An André Tchelistcheff Homage : Wines with a B or V

M

Mark Anisman

Mark Anisman
In Honor of André Tchelistcheff : Wines with a B or V
An afternoon gathering - Saturday the 15th of February, 2025

Attendees : G, Y, P, S, Y (the latter Y apparently a distant relation with Noël Verset), MD, DD(no S), C, K, & RY (this herb not utilized in the meal) and last but most certainly not least, DK. Unclear how well disorderlies know these folks, so initials employed in case disorderlies are not on a first name standing.

Wines rated in their weight class

2019 Eric BORDELET Poiré Granit : Finely detailed pear with a touch of bitterness. Lively and refreshing. An argument to forego the ever present default to champagne. 3

2021 Vittorio E. Figli BERA Moscato Canelli : To quote an attendee's apt evaluation - “Juicy, fresh, and a just a touch effervescent. Loads of floral notes on the nose and bright, white-fruited flavors on the palate. A lovely Moscato” 3

2007 Edmond VATAN Sancerre Clos la Néore : A extrovert without the tension of the 2008 version and more obviously Sauvignon Blanc with grassiness. The Vatan calling card of mint. Medium plus ripeness, voluptuous without being unctuous. 2 (many a guest graded it out as a 3. they are, of course, wrong and most likely not to be offered a return invitation)

2008 Edmond VATAN Sancerre Clos la Néore : Precise flavors and texturally sharper than the 2007. Mint. Much more difficult to place as a Sauvignon Blanc as it is a subtle wine that does not broadcast the usual suspects. The 2007 can be heard from across the room, where the 2008 must be next to you. Freshness is an identifying mark here. Sui generis. 3

2001 Noël VERSET Cornas : Perhaps lacking the complexities and depth of a great Verset offering but nonetheless typical animale black fruited Syrah from this master of same. Very good balance with the delicate wire walk of living peacefully in both the worlds of finesse and rusticity. One attendee noted, perhaps applicable both literally and figuratively, “a marriage made in heaven” with the (fill in the course). 2

2006 Noël VERSET Cornas - Fine balance but clearly lighter, less feral and not with the dynamic fruit one associates with a Verset wine. Nevertheless, holds up to the (fill in the course). 2

1990 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin VOUVRAY Moelleux Réserve - Motor oil color (guests advised not to judge a book by its cloth bound cover). Powerful and very sweet wine that is just so supported by the acidity to avoid being cloying. Caramelized honey and apricots. Close to magical. 3

NV Cappellano BAROLO Chinato : This medicinally infused and fortified* concoction is an acquired taste, thus this bottling obtained from Jamie (a specimen birthed 30 years or so ago) was acquired and tasted. NR (no extensive experience in the Chinato category)
* Y, the latter, was indeed correct!

Menu (Match course with Wine) : With gratitude to the inimitable BL Kessler

Bread (59% Central Milling Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Plus / 41% Capay Mills Red Bug Nouveau Flours)
Vegetable Terrine
Citrus Peel Salt Cured Sockeye Salmon with Chives / Shallots/ Crème Fraîche
Walnut / Pomegranate Dip with Pita Bread
Duck Confit (4 month aged) & Cotechino Platter
Cheese - Franklin’s Teleme (cow) / Rivers Edge Siltcoos (goat)
Celery Root Soup with Baharat sprinklings
Cassoulet
Salads x 2
Ukrainian Honey Cake (https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019089-russian-honey-cake?q=russian) as exquisitely interpreted by DK
Maldon Sea Salt Caramels (with Star Thistle Honey in lieu of molasses / Karo Syrup)
 
Wow, that's a heck of a lineup, Mark. And two bottles of Verset Cornas! You dog! That '06 is, I believe, the final vintage prior to his retirement (he had already sold off some of his vineyard holdings).

Mark Lipton
 
Thank you Mark for inviting me over for cassoulet. It was a real treat!

I generally agree with your assessment of the wines.

The Bera and Bordelet were delicious and punched way above their weight. It was the first time I had the Bordelet Granit, and the mineral complexity on the palate was surprising. I need to hunt some down.

I found the '07 Vatan to be a little more generous on opening than the '08, with the minty, herbal note quite prominent immediately. It's textural breadth was a real contrast with the '08, which was initially very linear and sharp, but tightly coiled. However, with time in the glass it opened up and I got more of that Vatan mint on the palate, but with that firm acidic spine giving the wine a great tension. I was initially team '07, but I ended up favoring the '08.

I also agree that the '06 Verset was lighter, more delicate, and more red-toned in its fruit than the '01. The '01 was meatier, slightly smokier, and more intense, but with a finessed weight on the palate. Both had a slightly spiky acidity; I think characterizing the wines as a wire walk between rusticity and finesse hits the mark. I also feel they probably could use a little more time to have the acidity integrate. Great wines; I'm kind of curious if wines like these will be possible in the future in our era of climate change.

The 1990 Foreau was a perfect pairing with the Ukrainian honey cake. The honey and apricot notes just worked really well with the cake, while the zesty acidity cut through the richness. The long finish of baking spices tied the pairing together.

The Cappellano Chinato was fantastic on the nose, though I think I was a little too tuckered out at that point to be able to fully appreciate it on the palate.

Thanks again Mark. I need to ask you for the walnut-pomegranate dip recipe. I looked it up on Paula Wolfert's website, but the closest thing they have is the Mouhamara (red pepper, walnut, pomegranate dip), which I'm assuming is not the same as the dip on Saturday.
 
Mark -
young Jayson and I completely misunderstood your instructions and opened the wrong wine this weekend. Please be more precise next time.

Screenshot_2025-02-20_120253.png
 
thank you all for the commentary!
Pavel - you did fine. it is clearly (tongue in cheek) instructions compliant..... we could have tried the 1985 version but left in the cellar as not considered a best match for cassoulet. and the Vinum series is compliant too.
Mark - not that it matters, but i was told 2006 was Mssr. Verset's last commercial vintage and perhaps a few later vintage bottlings are floating in the ether.
Yule - excellent notes! you should visit Robert Panzer's website for Bordelet. He brings in a full spectrum of Bordelet, including hard to find Poiré de Glace
& Sydre Cormé. I usually buy a case focusing on the hard to find offerings and supplement with a purchase from Chambers. Christian might go in with me. The offer usually comes in August. https://downtoearthwines.net/. and check out https://www.klwines.com/Products?searchText=bordelet
Jeff - please tell us when you do a Bay Area drive by....the NYC events are so enticing... always tempt me to hop an Amtrak to Penn Station
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
He brings in a full spectrum of Bordelet, including hard to find Poiré de Glace
& Sydre Cormé.
Click to expand...

I've never heard of either of those nor been offered them from my local importer. I'm a fan of Bordelet even if some folks find them too middle of the road.
 
"too middle of the road"
i can see that, but that is why i enjoy them. to our taste, they are very pure expressions of the apples and pears. we don't "appreciate" ciders from the likes of Cyril Zangs (too funk city), but understand why some folks bid higher for them.
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
For me, Jerome Forget's ciders are some of the best I've ever had.
Click to expand...
if Bordelet is clean & Zangs is dirty, where does Forget fit in?
an important question as many a Forget cider lingers on CSW.....
 
originally posted by Mark Anisman:
1990 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin VOUVRAY Moelleux Réserve - Motor oil color (guests advised not to judge a book by its cloth bound cover).
Click to expand...

What a great line-up of food and wine, as they are and together. I think that a narrower range of wines can result in a better overall taste experience vs. the sprawling embarrassment of riches wine geek fueled jeebuses can become. Easier to focus on the wines, in more context. Maybe that's just me.

So often, so true in the case of old Foreaus. They look DOA when poured, then you taste it and say 'oh, it's still good", then 5-15 minutes later you are amazed.
 
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