CA Pinots Versus a Blah Burg -- 4/5/24

Yule Kim

Yule Kim
Friday dinner at a neighborhood bistro with some of my more Orderly (un-disorderly?) wine friends, most of whom are still in the California-collecting, honeymoon phase of their wine journey.

We decided on doing a Pinot dinner, everyone bringing a wine from a different region. Somehow, despite that directive, we ended up with two people bringing Pinots from the Anderson Valley (the Rhys and the Black Kite), one wine from the Sonoma Coast (the Cobb), and the guy who was supposed to bring the Oregon Pinot double-booking a karate class with his girlfriend, and thus showing up late with a Syrah from the Edna Valley.

I don't drink much domestic Pinot, so it was a good opportunity to get some exposure to wines I've never had before (Rhys and Cobb for example). Despite most of the folks being younger, California-focused collectors, everyone agreed that the Volnay I brought was the wine of the night. However, the race for second place was interesting, with two people voting for the Black Kite, the person who brought the Cobb voting for the Cobb, and me picking the Rhys (with the Cobb third and the Black Kite fourth). The Karate Kid outright refused to try the Cobb and was badgered by his buddy into taking a sip of the Black Kite. He did seem to think the Rhys was ok because he tried it, so I'm guessing Rhys was second for him by default.

Tasting notes below:

'06 Lucien Boillot Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets: Fairly ripe smelling on the nose (a touch of cola?) with the palate smoky and densely dark fruited (almost plummy). The finish has a touch of grip from the mostly resolved tannins. Good acidity and fairly elegant weight on the palate, but the wine seems a little four-square and perhaps too ripe. However, this case study of blah red Burgundy is still clearly the group’s WOTN, a testament to how good Burgundy can be when it is not even really that good for Burgundy.

'16 Rhys Pinot Noir Porcupine Hill: Relatively restrained, with shimmering dark red fruit on the palate with subtle hints of cola. Texturally creamy on the palate, it takes time for the tannins to assert themselves and provide some needed grip. A straightforward wine that is perhaps a bit simple, but pleasant.

'18 Cobb Pinot Noir Calera Selection Doc’s Ranch Vineyard: Big, dark, cola-inflected fruit, and a luscious, fleshy texture with polished tannins which already feel resolved. However, there is good acidity and it does not feel ponderous or clumsy despite its flavors being dialed up to 11. It’s not really my preference, but it is well-made wine (no hints of VA here at all).

'15 Black Kite Pinot Noir Redwoods’ Edge: WTF? On the first sip, smacked in the mouth with huge, scorched, toasty, pruney fruit. I really wished there was a dump bucket, but I managed to power my way through it and was glad I didn’t take a big pour. Yikes, not good.

'20 Maison Les Alexandrins Croze-Hermitage: Purchased off the wine list. Straightforward, gluggable red wine that seems tailored made to be an affordable option at a neighborhood bistro. Drinkable, but boring.

'19 Alban Vineyards Syrah Lorraine: Screechy, thin, and fruitless on the palate. I had initially assumed this wine was produced in some marginal microclimate, so I was surprised to find out that this producer is known primarily for making thermonuclear fruit bombs. This was the complete opposite of that. The bottle had been Coravined and was half-empty when uncorked, so I’m assuming the headspace had allowed the wine to oxidize and close up. Weird, but I have to reserve judgment on this wine. Does make me glad I don’t own a Coravin. (Side note: I was shocked at how much this cost when I looked it up; this is pricier than Jamet).
 
I think you'd find many other Santa Cruz Mountain AVA Pinots to your taste. One exception to that rule is Ladd Cellars. Eric Lundblad sources his grapes from RRV and Sonoma Coast. They age very well. I'm now opening 2008-10s from him. The one aspect I really dislike in CA Pinot is the cola element. So many RRV Pinots exhibit that. Eric's wines don't.

No doubt there are others, but those are the ones I have the most experience with.
 
Thanks, Yule, for the report. (It essentially conforms to my opinions so of course I'm happy.) Might be a little unfair to compare young-ish wines with an '06 but so it goes.

The semi-annual D&D game took place in RRV a whole bunch of times so, down through the years, we've drunk a lot of RRV pinot. I am done with cola in my wine. I appreciate that it's the terroir but I can leave it for other people.
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:

'18 Cobb Pinot Noir Calera Selection Doc’s Ranch Vineyard: Big, dark, cola-inflected fruit, and a luscious, fleshy texture with polished tannins which already feel resolved. However, there is good acidity and it does not feel ponderous or clumsy despite its flavors being dialed up to 11. It’s not really my preference, but it is well-made wine (no hints of VA here at all).
By "Calera selection", does this mean it's from Calera's old vineyards, some renamed section? Or that it was planted with cuttings selected from Calera?
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
originally posted by Yule Kim:

'18 Cobb Pinot Noir Calera Selection Doc’s Ranch Vineyard: Big, dark, cola-inflected fruit, and a luscious, fleshy texture with polished tannins which already feel resolved. However, there is good acidity and it does not feel ponderous or clumsy despite its flavors being dialed up to 11. It’s not really my preference, but it is well-made wine (no hints of VA here at all).
By "Calera selection", does this mean it's from Calera's old vineyards, some renamed section? Or that it was planted with cuttings selected from Calera?

"Calera" refers to the Calera clone -- Doc's Ranch Vineyard is planted with four clones: Pommard, 114, Swan, and Calera. Normally, there are two blends: Pommard/114 and Swan/Calera, but in 2018, Ross Cobb decided to also do a single-clone selection with only Calera clone fruit. (pulled this info from an old Wine Advocate tasting note)
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thanks, Yule, for the report. (It essentially conforms to my opinions so of course I'm happy.) Might be a little unfair to compare young-ish wines with an '06 but so it goes.

The semi-annual D&D game took place in RRV a whole bunch of times so, down through the years, we've drunk a lot of RRV pinot. I am done with cola in my wine. I appreciate that it's the terroir but I can leave it for other people.

Yeah, the cola/confected note was hard to get past. I imagine these wines' cola notes are not quite as pronounced as in RRV, but still very much there. Still always happy to try new wines and gather more data points.
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
I think you'd find many other Santa Cruz Mountain AVA Pinots to your taste. One exception to that rule is Ladd Cellars. Eric Lundblad sources his grapes from RRV and Sonoma Coast. They age very well. I'm now opening 2008-10s from him. The one aspect I really dislike in CA Pinot is the cola element. So many RRV Pinots exhibit that. Eric's wines don't.

No doubt there are others, but those are the ones I have the most experience with.

Yes, I definitely want to explore SCM. My friend was going to get a SCM pinot, but couldn't find one, so settled on the Anderson Valley Rhys. Hopefully we will get to try an SCM next time!
 
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