It was Maureen’s moment to visit Nyc, which meant assembling an all-star cast for some merriment, including Jayson C, Jay M, and Jeff G. And then coordinating with her friend Mark T to get us excellent treatment at Cookshop. And, all the better that it coincided with VLM's moment to visit Nyc.
Nathan refused to play along with Maureen’s Riesling and Red Burgundy theme, so we started with 2014 Huet Le Mont Sec, which needed some air to snap into focus and shed the loose brown woolly character. Never really sang, but did combine well with some of the early dishes (like the crab beignets).
2013 Kras Emil Tavcar Vitovska was another off-theme contribution that was completely unknown to me, but was very delicious and almost inspired me to visit my friend in Slovenia. Good firm structure and grip, but also lively and elegant. I have zero frame of reference here, but believe everyone enjoyed it.
I brought the 2021 Wittmann Brunnenhäuschen Riesling GG because I was curious and have had good luck with some 21 GGs. This needed some air to get going and then had a strong presence with those big broad rocky shoulders in the structure. But, it’s not a heavy wine and the salty minerals almost-gracefully dance across the palate. I like this interpretation of riesling from time to time. But this was not its night and I think reactions around the table were mixed. As this night, it was really about the pradikats.
Starting with 2007 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese, which blossomed into a lovely resolved strand of silky elegance. A glorious stage for my palate.
1990 Müller-Catoir Mussbaucher Eselshaut Riesling Auslese was a different animal. Such lovely golden orange color, and still plenty to give. Took a decanting and continued to grow and expand in the mouth over time with layers for days. We all enjoyed.
Nathan’s rebellious streak extended to off-theme red wine, but unfortunately I think most of us missed the short window when the 1999 Roagna Barbaresco Pajé was showing well. A shame. But there were other wines to sooth our spirits.
2007 Chandon de Briailles Volnay Les Caillerets was gorgeous and sent us all scrambling to remember the exact years they made this wine. A shame they no longer have access because it’s gorgeous, aged into harmony but still with plenty of Caillerets detail. And a lovely counterpoint to their Savigny, Pernand and Corton wines.
I brought the 2005 Louis Boillot Gevrey Chambertin Cherbaudes because Nathan and I have an ongoing discussion about Boillot. Not sure if this tipped the scale positively or negatively. It was showing pretty well: dark and rich in the very old vine Cherbaudes style, but also pretty and fine in the Boillot style. On its own, might have made more of an impression, but there was a chunky rusticity to the tannins that detracted, and was only amplified by the other gorgeous Burgundies circulating.
2002 Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne Romanée was full of beautiful ‘pure’ fruit that retained such juicy succulence despite the age. Again, on its own, it might have made more of an impression. But the level of elegance was higher on the next three.
Which was the height of our coordination, as we wrangled a trio of 08s: 2008 Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Perrieres, 2008 de Montille Vosne Romanée Les Malconsorts Christiane and 2008 Jean Grivot Vosne Romanée Les Beaux Monts. I think most people agreed that all were showing well and at least one of them was WOTN, although we all picked different ones, reflecting our palates. I preferred the Grivot because it showed the most layers and the most suave grip, which I really dug. The de Montille was interesting, not sure if it was the power of suggestion because I don’t know much about Malconsorts, but it really did feel like a Vosne wine filtered through a Cote de Beaune lens, with the brighter fruit. And the Chevillon was a nice counterpoint, slightly more foursquare in the Nuits way, but still plenty elegant. No need to choose, just keep drinking all three!
I never got the full story on why 2011 Authentique Keeler Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir appeared, other than the fact that it was an apparently horrible vintage. But, they still managed plenty of rich fruit that felt a bit clumsy in comparison to the other wines. That said, I’m sure it is plenty good and would do very well under different circumstances.
Thankfully Maureen’s better instincts prevailed and she opened a bottle of 1998 Müller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Auslese, which was absolutely gorgeous. A perfect finale, and sparked yet another round of tributes to HGS. (We had done our share earlier with the 1990 Auslese as well!)
And if that wasn’t enough, we were sent on our way with Indian mangoes. ‘Tis the season.
Nathan refused to play along with Maureen’s Riesling and Red Burgundy theme, so we started with 2014 Huet Le Mont Sec, which needed some air to snap into focus and shed the loose brown woolly character. Never really sang, but did combine well with some of the early dishes (like the crab beignets).
2013 Kras Emil Tavcar Vitovska was another off-theme contribution that was completely unknown to me, but was very delicious and almost inspired me to visit my friend in Slovenia. Good firm structure and grip, but also lively and elegant. I have zero frame of reference here, but believe everyone enjoyed it.
I brought the 2021 Wittmann Brunnenhäuschen Riesling GG because I was curious and have had good luck with some 21 GGs. This needed some air to get going and then had a strong presence with those big broad rocky shoulders in the structure. But, it’s not a heavy wine and the salty minerals almost-gracefully dance across the palate. I like this interpretation of riesling from time to time. But this was not its night and I think reactions around the table were mixed. As this night, it was really about the pradikats.
Starting with 2007 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese, which blossomed into a lovely resolved strand of silky elegance. A glorious stage for my palate.
1990 Müller-Catoir Mussbaucher Eselshaut Riesling Auslese was a different animal. Such lovely golden orange color, and still plenty to give. Took a decanting and continued to grow and expand in the mouth over time with layers for days. We all enjoyed.
Nathan’s rebellious streak extended to off-theme red wine, but unfortunately I think most of us missed the short window when the 1999 Roagna Barbaresco Pajé was showing well. A shame. But there were other wines to sooth our spirits.
2007 Chandon de Briailles Volnay Les Caillerets was gorgeous and sent us all scrambling to remember the exact years they made this wine. A shame they no longer have access because it’s gorgeous, aged into harmony but still with plenty of Caillerets detail. And a lovely counterpoint to their Savigny, Pernand and Corton wines.
I brought the 2005 Louis Boillot Gevrey Chambertin Cherbaudes because Nathan and I have an ongoing discussion about Boillot. Not sure if this tipped the scale positively or negatively. It was showing pretty well: dark and rich in the very old vine Cherbaudes style, but also pretty and fine in the Boillot style. On its own, might have made more of an impression, but there was a chunky rusticity to the tannins that detracted, and was only amplified by the other gorgeous Burgundies circulating.
2002 Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne Romanée was full of beautiful ‘pure’ fruit that retained such juicy succulence despite the age. Again, on its own, it might have made more of an impression. But the level of elegance was higher on the next three.
Which was the height of our coordination, as we wrangled a trio of 08s: 2008 Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Perrieres, 2008 de Montille Vosne Romanée Les Malconsorts Christiane and 2008 Jean Grivot Vosne Romanée Les Beaux Monts. I think most people agreed that all were showing well and at least one of them was WOTN, although we all picked different ones, reflecting our palates. I preferred the Grivot because it showed the most layers and the most suave grip, which I really dug. The de Montille was interesting, not sure if it was the power of suggestion because I don’t know much about Malconsorts, but it really did feel like a Vosne wine filtered through a Cote de Beaune lens, with the brighter fruit. And the Chevillon was a nice counterpoint, slightly more foursquare in the Nuits way, but still plenty elegant. No need to choose, just keep drinking all three!
I never got the full story on why 2011 Authentique Keeler Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir appeared, other than the fact that it was an apparently horrible vintage. But, they still managed plenty of rich fruit that felt a bit clumsy in comparison to the other wines. That said, I’m sure it is plenty good and would do very well under different circumstances.
Thankfully Maureen’s better instincts prevailed and she opened a bottle of 1998 Müller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Auslese, which was absolutely gorgeous. A perfect finale, and sparked yet another round of tributes to HGS. (We had done our share earlier with the 1990 Auslese as well!)
And if that wasn’t enough, we were sent on our way with Indian mangoes. ‘Tis the season.