minutes. Still crisp but instead of a zippy feeling rather a more structured impression. I’d say it has a long cellar life although it’s lovely now.
From vineyards at about 400 meters elevation; fermented and aged in stainless. A pretty stunning Portuguese white.
About $20, retail.
Superb.
2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy - 100% Pinot Noir although there may be some Caesar interplanted; fermented in stainless, elevage in barrels of all ages for one year; from the aromas and flavors, there is no mistaking this for anything but Burgundy. Morello cherries are dominant in the the nose and mouth but there is structure that references iron and soil.
Opens slightly tight but an hour in the decanter helps; even so, I’d say this has a two decade cellar life if you can keep your hands off. It’s so good now, that will be a challenge.
Complexity comes with air as does full integration, a somewhat Gevrey-esque series of flavor layers emerge and a long, full fruit finish.
Irancy and its vineyards are in an amphitheater and that seems to ensure ripening and protection from the wind. At 13% abv, this gives no indication of over-ripeness and is balanced from first glass to last. So very Burgundy!
About $30, retail.
Superb.
2018 Richoux, Irancy - nothing here says Burgundy but everything speaking says delicious; thick textures that vibrate because the acidity is there, dark cherry and plum smells and flavors that make me think of sun-drenched slopes yet it’s not overripe, amazing length without heat or artifice. It works, yet 15% abv makes me question its age worthiness. My guess: drink sooner rather than later and enjoy a rich, textured Pinot that might be from the continent. Maybe.
About $26, retail.
Excellent.
(Aside: Irancy is an AOC worthy of exploration, especially if $100+ Bourgogne isn’t working for you.)
2012 Cowan Cellars, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - fermented in stainless and aged in French oak all of which was at least ten years old. Elevage for one year.
A winemaker friend had it recently and said it was like drinking ‘80’s William Selyem in the ‘90’s.
It has calmed over the last decade but still has the distinct cranberry/cherry/rhubarb signature of the Valley. Intensely flavored yet silky textures with solid structure and good sustain. If I were to pick a nit, a bit more complexity would be nice. Maybe the next ten years will supply that.
Original retail price was $28.
Excellent.
2021 Extradimensional Wine Co., Mourvèdre Evangelho - decanted two hours in advance but tasted thru the decant; initially sweet-tart aromas and very closed, at one hour no more sweet-tart and starting to open, at two hours, it’s a muscular baby but the Evangelho depth and power is evident and the supporting cast is well on its way to joining the party. This is big, concentrated wine but its considerable complexity distracts from that intensity and brings balance. In five years, this should be pretty grand, at ten, epic - after that, the sky is the limit - and today, it feels like it should last and develop for decades.
About $50, retail.
Superb.
All the below are from Total Wine:
2021 Hermes, Assyrtiko - concentrated, slightly oily/creamy textures with lemon, honeysuckle and saline aromas and flavors with a big hit of acidity that keeps the wine fresh and lively despite its intense textures. Grown in the Peloponnese rather than Santorini. 13% abv.
About $12, retail.
Very good.
2021 Saladini Pilastri, Pecorino - dry, more mineral driven than fruit with acacia and jasmine scents. Medium body, rich yet fresh and good length. 13.5% abv.
About $14, retail.
Very good.
2021 Saladini Pilastri, Falerio - a blend of Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Passerina and Pecorino from vines about 20 years old. Lighter bodied than the foregoing wine with ripe pear tones, some citrus and quite crisp in the mouth. Nice complexity, too. Pretty impressive. 13.5% abv.
About $13, retail.
Excellent.
Best, Jim
