Wine impressions 5-16-25

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
Wine impressions 5-16-25

2016 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - opaque, rich, complex and definitely Bennett Valley. The darkest and most concentrated wine I made and showing well after 9 years. Excellent with a turkey and tomato ragout over pasta.

N/V Dhondt-Grellet, Champagne 'Dans un Premier Temps' Extra Brut - while an assemblage, it looks and tastes more of Chardonnay, lovely aromatics, small but persistent bead and more flesh than most bubbles I taste. But perfect balance and delicious. Fine.

2022 Clos du Gravilla, Emmenez-moi du Bout du Terret - 100% Terret Gris from Minervois; flinty, sassafras, clean, earthy and energetic. From attack to finish it feels like you’re stretching a rubber band - fuller and looser at the beginning, more linear and precise at the end. A unique profile in my experience, and one I very much enjoy. Fine.

2017 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho Vineyard - lightweight, pretty and true to the house style; not much development but the integration is complete and the balance is excellent. Not my favorite D&R Evangelho but still delicious. My last bottle.

N/V Vilmart, Champagne Grand Cellier - a textbook example of Champagne; lovely yet restrained aromatics, persistent bead and layered flavors with good cut. Hard not to love. Fine.

2019 Pepiere, Clisson - for those who consider Muscadet a lightweight, acidic or even shrill white, this is the antidote. Although, I’m not sure this is the highest and best use of Melon.
It’s concentrated and rich, flinty but ripe and has more in common with the Rhône texturally than it does with the Loire. An interesting rendition of Muscadet but neither typical nor especially compelling. At least, not yet.

2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy - bursting with red fruit, energy and nuance, firm structure, balanced and quite long. Showing extremely well and a joy to drink. Wonderful! Very fine.

2022 Louis Michel, Chablis Montee de Tonnerre - beginning to find itself; full-on Chablis aromatics - delineated and nuanced; the palate follows with citrus, marine layer, lots of cut and salt. Four months ago this was loose, and, while showing promise, without direction. It knows the way now but has miles to go. It will be my great pleasure to follow its journey over the coming years - “great expectations.” Very fine.

Best, Jim
 
Jim, always appreciate your notes and especially your attention to Chablis. Thanks. Cantin stuff sounds juicy, I'm fond of Irancy but don't often find an opportunity to taste. A favorite of mine is J-H & G. Goisot, do you know them in Saint-Bris; they do lovely stuff in Côte d'Auxerre, Saint-Bris and Irancy with several cepages.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:

2019 Pepiere, Clisson ... An interesting rendition of Muscadet but neither typical nor especially compelling. At least, not yet.

Do I remember correctly that you have been a fan of Pepiere Clisson in previous vintages? So the not-compelling verdict is mainly about the 2019, right now?
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Florida Jim:

2019 Pepiere, Clisson ... An interesting rendition of Muscadet but neither typical nor especially compelling. At least, not yet.

Do I remember correctly that you have been a fan of Pepiere Clisson in previous vintages? So the not-compelling verdict is mainly about the 2019, right now?
Yep
 
originally posted by Karen Goetz:
Jim, always appreciate your notes and especially your attention to Chablis. Thanks. Cantin stuff sounds juicy, I'm fond of Irancy but don't often find an opportunity to taste. A favorite of mine is J-H & G. Goisot, do you know them in Saint-Bris; they do lovely stuff in Côte d'Auxerre, Saint-Bris and Irancy with several cepages.
I had not heard of them . . . but I have now.
 
Glad you're still enjoying the Gravillas; I drank the last of mine some time ago. I am not sure if Chambers Street ever brought in the 2023, but if they do I would surely buy some.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
goisot isn't anybody's secret. neal martin gives them great coverage in tony galloni's rag.
Oh, I’m sure it’s not. But I don’t read the critics or come in contact with much of their work so it’s nice to hear there’s a good thing for me to try. Report to follow . . .
 
in the business, but away from any city of note, i read what i find that's useful in vinous, WA, the wine doctor, lars carlberg, john livingston, burghound, and others, and think of them more as reporters than as critics.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
in the business, but away from any city of note, i read what i find that's useful in vinous, WA, the wine doctor, lars carlberg, john livingston, burghound, and others, and think of them more as reporters than as critics.
Reporters - I like that
 
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