Suddenly Italy

MLipton

Mark Lipton
I just recently learned that I’ll be speaking at a conference in Milan in late June. The meals at the conference are taken, but Jean has never been to Italy before, so we’ll be spending a couple of days in Venice and Florence. No time for wine tourism, but restaurant recommendations for either tourist trap city greatly appreciated.

Mark Lipton
(Not even asking about my earlier trip to Wuhan)
 
We went to Italy two summers ago and ate well.

In Milan, I enjoyed El Brellin - classic Milanese restaurant that is highly esteemed locally. It was recommended to us by three unrelated people and did not disappoint.

We also liked Cantina Piemontese. Very good food and superb wine list.

Florence was generally less successful on the dining front than Milan (honestly we did not try as hard), but Osteria del Porcellino was a nice casual place. We also had a very good and VERY large bistecca at Trattoria dall'Oste Chianineria.
 
My experiences in Venice and Florence are years old now.

Venice was hard to navigate; I recall being unable to even find certain restaurants, never mind get into them. Without looking at my notes, the only meal I recall fondly was dinner at a family-run trattoria named Vini da Gigio. Yes, as their name suggests, they have a good cellar list. I remember an excellent risotto with goose and grated licorice root.

We found Florence even more difficult to deal with. Firstly, everywhere we wanted to go required reservations, which we tourists were not comfortable committing to. But if you show up at 7:00 or so, the restaurant is empty and the owner will turn you away -- it's all reserved and they don't turn tables. Yours for the night.

This was infuriating until we learned about La Passeggiata. This is a tradition of walking around town, with no particular destination in mind, simply to see and be seen and chat with your homies. It runs from 'after work' until 8:00, sharp.

I wonder whether you will still see these behaviors when you go.

One more thing: the food is always better if you eat what is seasonally available. (Which is likely to be all you will find, anyway, but a word to the wise....) In June, you might be done with asparagus and artichoke but you should have zucchini blossom, early melons, and maybe figs and citrus.

And it's Florence so there will be bread.
 
Special for you, Mark: in Florence, stick your head into the shop at Santa Maria Novella and admire the decor (the soap is good, too):
SCN_0160_sm.jpg
 
We loved the Florentine steak and the tripe at Buca Lapi (oldest restaurant in Florence).

For amazing sunset/Arno views accompanied by very good food (not destination great but very good) we enjoyed Sesto in the Westin Florence. You also have the option of just going there for drinks and the view.
 
First of all, thanks to all for the recommendations. I have a lot to look at now. Cole, while I don’t anticipate having much free time in Milan, I’d love to hear your thoughts anyway. It never hurts to have a plan B should things change suddenly.

Mark Lipton
 
Id put in a strong rec for Estro in Venice. A bit off the beaten track in a pretty quiet area, but excellent on both food and wine fronts.
 
I really enjoyed C-ucina in Florence. In a quiet residential neighborhood. Updated highly seasonal traditional food. Mostly locals. Great products. Very nice people.
For a classic and very simple trattoria Da Ruggero is very good.
Mercato Centrale is perfect to shop edible souvenirs. Fantastic pecorino at Baroni Alimentari. And Da Nerbone in the market has the best tripe sandwiches.
 
In Venezia: Covino is excellent. Prix fix with choices, natural list (had a great Pinerolese). Etro is good. Corte Sconta is cool place near Asensle.
In Firenze: La Giostra was killer, but that was 8 yrs ago. Haven’t been back.

The Rialto fish market was pretty cool.
 
originally posted by georg lauer:
I really enjoyed C-ucina in Florence. In a quiet residential neighborhood. Updated highly seasonal traditional food. Mostly locals. Great products. Very nice people.
For a classic and very simple trattoria Da Ruggero is very good.
Mercato Centrale is perfect to shop edible souvenirs. Fantastic pecorino at Baroni Alimentari. And Da Nerbone in the market has the best tripe sandwiches.

Mercato Centrale in Florence is a place to go if you want something to eat and have no reservations.
 
Yesterday we got back from five days in Venice and our best dinners were at Vini da Gigio and Estro Vino e Cucina (there's more than one Estro). Al Bomba was very good too. All are in Raisin.

The curated sections of what may be the last revisionist Biennale (for some time at least) are well worth a visit.
 
Hi Mark,

Two recommendations for Venice:

If you are heading out to the Biennale grounds check out Salvmeria.

A good bet in Cannaregio is Osteria Anice Stellato
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Suddenly ItalyI just recently learned that I’ll be speaking at a conference in Milan in late June. The meals at the conference are taken, but Jean has never been to Italy before, so we’ll be spending a couple of days in Venice and Florence. No time for wine tourism, but restaurant recommendations for either tourist trap city greatly appreciated.

Mark Lipton
(Not even asking about my earlier trip to Wuhan)

Mark,

I find the app from Slow Food very useful, it's called Osterie d'Italia. It doesn't include the upper end, but I don't like the most polished places anyway. Particularly useful in heavily visited cities like Florence and Venice.

The app is in Italian, but they only mention the places they like, and there are symbols for different kinds of specialties, including wine lists.
 
+1 for Vini da Gigio and Anice Stellato (albeit we haven’t visited Venice in over 5 years) and the Slow Food guide.

Ai Artisti in Venice was also excellent.

Don’t miss the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and Santa Maria dei Miracuoli in Venice.
 
We dined tonight at Vino e Cucina and it was a delight. And the wine list! I’ve never seen a deeper selection of orange wines, including many from Radikon and Gravner. Jean was feeling like a bubbly tonight, so we got a non-dosé, Methode Champenoise Garganega from Davide Spillare in Gambellara, which was absolutely delicious.

Mark Lipton
 
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