TN: The Virtual Tasting #41 (Apr 11, 2024)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don, Eden, Jay, Jeff, Lisa, Marty, Victor

Lisa and Seth pour.

Before we begin, Lisa issues "a serious warning" about the vinous experience she has placed before us. Of course, it is too late to flee so this is merely that time-honored tradition of tormenting your friends. (If not your friends, then who can you torment?)

We begin with the two Yellow-tagged bottles:

Victor dashes to the top of a nearby anthill and plants the flag: "They're both red!". (Yes.)

Yellow #1 - "Pyrazines!" -Marty; "Rubber!" -Jeff; "Bottle sweetness, therefore mature" -Don; "Brighter than #2" -Victor; we eventually place the wine in South Africa and soon after peg it as pinotage; the group likes the earthy, meaty aromas while I just can't get past the factory floor taste of it - Kanonkop 1997 Pinotage

Yellow #2 - "Brothy" -Melissa; and cloudy, with some dark chocolate in the finish; this is recognizably Cotes du Rhone (Yes.), nobody guesses Cairanne (does anyone know CdR that well?) and is surviving way past its expected lifespan - Dom. Rabasse-Charavin (Corinne Couturier) 1997 Cairanne, Cotes du Rhone Villages, "Cuvee D'Estevenas"

Next up: The first Blue-tagged wine, but not the second (due to the opaque demands of theming).

Blue #1 - "Sweet nose" -Marty; "Juicy-Fruit or Band-Aid in the nose" -Melissa; I agree that there is a whiff of brett in the nose but it is very faint. We get the place and cepage pretty quickly, despite Lisa's best efforts to lead us astray ("No, really, guys, I think there's grenache...") - Joel Taluau 1997 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil VV

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Seth's themes must be a little less convoluted as we follow the obvious path and open A and B together, then C and D together.

Tag A - "Bark" -Melissa (Woof.), this is vaguely unpleasant, whatever it is; kinda flat, aromas and flavor somewhere between an old leather slipper and laundry detergent; others confirm a 'hints at soap' aspect to the wine - Dom. M. Gaunoux 2003 Pommard 1er "Rugiens"

Tag B - well, this couldn't be more different: this wine smells like after-shave, maybe mixed with a little amaro or quinine; I guess that's some serious barrel-program talking (sufficiently tannic for Don to ask "So tannic, is this a black wine of Cahors?") - Dom. de Courcel 2004 Pommard 1er "Grand Clos des Epenots"

Seth says these are both pinot noirs from Burgundy! Yikes. Hm. We take the tannic roughness seriously and start guessing in Pommard (Yes.). We eventually get the vintages and we think that might explain the after-shave: that's what the Green-Meanies turn into!

Moving on.

Tag C - 14%, tired palate, mildly oxi, but a huge finish; in fact, an incredible finish - Paul Pernot 2005 Puligny-Montrachet 1er "Les Pucelles"

Tag D - a whole lot fresher, "Minty, fresh, and light" -Victor - Dom. H. Boillot 2005 Puligny-Montrachet 1er "Les Pucelles"

We guess chard pretty quickly and we're even reasonably sure this is White Burgundy but none of us is an admirer of the type so it takes a lot of guesses to get our collective butts into Puligny.

Retrying these the next night, the Pernot has gotten a lot more aromatic, and there is now plenty of acidity and the whole flavor profile is brighter (still a little oxidation in the finish) but much improved. The Boillot is about the same as it was, not so grand as the Pernot but stylish with a good-not-great finish.

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OK, nothing left but hardcore theme wines and sweeties. Diving in.

Lisa admits that her 1997 theme does not extend to the Red-tagged bottles. Their theme is this:

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Ah, I see. Lisa says the right-hand one should go last of all so we'll intermix Lisa bottles and Seth bottles:

Red #2 - I know I have had this wine before! It's a funky pink wine so I first guess Cotat, as one does. (No.) Let's look more closely. The wine is cloudy. More a pinky-red than just pink. Really, really sulfury. (Spotlessly clean of bacterial problems, therefore.) Acidity is robust and kinda tweaky... wait a sec. I guess "Poulsard?" (Some.) "Poulsard and Trousseau?" (Yes.) "Overnoy???" - Overnoy 1993 Arbois-Pupillin

I tried it the next night and it was unchanged. If you had this much sulfur stirred into you, you wouldn't be changing, either.

The previous sighting of this bottling from this source (Coad's sister's basement): click

That was 7 years ago. No wonder this label looks like it does.

Next:

Blue 2 - Yah, it's chenin blanc from 1997. Takes three tries to guess Foreau (no prizes for knowing what the first two guesses were). The wine is lovely, delicately sweet and floral in the nose, not sweet at all on the palate; so that's a Demi-Sec. - Foreau 1997 Vouvray Demi-Sec

Tasted the next day, this is still so good: the floral nose is enticing, then there's sturdy acidity and, I'll say it, dryness on the palate. I bet this is a great pleasure at the table.

Tag E - 9.5%, "Wow!" -Jay. "Riesling" -Victor. "Fantastic!" -Jay. This is a beauty: tons of acids, green grapes and oregano, might be a sweet Spat or a not-too-crazy Auslese; someone says the acidity is like eating Kool-Aid powder as a kid; we guess MSR pretty quickly and von Schubert, too, but we miss the vintage; "clearly 1990, the pine needle and menthol make it distinctive" -Seth - Maximin Grunhaus (C. von Schubert) 1990 Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese

Red #1 - Chenin? (Yes.) Vouvray? (No.) Coteaux-du-Layon? (Yes; it's so nice to have Specialist Don around for these occasions!). Baumard? (Yes; Jay is good at it, too). A little dark, a little caramelly, not quite the guts (structure, minerality) that a similarly sweet Vouvray would have but I'm not spilling it out of my glass... - Dom. des Baumard 2000 Coteaux du Layon "Le Paon"

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Thank you to everyone for a fun evening.

PS. Go back and click on the picture of the tatty bottles to see what the labels should look like.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Yellow #2 - "Brothy" -Melissa; and cloudy, with some dark chocolate in the finish; this is recognizably Cotes du Rhone (Yes.), nobody guesses Cairanne (does anyone know CdR that well?) and is surviving way past its expected lifespan - Dom. Rabasse-Charavin (Corinne Couturier) 1997 Cairanne, Cotes du Rhone Villages, "Cuvee D'Estevenas"

unlikely to have guessed cairanne in general, but would not rule out spotting rabasse-charavin since hers were the house reds around 2002-2005

as far as expectations, according to back-of-envelope calculations the 97 would have been 100% grenache from 99-year old vines. so why the hell not. i polished off my last 98 recently and oddly it sounds like the 97 has done at least as well.

big fan of d'estevenas but it's not for lovers of red-fruited grenache of rayas persuasion
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Blue 2 - Yah, it's chenin blanc from 1997. Takes three tries to guess Foreau (no prizes for knowing what the first two guesses were). The wine is lovely, delicately sweet and floral in the nose, not sweet at all on the palate; so that's a Demi-Sec. - Foreau 1997 Vouvray Demi-Sec

I repeatedly told Chris to buy this on release and he did. I believe he even mentioned that fact in one of his write-ups.

No mention of Yaniger's classic note on the '93 Overnoy from back in 2000? No need to Google...

"Nathan pulls out an odd-looking bottle, a present from Joe Dressner, the infamous ’93 Overnoy Arbois Pupillon. Never look a gift horse in the mouth, but at the same time, no need to stick your face in its butt. Lightish color, showing plenty of signs of oxidation, despite the huge sulfur content, both free and bound, not to mention an interesting mix of mercaptans. Imagine, if you will, shoving an M-80 up the hind parts of a skunk, shoving the skunk up the hind parts of a sweaty shepherdess with a yeast infection and on her period. Now the explosion ensues- catch her week-old thong (a gift from Brad Kane) as it flies by. Give it a good hard sniff and contemplate the layers of aroma. Voila! You have the Overnoy. It was all I could do to actually taste it. And I’m (gag!) pleased to report that (gag!) the flavor was consistent with the aroma. Well, at least if you mix in some battery acid. A wine too dirty for me to enjoy- contemplate that and be very, very afraid.

This Overnoy says a lot about Joe Dressner. Some clever guy would taste this and buy a bottle as a gag gift. Joe, ever the man truly committed to humor, actually bought this in quantity, imported it, and sells it for money. THAT is the kind of dedication and willingness to go the extra yard for a laugh that sets him apart from his fellow Man. Many thanks, Joe!"

When I was at Garnet and we had this in stock and open on a shelf in the cold room downstairs, David Lilie Literally told me to be careful walking around the bottles as he didn't know what would happen.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:

When I was at Garnet and we had this in stock and open on a shelf in the cold room downstairs, David Lilie Literally told me to be careful walking around the bottles as he didn't know what would happen.

fuck yeah!

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