Wine impressions 11-9-24

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
Wine impressions 11-9-24

2017 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho - open, beautifully shaped wine with that slightly feral character that Mourvèdre can carry. Ready but no rush.

2018 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho - pretty closed, even with decanting. Time to sit on these awhile.

2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho - open but very young. These Mourvèdres are really quite special but I’ve yet to have one that showed any age. Even so, I’ll buy Hardy’s Evangelho every year - happily.

2022 Dominique Gruhier, Epineuil Cuvée Juliette - this is about as delicious as Bourgogne gets under $40. Fresh, lively, complex, structured, precise and balanced. Absolutely lovely now with a great future.

2020 CVNE, Rioja Crianza - slightly rustic but excellent fruit and structure with good balance. At $12, back up the truck.

2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Armstrong Vineyard - even more open and generous than the Ribbon Ridge ‘19 but deeper, more complexity and showing very well indeed. Just superb.

2018 Caparsa, Chianti Classico - a charming expression of the area with mouth-watering goodness. Lovely.

2023 Sainte Celine (Brocard), Chablis - fruit driven yet still true to its place. Less fruit forward and, to my taste, even better on day two. $17 at Trader Joe’s.

2000 Carruades de Lafite - this bottle was beguiling; Bordeaux without question; resolved and almost tender - I couldn’t help pouring more. Exquisite.

2019 Cantin, Irancy - another exceptional Bourgogne at around $30. Firm yet open and a fine grained delivery. Yum.

2019 Cantin, Irancy La Grande Côte - even more complex and fine than the preceding wine but showing younger. Needs time and will be worth it.

2022 Terres Dorees, Morgon - a lovely drop. Of its place, bright fruit and nice balance. Good Beaujolais is such a joy.

2018 Gulfi, Nerobufaleffj - about as impressive as Nero gets. Density without weight, precise yet complex, a worsted texture and character to burn. Really good.

2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Forets - this has shown open since release and true to its place and the house style. Not the concentration of the Grand Crus but so well executed that it often impresses more. Lovely wine.

2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Vaudesir - open enough to get a sense of the feminine delivery so typical of this vineyard. Lots of concentrated fruit, oyster shell and mineral but it all needs time to coalesce. Huge future.

2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Les Clos - barely showing enough to understand that, in a decade or so, this will blow you away. The density here is evident and the volume in the mouth, at this stage, is almost too much. Hold.

2021 Calluna, Estate Blanc - a Sauvignon/Semillon blend that references Bordeaux Blanc but does not copy it; more intense and concentrated but not weighty or ponderous. I suspect this will develop nicely over time, although I like it enough now to make aging in my cellar unlikely.

2021 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres - firm, structured and, IMO, atypical of Morgon - but not atypical of this producer in this vineyard. Needs time - hold.

N/V Tarlant, Champagne Brut Zero - firm and crisp with excellent minerality but not much fruit showing right now. I have no idea if the fruit will develop over time but right now, while very good, it’s stern.

2017 Louis Michel, Chablis Grenouilles - proof positive the god lives in Chablis. Endless depth and nuance. A masterpiece!

2021 Chavy-Chouet, Bourgogne Rouge La Taupe - lively, focused fruit (maybe a bit lean), evident backbone and nice balance. I like this wine but don’t love it - ‘would be interesting to have the ‘22. ‘Lots of respect for the producer and vineyard but this vintage may not be its best - or maybe I’m just early.

2020 Pieropan, Soave Calvarino - I do love this wine; IMO as good as Soave produces. Rich but focused and a peacock’s tail or aromas and flavors with superb length.

2022 Vincent, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge - such a joyful wine and yet still well structured and shaped. No need to open it but every reason to. Excellent.

2021 Rock & Vine, Cabernet Sauvignon Three Ranches - I am not a cab guy and certainly not Central Coast cab guy but credit where due - no gobs, no big alcohol, no oak overlay, just well made, fruit driven cab with some structure. Not complex or intellectual but nice drinking.

1992 Fieldstone, Vintage Port - simple, uncomplicated, fairly sweet port from Alexander Valley. One glass was ample.

2022 Frederic Esmonin, Bourgogne Les Genevrieres - excellent; fruit filled, good structure, even a little development, I think and a complete wine. A delight to drink.

N/V Guy Larmandier, Champagne Cramant - my kind of bubbles; a lovely fruit, brioche and mineral melange with just the right bead and sneaky depth and sustain. Grand Cru, indeed.

2018 Remoissenet, Meursault - nothing heavy handed here just a minerally, ripe fruit delivery with the very clear aroma of Meursault. Nicely layered, good textures, fine acids and charm.

2022 Thymiopoulos, Xinomavro Young Vines - slightly pale, lightly tannic, lightweight red wine with excellent fruit, good complexity and fine length. 13% abv, $16 and quite good - showing well now. My thanks to Dan Kravitz for the suggestion - this will be a yearly case purchase. I am also told that the up market Xinos from this house are pretty good.

Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim: Wine impressions 11-9-24Carruades de Lafite

Jim, I'll never forget many years ago landing a bottle of this wine, I believe it was the '76, from Eric's near Banner Elk. Took it to the Tack Room restaurant which is one of my all-time favorite restaurants from the past. The Tack Room at that time was on the Linville to Boone highway, if I recall correctly.

As discussed before, you and I are totally in sync with respect to the Louis Michel bottlings.

. . . . . Pete
 
Coincidental that you post this on the day that we get a shipment of Extradimensional Evangelho Mourvedre. We love Hardy’s touch with that grape.

Mark Lipton
 
nice to hear the carruades showed well. Not a fan of the vintage in bordeaux - it's not a high alcohol/tannin monstrosity like some of the more recent vintages, but oddly broad-shouldered and opaque. that said, a recent bottle of ducru has me rethinking. perhaps great wines were made that require patience, just not in a style i have experience with and can evaluate in adolescence.

gulfi makes the best nero i've ever tasted

fist pump for frederic esmonin. the 20s at the low end got away from him (perhaps that's the case for most red burgundy?), but normally the bourgogne and especially the village gevrey lieux dits are ridiculous value in a refreshingly no-bullshit style. i'll look for the '22
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Wine impressions 11-9-24
2020 CVNE, Rioja Crianza - slightly rustic but excellent fruit and structure with good balance. At $12, back up the truck.

2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Forets - this has shown open since release and true to its place and the house style. Not the concentration of the Grand Crus but so well executed that it often impresses more. Lovely wine.
Year in, year out CVNE produces terrific value up and down the line. One of my go-to wineries.

Michel Chablis Forets - that's how I feel about premier vs. grand cru Chablis in general. Grand crus are sometimes more impressive wine, while being less impressive Chablis. Most of my lifetime highlight Chablis experiences have been premier cru.
 
originally posted by Christian Miller (CMM):


Michel Chablis Forets - that's how I feel about premier vs. grand cru Chablis in general. Grand crus are sometimes more impressive wine, while being less impressive Chablis.

That's a fairly traditional view of the difference between Chablis 1er Cru and Chablis Grand Cru.
 
Always a joy to read your notes Jim. We seem to share the same preferences as to wine style, though you report on tons of stuff I can't taste in Norway.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Wine impressions 11-9-24
Wine impressions 11-9-24

2021 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres - firm, structured and, IMO, atypical of Morgon...

Best, Jim

This seems to be of a piece with many other recent comments on 20's Beaujolais. It makes me yearn for the voice of Joe, in somewhat the same way that today's politics leave me sad that I cannot hear from Hunter S. Thompson.
 
originally posted by Ken Schramm:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Wine impressions 11-9-24
Wine impressions 11-9-24

2021 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres - firm, structured and, IMO, atypical of Morgon...

Best, Jim

This seems to be of a piece with many other recent comments on 20's Beaujolais. It makes me yearn for the voice of Joe, in somewhat the same way that today's politics leave me sad that I cannot hear from Hunter S. Thompson.
Ken,
I did not intend my critique to reference the vintage (as the succeeding phrase notes) but rather the producer working in that vineyard in almost any year. I’ve not had a lot of 2020 Beaujolais but much has been typical or close to it.
You?
 
Jim, my understanding is that the Javernieres is their long-haul pony. I'd think you'd have a much better experience right now with their Corcelette.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Jim, my understanding is that the Javernieres is their long-haul pony. I'd think you'd have a much better experience right now with their Corcelette.

Mark Lipton
No doubt.
Desvignes’ Javernieres somewhat reminds me of Roilette; often quite firm in their youth. Sometimes they stay that way long past my patience threshold. That’s not to say they’re poorly made - only that they may not be well suited for me. And of course, some turn out very well, indeed.
But I don’t think I’ll gamble anymore.
Rahsaan posted notes about some Bruns that prompted me to buy some - much more to my liking and approachable. A few other producers known to this bored come to mind that will work for me.
Perhaps, I’ll drink older Javernieres from those who have cellared them sufficiently.
That would work, too.
 
As I've said a million times, I've never had a ready Desvignes. For me, why bother?

Jim I'm just so chuffed to see the cheapo TJ/Brocard make your list. Haven't had the '23 yet and it makes me want to drive there now and get one or a case.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Ken Schramm:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Wine impressions 11-9-24
Wine impressions 11-9-24

2021 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres - firm, structured and, IMO, atypical of Morgon...

Best, Jim

This seems to be of a piece with many other recent comments on 20's Beaujolais. It makes me yearn for the voice of Joe, in somewhat the same way that today's politics leave me sad that I cannot hear from Hunter S. Thompson.
Ken,
I did not intend my critique to reference the vintage (as the succeeding phrase notes) but rather the producer working in that vineyard in almost any year. I’ve not had a lot of 2020 Beaujolais but much has been typical or close to it.
You?

Was referencing the other thread discussing '21/22/23. A few comments about ripeness and things veering from expectations.

I have not kept specific notes, but have also noted a progression over the last decade or so from light and bright to darker, more chunky with lower acidity. A change in what I thought was typical for Beaujolias.

originally posted by Rahsaan:

Delicious but strange. I had both 2023 Fleurie and 2023 Fleurie Tardive this weekend, and comfortably settled back in Nyc, and struggled to make sense of them. Both delicious, but so rich and intense. Not what I think of for Fleurie/MaV/Beaujolais more broadly.

...I can go elsewhere for ripe rich and heavy. Maybe I'm being too narrow-minded, but that is the question for this new paradigm of Climate Change Wine.
 
I share your love of Louis Michel (if not the volume of holdings) so it is always instructive to read your notes. Thanks
 
originally posted by maureen:
I share your love of Louis Michel (if not the volume of holdings) so it is always instructive to read your notes. Thanks
Of late, I notice prices accelerating so I am seeking out older vintages that have not risen as much. And the extra time in bottle doesn’t hurt. But I suspect my buying days for this producer are winding down, especially if tariffs also drive prices up further.
Ah well, always lots of good wine to choose from.
 
I chanced upon some 2011 Desvignes Javernières Impénitents recently. (Stored in bond, from the original merchant/importer here in the UK, release price plus storage costs.) 3 out of 4 bottles opened so far have been fantastic, their youthfulness suggesting how firm they might once have been, but now a joy to drink.
 
originally posted by Ben Hunting:
I chanced upon some 2011 Desvignes Javernières Impénitents recently. (Stored in bond, from the original merchant/importer here in the UK, release price plus storage costs.) 3 out of 4 bottles opened so far have been fantastic, their youthfulness suggesting how firm they might once have been, but now a joy to drink.
Great data point; maybe I’ll soften my position a bit.
 
originally posted by Ben Hunting:
I chanced upon some 2011 Desvignes Javernières Impénitents recently. (Stored in bond, from the original merchant/importer here in the UK, release price plus storage costs.) 3 out of 4 bottles opened so far have been fantastic, their youthfulness suggesting how firm they might once have been, but now a joy to drink.

checked up on the 2010 recently, was told to come back in a few years
 
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