Ampuis Afternoon (Chambeyron, Levet)

Rahsaan

Rahsaan
A few days in Lyon means an outing to Ampuis.

Of course in the warm-up, plenty of great things to drink in Lyon as well. Highlights for me were the 2018 Labet Les Champs Rouges Chardonnay and 2019 L’Anglore Tavel. I rarely drink Jura wine but the Labet gave me reasons to change that. Slight golden nutty elements, but this is ouillé, so it’s still fresh juicy energetic and vibrant. Great fun. Perhaps that heady fun is aided by the 14.5% alcohol, but it doesn’t taste hot.

I also rarely drink Southern French wine, but L’Anglore is Southern French wine for me. The dark juiciness is so succulent and drinkable. So much fun. I don’t understand US retail prices for this ‘glou-glou’ wine. But I wasn’t buying at US retail

Arriving in Ampuis, we started at Domaine Chambeyron, part of the myriad wineries sprouting from the Chambeyron family. High up on the slope, we get our first drink with the 2022 Cotes du Rhone, which is of course 100% syrah and supposedly could have been classified as Cote Rotie but her father wanted to save in taxes, plus, it was planted to gamay at the time. Not sure of all the historical details, but that’s the story we got! Anyway, it is a very firm thick structured ‘serious’ Cotes du Rhone. For lovers of that style, although it is recognizeable as Syrah and not the Southern CdR warmth.

The 3 Cote Roties showed their distinctive characters. The 2021 Chavarine was light, fine, and the expression of 2021 that one might expect. 2021 Angeline was darker fruits (and more stems) but still with 2021 finesse. Drinkable right now if you want. 2021 Chavaroche was more difficult and backwards, although still with some fleshy fruit. Laetitia suggested just a few more years for everything to harmonize, so we’re not talking drinking windows that are too crazy

We ended with 2022 Condrieu Vernon, which was raised 1/3 in amphora to give it some freshness. Definitely not an unctuous Condrieu, this had more clarity and was something I could drink. But of course given all the other options in the world, probably not first on my list.

Interesting visit, I look forward to following up on the wines I purchased. Some potential here for my tastes, although the wines at our next visit were something special.

We were honored to be received by Agnes Levet in her little tasting room on the main boulevard. I don’t have a long history with her wines, but I have been very impressed thus far, and the 2021s continued that theme.

The 2021 Amethyste (straight Cote Rotie) showed fleshier firmer fruit than the 2021s at Chambeyron. Agnes would explain the ‘success’ of her wines in the ‘difficult’ 2021 vintage as a function of having great terroir that gets ripe and balanced despite the conditions. It did evoke the 2021 vintage and its status relative to the next two wines with more white pepper spice and crisper acid structure. But overall a very nice wine that anyone should be happy to drink!

The 2021 Maestria/Journaries was rounder and fuller but still so focused and an absolute dream to smell and taste. I love the deep purple/black flowers and fruits on these wines. Some tannins emerge at the end. Would love to have lots of this.

The 2021 La Péroline/Chavaroche was another great success for my palate. Again, I love the deep flowers and fruits on these wines, although here the tannins clamp down more harshly on the finish. Such intense flavors and a digestible 12.5%, which Agnes credits to the rocky soil that doesn’t build up too much sugar. But not lacking any flavor or body here, for my tastes. Will wait to drink lots of this.

Great visit and I will keep buying the wines. Although US retail prices make the quantities difficult, at least for my calculations
 
Thanks for the reportage, Rahsaan. I do love the drive to Ampuis and that stretch of the route du vin. Although Levet is a known quantity, Chambeyron is a new name to me. After a meh experience with a Gallet Cote-Rotie, I’m rethinking my relationship with the appellation.

Mark Lipton
 
I assume you know that Agnes Levet's grandfather was Marius Chambeyron, a big name in 20th century Cote Rotie viticulture. The holdings have been fragmented across the family and Domaine Chambeyron and Chambeyron-Manin are both run by cousins of Agnes.

Others will have more detailed knowledge on the family trees and the holdings, but I believe Levet has the best plots of the bunch.
 
By chance, today I purchased 2022 Côte-Rôtie from Burgaud and 2022 Tavel from L'Anglore.

The former is from one of only a handful of Côte-
rôtie estates that I have interest in. Pierre took over from his father Bernard in 2020 -- good wine, still, but a touch more modern, and needs 10 years or so in the cellar.

L'Anglore is enjoyable, but I think 25-30 would be a more reasonable price; as with many cults, I can't understand paying way more for it -- there are plenty more interesting wines out there in the price range.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
By chance, today I purchased...2022 Tavel from L'Anglore...

L'Anglore is enjoyable, but I think 25-30 would be a more reasonable price; as with many cults, I can't understand paying way more for it -- there are plenty more interesting wines out there in the price range.

Agreed.
 
Sounds like a great time. I bought a little 2017 Domaine Chambeyron Côte-Rôtie Lancement, the domaine's oldest-vines cuvée, a while back out of curiosity but have not opened any. Any thoughts or impressions of the oak treatment on the wines? Livingstone-Learmonth notes they use some new oak.

And yes, Levet is totally out of the bag at this point. Great, great wines.
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
Sounds like a great time. I bought a little 2017 Domaine Chambeyron Côte-Rôtie Lancement, the domaine's oldest-vines cuvée, a while back out of curiosity but have not opened any. Any thoughts or impressions of the oak treatment on the wines? Livingstone-Learmonth notes they use some new oak..

They didn't pour us a Lancement, they weren't selling any in the cellar, and their website doesn't list a Lancement anymore (although google does show me the 2017 Lancement you have).

I wonder if they lost the vines. Or perhaps the vines were so old they no longer supported a wine on their own.

Of their 3 cuvees, Chavaroche is obviously Chavaroche. And Chavarine is also Chavaroche (hence the name), but "younger" vines (40 years old) and maybe not the best parcels. That only leaves Angeline, which is the blend of parcels across vineyards.

On the oak, they use 15-20% new oak. Not oak monsters, but a tad glossier than Levet.
 
Thanks for chasing that down. According to JLL, the first vintage of Lancement was 2015, so whatever its glory was didn't last long! Also according to JLL, "Syrah (1967) from mica-schist soils on Lancement, destemmed, 3 week concrete vat vinification at 28°C, pumping overs, cap punchings, aged 30% new, 70% 1-10 year 228-litre oak asks 25 months, unfined, filtered, first wine 2015, 1,200 b"
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
The 2021 Chavarine was light, fine, and the expression of 2021 that one might expect. 2021 Angeline was darker fruits (and more stems) but still with 2021 finesse. Drinkable right now if you want.

Tonight I followed up with bottles of 2021 Chavarine and Angeline at home, in a more relaxed state. They reinforced my impression that these are perfectly nice wines, if you drink them in isolation. The Chavarine (an assemblage of 40 yo vines from Chavaroche) was light elegant and juicy, but nothing too deep or impressive. The Angeline was the nicer wine tonight, with more depth, more substance, more layers, more flavor, more everything. But still, pales in comparison to Levet and I wouldn't chase this down.

It all depends on access and context.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
By chance, today I purchased...2022 Tavel from L'Anglore...

L'Anglore is enjoyable, but I think 25-30 would be a more reasonable price; as with many cults, I can't understand paying way more for it -- there are plenty more interesting wines out there in the price range.

Agreed.

I'm also a fan of the L'Anglore wines, and also chagrined by the U.S. pricing. That dynamic does make them fun to order off Paris lists though.

Claude/Rahssan: Very interested to hear if you have any favorite other wines that scratch a similar itch at a more reasonable price range. (I've found that some of Hardy Wallace's Mourvedres and blends, first at Dirty & Rowdy and now at Extradimensional Wine Co Yeah! do that for me).
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Thanks for the excellent notes, now I have no choice but to take my Chevvy to the Levet.

Ha! I look forward to your impressions...

I took a bottle of 21 Levet Améthyste and a bottle of 21 Levet Maestria, both recently arrived from France, to Copenhagen and opened them at our airbnb. There may have been some travel shock, and the glasses and environment were unfamiliar, so my impressions are probably not indicative of what they would have been at home.

The Améthyste, for which I had lower expectations, was aromatically pretty awake, with no discernible oak (only a hint of vanilla), on the right side of jammy, more on the cherry end of the red fruit spectrum, with coffee/chocolate notes that, while pleasant, I don't associate with Côte-Rôtie. Nice acidity and good balance. Primary, of course, but went well with food.

The Maestria showed a similar profile, with all the same flavor notes, but with a bit more structure and was a little less open. Went less well with food at this more obviously infanticidal stage.

So, the Améthyste won out for current drinking, as I perhaps should have expected. The surprise was the trio of cherry/coffee/chocolate, which seems a bit at odds with what you experienced. Too bad you weren't around to compare notes (literally).
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
...The surprise was the trio of cherry/coffee/chocolate, which seems a bit at odds with what you experienced. Too bad you weren't around to compare notes (literally).

Well we'll be coming through Copenhagen in a few days, but I suspect you're gone...

Otherwise, we might need some better experts to intervene on the origins of these flavors.

In my limited experience, I definitely get dark registers of purple/black-leaning fruit, which might be what you're referring to as coffee/chocolate. And, they do use a small percentage of new oak, which is often where coffee/chocolate come into play for me as descriptors. But, for me, the Levet wines have never come off as 'oaky', and the delicate elegant precision and lift (what I call 'floral' notes) make it a very attractive package.

Of course we all have our own tastes and preferences.
 
originally posted by BJ:
L'Anglore rules.

Usually, yes, but during our recent trip I was so excited to find a 2020 Chemin de la Brune at a wine bar in Copenhagen that I took it without looking at the abv. The thing had 14.5%* and, while no disaster, showed like an unoaked Argentinean Malbec.

* I shud have remembered Mark E's recent warning
 
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