Huet-A-Thon (Bay Area Edition) -- 4/20/24

Yule Kim

Yule Kim
It was a wonderful afternoon at JD's place, a friend of Mark A., who generously offered us his home to host Huet-a-Thon, the Bay Area edition.

JD and ND prepared some excellent dishes for us to enjoy, highlights including seared scallops, a panoply of homemade charcuterie (both sausage and air-dried meats), vegetables dishes, and some smoked fish. But the crown jewel of the evening was an ornate gingerbread, aged for six months in the refrigerator, which had more spices in it than the desert world of Arrakis (you may behold its wonder below).

Great to reconnect with Mark A. and Larry, and great to meet BJ and Mrs. BJ IRL, as the kids say.

Thanks again for organizing Mark! It was a blast.

Sparkling

NV Champagne Haton Brut Rose: A bright, refreshing, aperitif-style champagne with strawberry, cherry, and brambly red fruit flavors and aromas. This is easy-going and eminently sippable. Uncomplicated, but so fun on a sunny day.

‘17 Huet Petillant Brut: Crisp and tense with a delicate mousse and notes of apple and citrus on the nose with a firm mineral spine on the palate. Very enjoyable and gluggable.

Sec

‘96 Huet Le Mont Sec: Razor sharp, precise and strongly mineral on the palate with hints of citrus. Just so electric and taut. On the nose, I’m getting beeswax, lanolin, and lemons. One of the older wines at the table, but in terms of color and freshness, you could easily mistake it as one of the youngest. This is so alive and vibrant. Another fabulous ‘96 from Huet.

‘02 Huet Le Mont Sec: This seems advanced, with a strong sherry note on the nose and a very dark color; however, while there’s a little almond nuttiness on the palate, it is still lively with sharp acidity. Having a wine as fresh as the ‘96 with this wine probably did it no favors.

Demi-Sec

‘10 Huet Clos de Bourg Demi-Sec: I get a little sherry on the nose, but it blows off. On the palate, I’m reminded of orange marmalade, a combination of sweet and citric sourness with a hint of pleasing bitterness on the finish. Texturally, rounder and softer than the ‘02 and ‘96. This may be in a wormhole hurtling towards a better place, but it is rather pleasurable right now.

‘15 Huet Clos de Bourg Demi-Sec: Relatively fresh on the nose with no hint of sherry, but rather a subtle hint of lanolin. Racy, well-integrated acidity on the palate with notes of citrus, bitterness and spice. This is surprisingly dry tasting to me.

Premiere Trie

‘02 Huet Clos de Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie: This was absolutely stunning. Notably less sherried and much fresher on the nose than the ‘02 Demi-Sec. Lively and complex on the palate with a wonderful balance of tertiary notes and receding white fruit and citrus flavors. The acidity is very much on point and makes the sweetness less pronounced (this drinks more like a demi-sec). Surpasses the ‘96 Le Mont Sec by a hair for Wine of the Day.

‘97 Huet Clos de Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie: The nose is a little mute, with perhaps a subtle hint of apple, and a little funk. There’s still good acidity, but it’s a little softer than other wines on the table. It has a round, broad-shouldered texture (at least compared to the other Huets) with a little nuttiness.

Red

‘94 Edmunds St. John Les Cotes Sauvage: Anise and licorice, herbs, and menthol on the nose. Elegant and delicate weight on the palate that has sunny California fruit mixed with Rhone-ish herbal complexity. There’s also earthiness, and a touch of smoke mid-palate and a hit of peppery spiciness on the finish. Bravo, this is in a great place right now.

Cuvee Constance

‘93 Huet Cuvée Constance: The nose is subtle, with some mix of citrus, apricot, and honey. The palate is rather restrained, polished with a well integrated acidity that makes the wine feel more off-dry than a proper dessert wine. There is a pleasing bitterness and sourness, like orange marmalade, mixed in with a complex salinity that reminds me of quinine (club soda) on the finish. There was a raging debate whether this is a true Constance since it was later labeled a Le Haut Lieu Moelleux 1er Trie. Definitely not as intense as the ‘95, but very satisfying in its own, slightly schizophrenic way, oscillating somewhere between sweet and savory. It actually reminds me of a ‘94 de Fargues Sauternes I had once, which had a similar saline, orange marmalade, off-dry quality to it.

‘95 Huet Cuvée Constance: Super powerful nose of apricot, honey, and orange zest. Viscous mouthfeel with intense fruit and sweetness on the palate balanced with invigorating acidity that keeps the wine light on its feet. Long finish with a satisfying jolt of refreshing sourness. Absolutely beautiful.

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Thanks for the report, Yule!

Those '96s seem to be rock-crushers - always good.

And that's a good-looking gingerbread cake. Can the baker tell us some more about it?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thanks for the report, Yule!

Those '96s seem to be rock-crushers - always good.

And that's a good-looking gingerbread cake. Can the baker tell us some more about it?

Gingerbread was a JD creation. Perhaps Mark A. will be able to get a report from him about the gingerbread.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thanks for the report, Yule!

Those '96s seem to be rock-crushers - always good.

My experience is that (premox aside) 1996 was an amazing vintage for an arc of northern European appellations starting mid-Loire though Chablis and Champagne, Alsace and much of the Mosel-Rhein-Pfalz. So many great wines.
 
Great selection of wines and wonderful reportage, Yule. I am sorry that I couldn’t participate but will console myself with the Patrick Bailey bobblehead that I received on the day he went 4-4, HR, 3 RBI (and have the sunburn to prove it).

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thanks for the report, Yule!

Those '96s seem to be rock-crushers - always good.

My experience is that (premox aside) 1996 was an amazing vintage for an arc of northern European appellations starting mid-Loire though Chablis and Champagne, Alsace and much of the Mosel-Rhein-Pfalz. So many great wines.

The 1996 Huet was indeed brilliant. I lack a broad experience in the plethora of wine available along the multi-kilometer meandering Loire River, but is the 1996 style of the uuu-et atypical for their chenin blanc, let alone anywhere else along the river ?

Our experience is that 1996 Mosel wines, apart from barely balanced Prüm offerings, never lost the malic acid hardness even after 20 years or so and were not enjoyable (except on release when the exuberant fruit offset the acidity). Hence they did not curry favor in this household, even when paired with Japanese curry. We drank them up or sold them or served them to people we knew disliked prädikat German wines (so as to buttress their confirmation bias).

Some highfalutin 1996 pinot noir wines from Burgundy were clearly marred by the high acidity. The 1996 Rousseau Ruchottes (or was it the Clos St. Jacques) imbibed 6 years ago comes to mind. I surmise this region is south of the afore mentioned arc.

We can not speak to Champagne as, for religious reasons, we do not drink them.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Great selection of wines and wonderful reportage, Yule. I am sorry that I couldn’t participate but will console myself with the Patrick Bailey bobblehead that I received on the day he went 4-4, HR, 3 RBI (and have the sunburn to prove it).

Mark Lipton

Indeed, yeoman work from Yule! Thank you Yule!!!

And we did commiserate about the lack of rain and thus the lack of Lipton representation, but pleased to know that you were able to have a wonderful experience north of us.
 
Excellent notes indeed Yule, I didn't see you writing so you have a great memory. I resonate with much of what you said.

I must say what an wonderful jeeb, the Mme and I had a terrific time with the Bay Area gang (btw Yule Mrs BJ is generally known as Mme L in these parts:)). We are still incredulous about the culinary effort our kind hosts put together...wow!

Re the wines - I too was really struck by the '96 sec. Sometimes in tastings the earlier wines seem to shine due to palate freshness, but that wine was special - perhaps the best Chenin sec I've had. I also loved the quirkiness of the '93 Constance (I like how you described the bitter/club soda aspect Yule). Also loved the '02, but all the wines were so informative - I learned a lot.

I do want to do a special shout out for Steve Edmunds' wine - so a point and wonderful...30 years old gang! Rhone/Bandol meets 70s old skool Cali - if only all west coast wines were made like this...

Just to let folks know the Bill Frisell/Thomas Morgan/Rudy Royston show we left for was outrageously good - one of the best jazz shows I've been to, and we've been to a lot. They played their entire set without stopping and never skipped a beat. As part of a long encore they played a piece off one of the Bass Desires albums which for me is as good as it gets...the sound at Freight and Salvage was excellent and they didn't over amp - very refined and wonderful. The Friday show with Petra Haden was super as well.

Many thanks again to our Bay Area friends and thank you Mark for organizing!
 
Great day!

Excellent notes, Yule. I'm in total agreement with your assessment of the wines.

The gingerbread was off the charts. It was worthy of being served in a high-end restaurant. There were actually 2 versions. The first had been aged for a shorter period. The second, pictured above, for longer. The concentration of flavors and complexity on the latter was eye opening. Yule and I looked at each other with a "What is this?!" expression after trying the younger one. JD then asked if we were interested in trying one with more age.

JD's salumi was also excellent. He made one from Mangalitsa pork. Percentage wise, I'd say the ratio was about 5:1 fat to pork. It was like lardo with a hint of meat. Melted in your mouth.

It was great to see BJ and Mme L after 8 or so years. BJ, there are a couple of folks I know who stealth record many local concerts. These guys attend several shows a week. If any from the Frisell residency show up, I'll let you know. F&S is a wonderful venue.
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thanks for the report, Yule!

Those '96s seem to be rock-crushers - always good.

My experience is that (premox aside) 1996 was an amazing vintage for an arc of northern European appellations starting mid-Loire though Chablis and Champagne, Alsace and much of the Mosel-Rhein-Pfalz. So many great wines.

The 1996 Huet was indeed brilliant. I lack a broad experience in the plethora of wine available along the multi-kilometer meandering Loire River, but is the 1996 style of the uuu-et atypical for their chenin blanc, let alone anywhere else along the river ?

Our experience is that 1996 Mosel wines, apart from barely balanced Prüm offerings, never lost the malic acid hardness even after 20 years or so and were not enjoyable (except on release when the exuberant fruit offset the acidity). Hence they did not curry favor in this household, even when paired with Japanese curry. We drank them up or sold them or served them to people we knew disliked prädikat German wines (so as to buttress their confirmation bias).

Some highfalutin 1996 pinot noir wines from Burgundy were clearly marred by the high acidity. The 1996 Rousseau Ruchottes (or was it the Clos St. Jacques) imbibed 6 years ago comes to mind. I surmise this region is south of the afore mentioned arc.

We can not speak to Champagne as, for religious reasons, we do not drink them.
My 1996 German Riesling experiences, sadly now all in the rear view mirror, did lean more towards Pfalz & Nahe than Mosel, so you may well have a more accurate picture (if worse luck) than me. I neglected to specify I was talking about white wines in my post. I agree with your assessment of '96 red Burgundy, most of the ones I've had never seemed to lose a hard and shallow tartness that I found unpleasant, so I gave up on them after a while. IIRC, they have their fans, so it may just not be to my taste.
 
originally posted by BJ:
Excellent notes indeed Yule, I didn't see you writing so you have a great memory. I resonate with much of what you said.

I was typing my tasting notes (really just broad outlines; I polished them when I got home) into my phone during lunch. Apple Notes is a great tool, especially for wine tastings.

I remember I was at a wine dinner, and for something like 5 minutes, we were all silently sipping the wines and typing notes into our phones. I bet you people who were watching us were wondering whether we were texting each other rather than talking (and probably wondering whether we were totally out of our minds).
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:

The 1996 Huet was indeed brilliant. I lack a broad experience in the plethora of wine available along the multi-kilometer meandering Loire River, but is the 1996 style of the uuu-et atypical for their chenin blanc, let alone anywhere else along the river ?

Those '96 Huets are special. I remember a couple of months ago, I had the '96 Le Mont Sec and the '96 Clos de Bourg 1er Trie, and they were both as fresh and vibrant as the bottle we had on Saturday.

Perhaps the '96 Huets are immortal. It was certainly eye-opening having the '96 and '02 Huets Le Mont Secs side by side.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Great selection of wines and wonderful reportage, Yule. I am sorry that I couldn’t participate but will console myself with the Patrick Bailey bobblehead that I received on the day he went 4-4, HR, 3 RBI (and have the sunburn to prove it).

Mark Lipton

We missed you Mark! (glad you got there early enough to get the Bobblehead though!)
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
Great day!

JD's salumi was also excellent. He made one from Mangalitsa pork. Percentage wise, I'd say the ratio was about 5:1 fat to pork. It was like lardo with a hint of meat. Melted in your mouth.

JD telling me to let that salumi fat melt on the lips was a very strong move. Delicious.
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:

The 1996 Huet was indeed brilliant. I lack a broad experience in the plethora of wine available along the multi-kilometer meandering Loire River, but is the 1996 style of the uuu-et atypical for their chenin blanc, let alone anywhere else along the river ?

Those '96 Huets are special. I remember a couple of months ago, I had the '96 Le Mont Sec and the '96 Clos de Bourg 1er Trie, and they were both as fresh and vibrant as the bottle we had on Saturday.

Perhaps the '96 Huets are immortal. It was certainly eye-opening having the '96 and '02 Huets Le Mont Secs side by side.

I think using the word "atypical" doesn't really get at what I was driving at.
It seems better to liken 1996 as a "one off" vintage that simply has no similarities to other Huet vintages. Sue generis, if you will. Great, great wine, but as if it came from Mars. (Que LD : "pretty, pretty, pretty. pretty good"). My question is whether other chenin blanc, especially from the Vouvray region, have similarities to the 1996 Huet samplings and markedly differ from other vintages.

for our next research project, I can offer these holdings :
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Clos du Bourg
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont (only 1 bottle and who knows when the Huet Monster will drink this)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie
1996 François Pinon Vouvray Reserve
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
originally posted by Yule Kim:
originally posted by Mark Anisman:

The 1996 Huet was indeed brilliant. I lack a broad experience in the plethora of wine available along the multi-kilometer meandering Loire River, but is the 1996 style of the uuu-et atypical for their chenin blanc, let alone anywhere else along the river ?

Those '96 Huets are special. I remember a couple of months ago, I had the '96 Le Mont Sec and the '96 Clos de Bourg 1er Trie, and they were both as fresh and vibrant as the bottle we had on Saturday.

Perhaps the '96 Huets are immortal. It was certainly eye-opening having the '96 and '02 Huets Le Mont Secs side by side.

I think using the word "atypical" doesn't really get at what I was driving at.
It seems better to liken 1996 as a "one off" vintage that simply has no similarities to other Huet vintages. Sue generis, if you will. Great, great wine, but as if it came from Mars. (Que LD : "pretty, pretty, pretty. pretty good"). My question is whether other chenin blanc, especially from the Vouvray region, have similarities to the 1996 Huet samplings and markedly differ from other vintages.

for our next research project, I can offer these holdings :
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Clos du Bourg
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont (only 1 bottle and who knows when the Huet Monster will drink this)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie
1996 François Pinon Vouvray Reserve

That sounds like fun. Unfortunately, I have no '96 Vouvrays, but I do have a '95 Foreau Moelleux Reserve we can use as a control if you want to do mid-90s Loire Chenin.
 
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