Zachary Ross
Zachary Ross
I have been reading Jon Bonné’s The New French Wine, which is outstanding, and he is very enthusiastic about the potential for Languedoc and Roussillon wines, especially white wines. Reading his account of the smaller domaines that are reinvigorating these areas is inspiring, and I have been chasing down a number of his recommendations. The wines of Clos du Gravillas are the first I have opened.
Clos du Gravillas is a husband and wife team in St. Jean de Minervois in the Languedoc and they make a number of wines (something like 18 different wines), mostly from indigenous or traditional Languedoc varieties like carignan, muscat, grenache gris, macabeu, and other under-appreciated cepages. They are bio and experimental, leaning toward shorter macerations in the interest of freshness.
First up was the 2020 Lo Vièlh Carignan de 100 ans, which comes from the Cotes de Brian, and it was quite good with a chalky density, savory and a bit rugged with depth. I am keen on old-vine carignan and this is a nice example, if not the most exciting (compared to, say, Maxime Magnon or Ferrer-Ribière).
The 2022 emmenez-moi au bout de terret, on the other hand, is a revelation. Made from 100% terret gris, an indigenous variety in the Languedoc, this is raised in concrete egg and earthen amphora. The nose is floral, but moreso herbal with tarragon and chives, light melon and sea air. On the palate the wine is light, delicate, utterly clean and fresh, with melon, pear, lemon, herbs, salt, and a sunflower seed nuttiness. Utterly weightless and preposterously moreish. The QPR is off the charts here ($20).
Curiouser is the orange-winey 2022 HAPPY, comme un dimanche à la plage, a Vin de France which is the verjus of terret gris aged on muscat skins. Only 10% abv. Billed as possibly "the most refreshing wine ever made!," I found the wine strange, citrusy and a bit waxy in texture and dominated by muscat's pungent character.
I haven't gotten to the 2021 Côté Obscur (carignan and cabernet sauvignon) or the 2021 Minervois Rendez-vous sur la Lune (carignan, syrah, cinsault) but I expect to in the next few days.
Clos du Gravillas is a husband and wife team in St. Jean de Minervois in the Languedoc and they make a number of wines (something like 18 different wines), mostly from indigenous or traditional Languedoc varieties like carignan, muscat, grenache gris, macabeu, and other under-appreciated cepages. They are bio and experimental, leaning toward shorter macerations in the interest of freshness.
First up was the 2020 Lo Vièlh Carignan de 100 ans, which comes from the Cotes de Brian, and it was quite good with a chalky density, savory and a bit rugged with depth. I am keen on old-vine carignan and this is a nice example, if not the most exciting (compared to, say, Maxime Magnon or Ferrer-Ribière).
The 2022 emmenez-moi au bout de terret, on the other hand, is a revelation. Made from 100% terret gris, an indigenous variety in the Languedoc, this is raised in concrete egg and earthen amphora. The nose is floral, but moreso herbal with tarragon and chives, light melon and sea air. On the palate the wine is light, delicate, utterly clean and fresh, with melon, pear, lemon, herbs, salt, and a sunflower seed nuttiness. Utterly weightless and preposterously moreish. The QPR is off the charts here ($20).
Curiouser is the orange-winey 2022 HAPPY, comme un dimanche à la plage, a Vin de France which is the verjus of terret gris aged on muscat skins. Only 10% abv. Billed as possibly "the most refreshing wine ever made!," I found the wine strange, citrusy and a bit waxy in texture and dominated by muscat's pungent character.
I haven't gotten to the 2021 Côté Obscur (carignan and cabernet sauvignon) or the 2021 Minervois Rendez-vous sur la Lune (carignan, syrah, cinsault) but I expect to in the next few days.
