Plus ca change...

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
...plus c'est les memes points.

Part of a blurb sent today for new wine from Domaine Anita:

"Pigott’s scores for the hotly anticipated 2022s have just been published, and what seemed like an impossibility has become a reality: another 100 for Coeur de Vigneronne, a 99 for its equally profound sister bottling, La Rochelle, and huge ratings of 96 or 97 for its other three great cuvées.

With our colleague Neal Rosenthal its exclusive American importer, we can share this embarrassment of riches with you in a convenient 6-bottle assortment, and at a remarkable price. Note that all wines are Moulin-à-Vent, except Ch. Gaillard, which is Morgon."

Nice of them to bother saying where the wines are from.
 
just released in vinous is neal martin's new beaujolais review. scores are much saner there, running 90 to 94 pts.

neal also makes the following comment: " She hit the headlines recently when a publication (no guesses who) awarded one of her wines a perfect score. Well, it’s not that. I’m not about to compare it with a bona fide perfect wine like a 1999 Romanée-Conti."
 
Tried to drink the 2022 Anita Moulin-à-Vent Reine de Nuit tonight. Beautiful black label. Stupidly heavy Napa style bottle. My lovely wife called it a fruit bomb and was not happy. It tasted like a new world syrah. Inky dark color and jammy fruit. We tried bigger glasses and air and it just got worst. We rarely have dinner home, so I opened a 2019 Yohann Lardy VV 1903 which although it had the same reported abv at 14% was exactly what we were looking for tonight. Beautiful wine.
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
We rarely have dinner home...
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Amazing! I'm the opposite.

Lots of implications in terms of food, but I wonder how you think about this in terms of wine. Obviously you drink a lot of great wine. But I often find restaurants a more challenging wine environment, as you may have less control over aeration, temperature, glasses, etc. I suppose you seek out restaurants where you can get this proper attention, but it's still more challenging/constricted than at home.
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
Tried to drink the 2022 Anita Moulin-à-Vent Reine de Nuit tonight. Beautiful black label. Stupidly heavy Napa style bottle. My lovely wife called it a fruit bomb and was not happy. It tasted like a new world syrah. Inky dark color and jammy fruit. We tried bigger glasses and air and it just got worst. We rarely have dinner home, so I opened a 2019 Yohann Lardy VV 1903 which although it had the same reported abv at 14% was exactly what we were looking for tonight. Beautiful wine.
Click to expand...
Thanks for both reports. I have not had any Anita wine but the general tone of the talk led me to suspect exactly what you found.

I have a couple bottles of the '14 Lardy in storage still. Might be time to pull corks.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Robert Dentice:
We rarely have dinner home...
Click to expand...

Amazing! I'm the opposite.

Lots of implications in terms of food, but I wonder how you think about this in terms of wine. Obviously you drink a lot of great wine. But I often find restaurants a more challenging wine environment, as you may have less control over aeration, temperature, glasses, etc. I suppose you seek out restaurants where you can get this proper attention, but it's still more challenging/constricted than at home.
Click to expand...

I have been thinking about the wines I drink at home and the different experience it presents. I usually drink what I will call for lack of a better term simple wines at home. I get immense pleasure from them. I of course drink them out of good glasses (Josephine Hutte) and at the proper temperature with great food and music. There is something about the calmness and clarity I get in my own space that really makes me enjoy these wines and if I am honest probably more than the greater wines I drink out, especially at wine dinners (I am about to go to a dinner with about 40 such wines...).

A certain person I know only drinks high end wines (almost always posts them) and NEVER drinks at home and never what I call simple wines...I find that so sad and says more about him than the wines.

I now love asking winemakers what they drink at home on Monday!
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:

I have been thinking about the wines I drink at home and the different experience it presents. I usually drink what I will call for lack of a better term simple wines at home. I get immense pleasure from them.
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That is interesting. Just goes to show that we all interact with spaces in different ways.

I am the opposite. I am more likely to save my best bottles for home, where I can drink them on their own terms, more relaxed, etc etc.

In restaurants, I'm more likely to drink the simple wines. There is less time for aeration, decanting, and the environment is more hectic. Not to mention the wine list markups. The exception here would be Wine Specific events, but those are a small share of my restaurant meals.

I'm guessing you don't drink 40 great wines every time you dine out! But of course that can be fun.

Completely agree about only drinking high end wines being a limitation, in a bad way. But hey, I guess we all walk our own paths and have our own goals.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:

I am the opposite. I am more likely to save my best bottles for home, where I can drink them on their own terms, more relaxed, etc etc.
Click to expand...

It is more a function of I go to a lot of wine dinners and go out with wine oriented friends. If its just Renee and me we probably drink in the mid-tier when we are out unless we see something very rare / special and/or a great value.

I will say with the price of eating out in NYC skyrocketing we are definitely ordering lower priced bottles in restaurants more often these days.

I have been thinking about doing a wine dinner out where I mandate we bring basic wines, of course ones we are extremely excited about.
 
So many variables here. Is CRB Cot a simple wine? It was (by price). It's not now (by taste). How about Juge from the 90s? It was available for $30ish per bottle.

Drinking at home? Open 3 bottles of red and one Champagne on Monday and see what's left and what still tastes good by Friday. This week - 2021 Margherita Otto Langhe Nebbiolo, 2010 Puffeney Pinot Noir and 2015 Matello Whistling Ridge Pinot plus 1995 Beaumont des Crayeres Nuit D'Or. If the week drives reinforcements, it's either a good week or a bad week.

As I said, too many variables to categorize/bin what I will and won't drink/bring/try in what setting. I guess it is parallel to food (makes sense) - if we can cook it better at home, we will.
 
originally posted by mlawton:
So many variables here. Is CRB Cot a simple wine? It was (by price). It's not now (by taste). How about Juge from the 90s? It was available for $30ish per bottle.

Drinking at home? Open 3 bottles of red and one Champagne on Monday and see what's left and what still tastes good by Friday. This week - 2021 Margherita Otto Langhe Nebbiolo, 2010 Puffeney Pinot Noir and 2015 Matello Whistling Ridge Pinot plus 1995 Beaumont des Crayeres Nuit D'Or. If the week drives reinforcements, it's either a good week or a bad week.

As I said, too many variables to categorize/bin what I will and won't drink/bring/try in what setting. I guess it is parallel to food (makes sense) - if we can cook it better at home, we will.
Click to expand...

how's the margherita Otto? vigneron alan manley is such a splendid person.
 
originally posted by robert ames:

how's the margherita Otto? vigneron alan manley is such a splendid person.
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Quite delicious. There's structure to be sure, but I'm liking tannic reds in the summer actually. Strangely refreshing. I've had several 2021 Langhe Nebbiolos, and I'd put this one in the "less fruit, more earth" category where things like Ca' di Press, Canonica and Trediberri are show more fruit flavors and smells, even if differently.

It's not something I'd hurry to drink young, vs the Trediberri which I think is not going to get better than it is today.

I hope to meet Mr. Manley someday.
 
The regular Domaine Anita 2022 M-à-V is in one of my local supermarkets for 12e. Unless someone chimes in otherwise, it doesn't sounds as though, even with the Rosenthal pedigree, it's worth my while exploring?
 
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