Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 5-25-25
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Skin-fermented Chenin Brosseau Vnyd. - upon opening this tastes generic - by that I mean, like most orange wines (phenolic, one note, boring) - but over several nights it gains its own persona and nuance.
2021 Calluna, Estate Blanc - Sauvignon/Semillon blend from Chalk Hill in Sonoma; excellent blending balance (one variety does not overwhelm the other), crisp but with presence, lovely fruit, good energy, nice finish. And giving every indication it will age well.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Isa - skin-fermented Sauvignon that has gone through a number of incarnations; this one is the suave middle-aged gent in a tux who delivers his own kind of sophistication; you may have seen him before but he’s more compelling this time. The black sheep I can’t help loving.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - also skin-fermented but completely unlike most orange wines; no phenolic aromas or flavors but rather tangerine zest, brown spice and unsweet cream soda with good balance, cut and length. My wife’s favorite.
2023 Sainte Celine, Chablis - at about $17, as good a value in Chablis as I’ve found (and I have searched). Made by Brocard (although that name is not on the label), this is clearly Chablis without wood or artifice. Charming.
2020 Extradimensional Wine Co. Mourvèdre Evangelho Vnyd. - superb, albeit young. Wonderful energy, deep mulberry fruit, beautifully shaped and some complexity. Young but smashing. Fine.
2023 Vincent, Pinot Gris Tardive - lots of angles and depth; showing young but with perfect balance and the savory notes of this grape that make me smile. Hold.
N/V Bollinger, Champagne Brut Special Cuvée - textbook Champagne and a wonderful drink but without its own character. Enjoyable, oh yes; memorable, nope.
2022 Gilbert Picq, Chablis - also textbook Chablis but a bit more savory than the Sainte Celine noted above. Nice.
2022 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre - 100% Chardonnay and reminiscent of Chablis but with a looser texture and more emphasis on the grape character. This shows young but still layered and of a piece. Several years in the cellar should serve this well. Fine. Thanks Karen.
2022 J. P. Brun, Morgon - black cherry, iron, wet stones and 12.5 abv - what’s not to like? Well, it’s certainly not integrated; the nose lacks fruit, the palate is fruit filled but tannic and while the wine has depth and character, at this stage of its life, it’s misshapen. And short. Maybe the cellar will cure its ills; maybe not.
Best, Jim
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Skin-fermented Chenin Brosseau Vnyd. - upon opening this tastes generic - by that I mean, like most orange wines (phenolic, one note, boring) - but over several nights it gains its own persona and nuance.
2021 Calluna, Estate Blanc - Sauvignon/Semillon blend from Chalk Hill in Sonoma; excellent blending balance (one variety does not overwhelm the other), crisp but with presence, lovely fruit, good energy, nice finish. And giving every indication it will age well.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Isa - skin-fermented Sauvignon that has gone through a number of incarnations; this one is the suave middle-aged gent in a tux who delivers his own kind of sophistication; you may have seen him before but he’s more compelling this time. The black sheep I can’t help loving.
2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla - also skin-fermented but completely unlike most orange wines; no phenolic aromas or flavors but rather tangerine zest, brown spice and unsweet cream soda with good balance, cut and length. My wife’s favorite.
2023 Sainte Celine, Chablis - at about $17, as good a value in Chablis as I’ve found (and I have searched). Made by Brocard (although that name is not on the label), this is clearly Chablis without wood or artifice. Charming.
2020 Extradimensional Wine Co. Mourvèdre Evangelho Vnyd. - superb, albeit young. Wonderful energy, deep mulberry fruit, beautifully shaped and some complexity. Young but smashing. Fine.
2023 Vincent, Pinot Gris Tardive - lots of angles and depth; showing young but with perfect balance and the savory notes of this grape that make me smile. Hold.
N/V Bollinger, Champagne Brut Special Cuvée - textbook Champagne and a wonderful drink but without its own character. Enjoyable, oh yes; memorable, nope.
2022 Gilbert Picq, Chablis - also textbook Chablis but a bit more savory than the Sainte Celine noted above. Nice.
2022 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre - 100% Chardonnay and reminiscent of Chablis but with a looser texture and more emphasis on the grape character. This shows young but still layered and of a piece. Several years in the cellar should serve this well. Fine. Thanks Karen.
2022 J. P. Brun, Morgon - black cherry, iron, wet stones and 12.5 abv - what’s not to like? Well, it’s certainly not integrated; the nose lacks fruit, the palate is fruit filled but tannic and while the wine has depth and character, at this stage of its life, it’s misshapen. And short. Maybe the cellar will cure its ills; maybe not.
Best, Jim