TN: 2023 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling

Salil Benegal

Salil Benegal
This has been one of my favorite dry Rieslings for a while, except for ages it was a pain to find/source in the US. Then, once I found places like Wine Library or Saratoga Wine Exchange regularly bringing them in over the last few years, the wines on release were a bit odd and inconsistent. A couple here and there showed slightly sweet compared to the older PHs with a lot more apparent ripeness and fruit, and once or twice a bit unbalanced because of that sweetness. Perhaps that's climate change, perhaps it's the house style changing slightly, or perhaps a bit of both.

But this one's absolutely in the zone, and one of the best Rieslings I've had in a while. Like other recent vintages, it doesn't feel fully dry and it's more in halbtrocken/barely feinherb territory. But it also has bracing acids and a firm mineral base beneath the bright fruit and gentle herbal/floral accents, and it's incredibly compelling with tremendous balance and a freshness and energy to the fruit that makes each sip invite the next. The slight sweetness rounds out the palate nicely, and the whole package is incredibly easy to drink. As good a dry(ish) Riesling as I've had in a while.
 
Agreed. My rare encounters with the Grosset Polish Hill have all been eye-opening. My problem is finding them. Good to hear that Saratoga has them as I’ve dealt with them before and had great experiences.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Salil Benegal:

But this one's absolutely in the zone, and one of the best Rieslings I've had in a while... As good a dry(ish) Riesling as I've had in a while.

Thanks for this. Inspirational and reminds me that the world of wine does in fact go south of the equator. I dabbled in these Grosset wines 20 years ago, but never kept up.
 
I'm down to my last three of a case of 2002s; under Stelvin, they age forever, and the last bottle felt like it was finally approaching full maturity on the third day after I'd opened it. Also have some 2018s stashed, if memory serves, to carry me through when I'm in assisted living.
 
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