Advice on Vin Jaune styles

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I've got a little shindig coming up this week featuring Vin Jaune. I've had a few of the wines, but not next to each other. Is there any serving order or decanting advice for the following?

1992 Berthet-Bondet Chateau Chalon
1999 D'Arlay Vin Jaune
1999 Lornet Vin Jaune
1999 Macle Chateau Chalon
1999 Cabelier Chateau Chalon
1999 Puffeney Vin Jaune

Best,
Joe
 
Of the two from this list that I have had, I would say that the Puffeney is noticeably drier than the Macle. The Puffeney is also more in the yellow fruit spectrum, while the Macle features more woodsy, underbrush notes.

Peter Liem did a recent piece on his blog detailing his experiences with a few of the producers listed here. You might want to check it out. Jefford's "The New France" would be another resource.

And finally: any chance I could be at said shindig? I would be happy to contribute '96 Puffeney Vin Jaune.
 
Thanks, I'll check it out. That's actually a pretty good lead.

E-mail on the way, too.
 
The more important thing is to find a great source of comt. I'm not sure what is available in the Boston area, but I would do some extensive nibbling and find something that will go well with you wines. There is no greater wine/food pairing in the world.

I would suggest doing the Vin Jaune as a flight and then the Chteau Chlon. This might be cliched but it would be interesting if there is truly a marked terroir difference.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Joe, at what age do you prefer your comt?
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I'm happy with 6 or 12 months. The Art of Eating had a wonderful article a few years ago about comt. The locals argue that the younger comt is more nuanced and after reading the article and tasting cheeses bought directly from the Jura (I was in France at the time) I came to the conclusion they were right. Before that, like every pretentious asshole, I imagined that the two or three years old were better.

One of the great shrines to Comt is in Poligny, a wine shop/cheese store named Essencia. Worth the trip to France just to go there.
 
originally posted by Joe Dressner:
I'm happy with 6 or 12 months...Before that, like every pretentious asshole, I imagined that the two or three years old were better..
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They are pretty much different cheeses.
 
At last visit (about two weeks ago), Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge had a good range of Comt, if you're interested in just such a tasting. And since they're also one of the few stores that has vin jaune out on the shelves (and actually sells some, even at their elevated markup), they probably have some developed opinions on the pairing.

Of course, even exploratory visits to FK have their downsides, as our bank balance would demonstrate.
 
Thank you.

I was served some very nice 3-year-old Comt at a restaurant in Paris, but I knew that some preferred to eat it young, too. I'll have to find some good young cheese to try. I hear tell that there is a stand in the food mall on Essex St. (LES) that might be worth a try.
 
There are two cheese specific purveyors in the Essex St. Mall. One is Saxelby's, which offers 95% American farmstead cheeses, and the other is Formaggio Essex, which an off-shoot branch of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Mass. They pack a lot of options into Formaggio Essex, but it is still quite bit smaller and less various than the Formaggio in the South End, and thus much smaller than the Cambridge original.

One of the cool points about Formaggio Essex is that you can find things there that never come up at Murray's, which seems to pretty much have it's cannon of goods.
 
originally posted by Joe_Perry:
Advice on Vin Jaune stylesI've got a little shindig coming up this week featuring Vin Jaune. I've had a few of the wines, but not next to each other. Is there any serving order or decanting advice for the following?

1992 Berthet-Bondet Chateau Chalon
1999 D'Arlay Vin Jaune
1999 Lornet Vin Jaune
1999 Macle Chateau Chalon
1999 Cabelier Chateau Chalon
1999 Puffeney Vin Jaune

Best,
Joe
Click to expand...

I think my bottle last.
 
originally posted by Joe Dressner:
I would suggest doing the Vin Jaune as a flight and then the Chteau Chlon. This might be cliched but it would be interesting if there is truly a marked terroir difference.
Click to expand...

We can do that. Although, I imagine it will come down to producer styles first and terroir second. We'll see...
 
The Art of Eating article about comt really was great. It's worth ordering the back issue to read if you missed it.

Strangely enough, there's now a Whole Foods a few miles from us that has a big turn-over on some cheeses, including decent comt. I've been trying comt with a variety of white wines, but may need to break down and buy some Vin Jaune.
 
Other than the "places to eat/shop in NYC" issues, I can't think of many AoEs that aren't worth back-ordering.
 
nice write up by Peter Liem. aside from his chicken dish (and comte and walnuts), anyone tried the fenugreek-laced curry/vin jaune pairing?

re-decanting, this may or may not be of help, from Wink Lorch..."Vin Jaune is normally served in the region at 'room temperature' meaning around 18C (about 65F??) and never served from the 'fridge. Young vintages (and that would mean anything younger than 10 years old (remember it is not allowed to be sold until 7 years old!) are nearly always either opened 24 hours in advance or decanted (if you order at a restaurant for example) or sometimes both. It can be kept once open for weeks or even months, changing and generally evolving with time."
 
originally posted by Thor:
Other than the "places to eat/shop in NYC" issues, I can't think of many AoEs that aren't worth back-ordering.
Click to expand...

Yeah, is that the article that had text about the best places for bagels in NYC? Not the most useful article.
 
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