The Gray Lady weighs in on SF dining

MLipton

Mark Lipton
The NYT today designates the 25 Best Restaurants in SF Right Now. What say you West Coast Disorderlies? There are a few familiar names on their list but a number of places unknown to me. This is of more than academic interest to me as we’ll be taking sabbatical in N Berkeley come Jan 2024.

Mark Lipton
 
Ooo, potential jeebi!

On that list, I've eaten at the following:
Boulevard - Old school-ish, but execution is spot on. A special occasion place.
Nari - Excellent, but it's genuine Thai-spicy. Great wine list, but I can't imagine matching wine with the food. Cocktails are the way to go. Compared to Kin Khao (Pim's other SF restaurant), I feel KK offers more bang for the buck.
Rintaro: For izakaya? Definite yes.

We've been doing a once-a-month (to 6 weeks) let's-try-a-new-restaurant thing with another couple. San Ho Wan is on our short list.

For arguably the best tasting menu that won't break the bank ($79), Penny Roma. The extra added bonus is Trick Dog, one of SF's great cocktail bars, is literally right next door.

Since you're going to be in the East Bay, I can't say enough great things about Belotti in North Oakland. Jim Hanlon will also vouch for it. Me, Sandi, and our friends felt execution-wise, it was on the same level as La Ciccia. Even the simple salad was composed and dressed perfectly. When we asked the waiter which pastas he'd recommend, he said "all of them". He was right.

The other hot East Bay place is Burdell, just opened. I met the chef when a group of us did a Domaine des Cavarodes dinner at Great China.
 
San Ho Won is great. Definitely worth going to -- I really enjoyed the soondae pajeon. Flavors aren't as punchy as in a neighborhood Korean BBQ joint, but it more than makes up for that with the precision of the cooking. I still think its hard to get into, even on weekdays.

Tbh, the one can't miss restaurant in the Bay Area is Sushi Yoshizumi. In my opinion, just as good as Yoshino or Shion in NYC, though Yoshizumi really shines with his hikarimono (his sardine and mackerel are phenomenal). I notice he typically only serves his gizzard shad as an add-on, but that's definitely a must-have. Tuna is good, but not as good as I had at Yoshino or Shion.

The NY Times list is pretty good -- I've been to most of those places and all of those I've been to are worth going to:

The chicken kabob at Beit Rima is my post-yoga Sunday supper; a great takeout option.

Cotogna has reliably tasty pasta -- egg ravioli is awesome.

Benu has very precise, technical cooking, but it's a little stodgy, in my opinion. I prefer Singlethread in Healdsburg for their bigger flavors. But Benu worth going to if you are up for splurging.

Daeho's braised short rib dish is quite tasty, but I usually go there for the beef bone broth soup; beef quality is high and both are very tasty. However banchan is subpar, but that is par for the course for SF Korean food. For Korean, there are pretty good places in Santa Clara/South Bay if you're looking for punchy, rustic flavors (San Ho Won is a totally different beast -- it's doing its own thing).

La Taqueria probably has the best Mission burrito (as article notes, get it dorado), but it isn't that much better than Taqueria Cancun (al pastor), Castillito (carnitas), or Farolito (burritos good, quesadillas better) -- specifically, the locations on Mission Street in the Mission. I would actually try to go to El Gallo Giro, a taco truck in the Mission -- burritos are excellent, but they really shine with their tacos. An al pastor stand on Mission that is usually set up around 18th street is also quite good -- only open on weekends.

It's been a long time since I've been to El Buen Comer, but the stews and braises there were really good, and different than a lot of other Mexican places in SF.

Liholiho has a great vibe and really creative food -- off menu Spam musubi is a lot of fun, but everything is good. Large format platters are memorable.

The Progress is awesome and relatively easier to get a reservation than Statebird Provisions. Though, I was able to walk in at Statebird last week at 6pm on a Saturday, so you can always try your luck. Statebird is definitely a place you should go to at least once for the experience, though the food at the Progress is just as good.

Yunbao Jiaozi has very good dumplings, and its cool to see the cooks make the dumplings behind the plexiglass (pig ear salad is very good). Can be a bit of a wait. There are a lot of other great Chinese places in the Sunset and Richmond to explore too, dumplings and otherwise (Terra Cotta Warrior, Old Islamic, House of Pancake, etc. etc..). The Chinese in the Avenues is definitely better than in Chinatown.

Roast chicken and bread salad is still great at Zuni. Octavia, similarly, is also still very good.

Shuggie's is ok, but its definitely a bit kitsch and leaning hard into the natural wine trend. I'm not sure it's worth a detour.

I also agree with what Larry said about Nari, Rintaro and Belotti. I've never been to Penny Roma (though I get the sandwiches at the pasta shop after I go climbing at my gym on weekends -- pork sandwich with broccoli raab is good); but I enjoy its sister restaurant Flour and Water a lot. Delfina and Che Fico also have similar Cal-Italian vibes.

Noodle in a Haystack and Prik Hom are on my to-do list.
 
I've only been to Nari once in November 2019.I didn't find it spicy at all. A Mattias Hirtzberger Reisling was a great match for the whole roasted poussin (or maybe a different bird , cant remember). It was one of the better meals I had that year.
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:


Tbh, the one can't miss restaurant in the Bay Area is Sushi Yoshizumi. In my opinion, just as good as Yoshino or Shion in NYC, though Yoshizumi really shines with his hikarimono (his sardine and mackerel are phenomenal). I notice he typically only serves his gizzard shad as an add-on, but that's definitely a must-have. Tuna is good, but not as good as I had at Yoshino or Shion.

I've been to Yoshizumi twice pre-pandemic. It was great, but the cost has gone into the stratosphere. Both times, I went with Robert Driscoll who is kind of the Norm (Norm!) of that restaurant. I am quite sure he's been there many more times than anyone. Last time, we did the extended Omakase and brought 3 bottles of Champagne (IIRC, we were charged corkage on 2 bottles). Even with all that, the bill out the door was $400 each. Now, the cost starts at $325 before tax, tip, alcohol.
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
I've only been to Nari once in November 2019.I didn't find it spicy at all. A Mattias Hirtzberger Reisling was a great match for the whole roasted poussin (or maybe a different bird , cant remember). It was one of the better meals I had that year.

I think it depends on what you get -- the whole bird curry, for example, was not too spicy. However, some of the appetizers have a real kick.

What makes Nari particularly interesting to me is the fermented, funky, tangy, acidic flavors. Delicious, but I can see why that would be challenging to pair with wine.
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
originally posted by Yule Kim:


Tbh, the one can't miss restaurant in the Bay Area is Sushi Yoshizumi. In my opinion, just as good as Yoshino or Shion in NYC, though Yoshizumi really shines with his hikarimono (his sardine and mackerel are phenomenal). I notice he typically only serves his gizzard shad as an add-on, but that's definitely a must-have. Tuna is good, but not as good as I had at Yoshino or Shion.

I've been to Yoshizumi twice pre-pandemic. It was great, but the cost has gone into the stratosphere. Both times, I went with Robert Driscoll who is kind of the Norm (Norm!) of that restaurant. I am quite sure he's been there many more times than anyone. Last time, we did the extended Omakase and brought 3 bottles of Champagne (IIRC, we were charged corkage on 2 bottles). Even with all that, the bill out the door was $400 each. Now, the cost starts at $325 before tax, tip, alcohol.

Yeah, its gotten quite expensive -- though compared to the NYC sushi shops, a relative bargain.

I haven't been back in about a year because getting a reservation is such a titanic pain -- I'm hoping to go in November for Kawahagi season, but they usually only accept reservations for two, and its hard for me to find someone willing to go. It's definitely not a first date place, lol.
 
Thanks to all of you for the very informed discussion. I look forward to finding a time to explore one or more of these places in a jeebus.

Mark Lipton
 
I apologize ahead for anyone who thinks i am casting shade on their restaurant preferences and acumen re SingleThread, but I just don't understand the love thrown towards this restaurant.
Four of us went once late last year, and we would be more than happy to revisit if we are comped (transportation fees included in the deal) and the staff sings us a happy birthday ditty.
My companions are quite competent to pass judgment. Yes, the meal was fine, but SingleThread was lacking in multiple ways (attitude / service / component quality) that remove it from any restaurant pantheon consideration. Key is that it is an "experience" (not about enjoying a meal together with friends but a "aren't you lucky that we let you eat here") that is all about them and seemingly passing attention to the guest.
Our judgment may more reflect what our dining expectations are given that we are all past 60 years old and a place like SingleThread is not a new vista to enjoy. And again, I can see how a person could love this place, but SingleThread received 4 strikes from us! I also will note in our defense that we thought maybe we caught them on a bad night (root day?), but we mentioned this to our same age friends who had their friends say very similar things.... and we also have 2 friends that ate there not much after our date, and they thought it was a highlight of their dining career. they are in their early 30s
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
I apologize ahead for anyone who thinks i am casting shade on their restaurant preferences and acumen re SingleThread, but I just don't understand the love thrown towards this restaurant.
Four of us went once late last year, and we would be more than happy to revisit if we are comped (transportation fees included in the deal) and the staff sings us a happy birthday ditty.
My companions are quite competent to pass judgment. Yes, the meal was fine, but SingleThread was lacking in multiple ways (attitude / service / component quality) that remove it from any restaurant pantheon consideration. Key is that it is an "experience" (not about enjoying a meal together with friends but a "aren't you lucky that we let you eat here") that is all about them and seemingly passing attention to the guest.
Our judgment may more reflect what our dining expectations are given that we are all past 60 years old and a place like SingleThread is not a new vista to enjoy. And again, I can see how a person could love this place, but SingleThread received 4 strikes from us! I also will note in our defense that we thought maybe we caught them on a bad night (root day?), but we mentioned this to our same age friends who had their friends say very similar things.... and we also have 2 friends that ate there not much after our date, and they thought it was a highlight of their dining career. they are in their early 30s

I'm sorry to hear that you had a bad experience. Granted, last time I went was pre-pandemic, but I thought the service was very good and the food, in my opinion, was excellent (the best I had at any of the 2 or 3 star Michelin places in the Bay Area I've been to). Certainly possible standards have slipped since then, though they seemed like a well-oiled machine when I went.

I do agree with you that it is meant to be more of an "experience," then a meal, feeling like a piece of theatre that can go on too long. But, I think that is a problem with most tasting-menu restaurants, and despite that, I would go back. Just getting up to Healdsburg for me is a bit of a trek.
 
I would second or third the recommendation on Belotti--all of the pastas are great, although I can rarely resist the Agnolotti di Lidia. But their menu rarely changes, but I guess if it is so good, why should it?

I would recommend Via del Corso in Berkeley--menu changes every couple of months, and their fresh pasta has been great recently. No decent stemware there though, so I bring my own.

Chez Panisse last time I tried was back up at the top of their game...

Also consistently good food at Wood Tavern--they are only running a single fresh pasta now, but it is very good. And their sister restaurant down on Piedmont Avenue in Oakland is also consistently good, and possessing of a slightly better wine list.

Rarely visited in SF apparently, but I always thought Poesia in the Castro District was very good for their fresh pastas.

Need to go back to Cotogna...
 
originally posted by Carl Steefel:


I would recommend Via del Corso in Berkeley--menu changes every couple of months, and their fresh pasta has been great recently. No decent stemware there though, so I bring my own.

Chez Panisse last time I tried was back up at the top of their game...

And their sister restaurant down on Piedmont Avenue in Oakland is also consistently good, and possessing of a slightly better wine list.

Went to Via del Corso recently with Steve Edmunds, Eric Lundblad, and Ken Zinns. I thought it was quite good, but I feel Belotti is a step above.

The Wolf is the restaurant you're thinking of. Went with Yule (at least, I think Yule was there. I've definitely dined with him there!), Jim Hanlon, and Rahsaan several months ago. It's a regular haunt of Jim's so we get treated quite well, corkage-wise.

Chez Panisse: Café or restaurant? Honestly, I've never been wowed by the restaurant, even when I went back in the 80s. Nothing wrong with it, but it always felt like you were presented with high quality ingredients with cooking that wasn't very imaginative. Love the Café. Same ingredient quality and the dishes are much more interesting.
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:

The Wolf is the restaurant you're thinking of. Went with Yule (at least, I think Yule was there. I've definitely dined with him there!), Jim Hanlon, and Rahsaan several months ago. It's a regular haunt of Jim's so we get treated quite well, corkage-wise...

Yule was not at the dinner I attended. It was you, Jim and Everett. But otherwise, as you say, nice place!
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Larry Stein:

The Wolf is the restaurant you're thinking of. Went with Yule (at least, I think Yule was there. I've definitely dined with him there!), Jim Hanlon, and Rahsaan several months ago. It's a regular haunt of Jim's so we get treated quite well, corkage-wise...

Yule was not at the dinner I attended. It was you, Jim and Everett. But otherwise, as you say, nice place!

Yeah, I went to the dinner last year with Brad Kane. Great pork chop!
 
Yes, I have never actually been downstairs to Chez Panisse, so I am always thinking of the Cafe (which is a real restaurant).

Wolf and Wood Tavern often will waive corkage, either a decision by one of the staff, or more likely the owner Rich Woods (he tasted the 2011 Conterno Barbera I brought the other day).

Another plus in favor of Belotti is their well-priced and extensive wine list, partly making up for the fact that their menu never changes. But they have an advantage over Corso there, and they provide real stemware as well...
 
The other issue with Belotti is the difficulty in getting a table (in contrast to Corso). Add to that the $75 No Show credit card fee, which is pretty much of a joke that it is difficult to get a table there and there is always a line of poor starved Oaklanders trying to walk in...
 
I very much so agree with Larry Stein (hereafter referred to as LS) regarding the downstairs restaurant at Chez Panisse (hereafter referred to as CP). We ended up going 3 times in the late 80s and early 90s and did not understand the fuss. A copascetic dining experience for sure but not one to motivate a 1 hour drive for a meal, especially since you could pretty much make a bunch of the stuff they did relatively easily at home. We share that recipe with CP : great quality components and don't screw it up. And The French Laundry (hereafter referred to as TFL) opening in 1994 put the kabosh on many a drive to the Bay Area, given the original cost at TFL of being less than or equivalent to Bay Area fine dining establishments during TFL's first 5-10 years plus living a block to the east*.

We are going to Belotti soon and are quite excited. We loved Cotogna but the noise level is offensive and hence detrimental to solving the world's problems, so it is doubtful we would willingly return unless coaxed by a complementary meal and resolution to all wars.

La Ciccia** is a favorite restaurant and virtually a rite of passage for entertaining out of town guests. Lorella, Max and their staff made it like being in their home, and that warmth was the key ingredient, and that is why we returned to the scene of the crime again and again. With reference to food as the draw, it is similar to CP in that the sentimental nature was the primary inducement and not as much the food. I would repeatedly dine at CP like we did at La Ciccia if there was a sentimental reason for doing so, like having had dinner there on the same day the 9ers won their first Super Bowl. The food was quite good at La Ciccia, but again, it was home cooking done very well. And there were certain La Ciccia dishes that were problematic. Our friend Richard Hilkert*** joined us for dinner once, and my gosh, he is a no agenda straight shooter. If you ask his opinion, you will get it without a dodge. And staff asked how everything was with the clear practiced expectation of receiving nothing but happy happy replies, and was taken aback when Richard matter-of-factly said the steak was tough. And it was, as it usually was. I always rue missing the chance I had to forewarn him, but who is to deny a man of the people his steak!

We should note 2 of our current favorites because remarking on others choices feels a bit hit and runnish. Rintaro and Kenzo. Rintaro has already captured hearts, minds and gastrointestinal tracts of the many who frequent this space, and the huge plus of being next door to Rainbow Grocery (don't sleep on the Franklin teleme). We love Kenzo, and although we don't have the broad experience to compare with other Japanese kaiseki meals and would not be surprised to hear of less favorable Kenzo reports, we find the food is great and we have a sentimental attachment to the staff and they have been more than good to us and it's 15 minutes away and.... gosh, we feel just so fortunate to eat there. we go there happy and leave more happy. why go elsewhere.

* In a pensive moment, Lou Kessler opined that TFL was the best restaurant he had ever been to, and oh boy, that guy got around... certainly in my top 4.
** Initials will not be employed out of undying respect for this wonderful institution and desire to return many a time
** He of the bookstore across the street from Hayes Street Grill
 
Who orders steak at La Ciccia?! Lamb, yes. Always.

Has anyone been since Lorella and Massimo sold it? I read that only one person in the kitchen left so theoretically, it should be the same, food-wise.
 
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