At the risk of transgressing prevailing definitions of hipster, zero-zero, and kool kid orthodoxy——some (almost) zero sulfur wines from these producers, popular among winos born after 1980, have exceeded my expectations for preservation and development. One miracle bottle led to a pattern, and kept me interested in aging them: Cascina Ulivi, La Biancara, Les Vins Contes.
What about these?——expected to cellar well, no?: Cornelissen, Radikon, Joly, etc. Am I wandering from the hipster idiom? I see them guzzled.
Among the disappointments that have chilled my curiosity came from Souhat, Tschida, and Muster. Bated hope survives for Strekov 1075 whites, la Cave des Nomades, Goyo Garcia Viadero, and Oriol Artigas.
I know practically nothing about USA wines. One exception: a particular mutation of hipster ethos, and I maintain a vigil for it, is Brea (Brockway, Elenteny) Cabernet Sauvignon from the Massa vineyard in Carmel Valley. I'm told there is not enough to allow me an allocation in Michigan. In it I find a cyclical return to classic virtue, enabled——ironically?——by one of the more commercially successful hipster brands (Broc, specifically.) And until I learn more, I'll assume this is the same fruit/terroir that produced two mind blowing vintages of Durney Cabernet in 1978 and 1979, several bottles of which drank beautifully at least through 2010.
Clue me in, Disorder.