back from the dead

Bob Semon

Bob Semon
Hello everyone. I fervently hope that everyone is doing very well.

After having been mildly berated recently for not showing up in forums for a while, I feel that perhaps I should post some observations that I sent to Luca. I had spent an afternoon with him in the Valtellina early in June. He mentioned that he had fond memories of Nebbiolos from Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia. I was in western Virginia recently and took advantage of the opportunity to drop by the vineyard and taste wine.

So...

Hi Luca. I stopped by Barboursville Vineyards on Monday. I was in western Virginia for the weekend. I was not thrilled with the Nebbiolos that I tasted, 2020, 2011, 1998. They seemed too marked by the barrique. Not in the obvious way with toasty oak flavors, but in the more pernicious way of higher surface to volume ratio for oxygen contact through the barrel. That's a personal observation related to my evolving personal preference for large wood vessels for aging Nebbiolo.

OTOH, I was quite pleasantly surprised by the convincing performance of their Vermintino and Sangiovese bottlings. The Fiano and Barbera were also admirable, if not exciting. I bought the 2011 and 2020 Nebbiolo to see if spending time with a whole bottle will change my impression for the better. The local Virginia Sangiovese will no longer be made, as the vines were replaced with Petit Verdot (a new villian for me, ala Franchetti Rosso, WTF?)

I also bought a bottle of the Fiano to try it alongside recent Ciro Picariello and Colli di Lapio vintages. And I bought a Vermintino, because it ran circles around the Vermintinos I had last month in Sardinia, though, admittedly, the visits were not chosen by me.

Oh, I didn't buy the 1998 Nebbiolo because the price was $450 for a 750ml bottle. The only bottle of wine that I've spent that much money for was a 1.88 liter bottle of 1958 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, my birth year, from the cellar in Barolo in 2004.

Chutzpah!!
 
Nice to see you in print again, Bob.

The only Barboursville nebbiolo I've ever had was the 2002, long ago. Have you been drinking anything other than Italian varieties raised in Virginia?
 
originally posted by Bob Semon:
I stopped by Barboursville Vineyards on Monday. I was in western Virginia for the weekend. I was not thrilled with the Nebbiolos that I tasted, 2020, 2011, 1998...

Good to hear from you.

Interesting mixture of vintages they pour at the winery.
 
I've never found any Virginia red I more than mildly liked, and none worth the pricetag. This includes Barboursville, where I tasted once, many years ago, including their wine from Sangiovese, though not Nebbiolo. Maybe I just don't like the reds from the areas and I shouldn't opine in public about them. On the other hand, your birthyear Barolo last weekend was fabulous.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
... Have you been drinking anything other than Italian varieties raised in Virginia?
Hi Jeff!
Hi Rahsaan!

Yes, I've been drinking other wines. Being my birth month I had a 58 Borgogno Riserva recently. It showed well after shedding the medieval bloody iron sword vibe that old Barolos can express. Very nice mature fruit remained after the tannins had been shed enough to be indiscernible. An 89 Les Cailloux CdP also was pretty good that evening, past its peak but still on the high slopes. Its sibling from 1990, a Cuvee Centenaire, was better a few weeks earlier. Jonathan should weigh in on that. We had a Bored-Oh from the aughts (??) with the Barolo and CdP. It, a Pichon Lalande I think. It was drinking quite well. It is a fine claret with lots of positive evolution ahead of it.

I drank a 1990 Beausejour Duffau and a 1989 L'Angelus with Raffaele Catania, his mother Danila, and sister(???) Enza at Gulfi in May. I was staying at the Locanda. Raffaele had told me when we met last year that he liked L'Angelus. I promised to bring him a bottle. Both wines were excellent. The L'Angelus was one of the best clarets I've tasted. Both paired well with the outrageously good roasted maialino that Raffaele had made. While he slaved all day in the kitchen, Danila, Enza, and I went to this year's Infiorata di Noto to see the flower petal "paintings" celebrating Puccini, and then to Modica to buy Cioccolato. The wines were good but the day trip was even better.

I've been to Italy several times in the last few years. I've met wonderful winemakers and winery associates. Alfio Mozzi and Nicola Nobili in the Valtellina, Luigi Boveri and his wife Germanna and son Francesco in the Colli Tortonesi, the Vittorio Garda/Martina Ghirardo team in Carema, Ciro Biondi and his wife Stefanie on Mount Etna. I got to visit the Vajra family in Barolo again, and so many others. Visiting Albugnano was a geeky adventure for a Nebbiolo lover. Who knew a 100% Nebbiolo DOC was tucked into the hills SW of Torino just over the border into Asti province?

Well, enough of my ramblings. I'll try to pop in more often and praise or trash talk stuff I'm drinking.
 
OMG, Bob, how do you even get there? I'm planning a trip to Naples-Sorrento-Sicily for later this year and transportation on the island is so awkward.
 
Well, I did weigh in on the Barolo, which was beyond fascinating all night long. The 89 Les Cailloux opened as if it were looking over the edge of its maturity and ready to jump off. Then, after a decant, it too got more interesting as the night wore on. It will never thrill the people who drink CdP for vibrant fruit (well, I do that too, but I'm speaking of those who claim they have only about 10 years in them), but it was just fine to me. The claret was Pichon Lalande 09, which would have been very good, though a little young and fruity, on its own but was overshadowed by all those autumn leave wines on the table. I haven't tasted a 90 Centenaire in 20 years. The one I had then was way too young. We'll talk later about what you were doing drinking that wine without me.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
OMG, Bob, how do you even get there? I'm planning a trip to Naples-Sorrento-Sicily for later this year and transportation on the island is so awkward.

Easyjet has connections from Palermo and Catania with Zurich, Geneva, and Basel, so I usually connect through Switzerland with an overnight or more stay somewhere. I'm retired, so I don't have to be efficient with my time. I don't know of any nonstop from Naples. You may have to connect through Rome or Milan. Or Zurich, Frankfurt, or Gatwick. There may be a leisurely ferry connection. I'll take a peek at Expedia and see what they come up with.
 
On the island itself, I rent a car at the airport and promptly head out of town. I had personal transport and taxi transport in Palermo. I would never drive in the city. It's a madhouse.
 
On and off the island is not too bad. We're planning an overnight ferry from Naples to Palermo, and, some days later, the scenic train from Catania, across the straits near Messina, and up the western side of the boot back to Naples.

It's that 'some days later' part that's some kind of a nuisance without a car. Bus and train service seems irregular and unfocused.
 
Back
Top