Florida Jim
Florida Jim
Wine impressions 7-25-25
2022 Sandlands, Cinsault - as good a rendition of a 100% Cinsault as I’ve had. Medium, translucent red, lovely red fruit and beach sand aromatics with nuance, light to medium weight in the mouth, lively red fruit flavors and nice sustain. Gains strength and complexity with air but keeps its light, energetic feel. Fine.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Forets - every bottle of this since release has been excellent; several superb. IMO, this cru and the Mortmains are what good Chablis should taste like - I don’t discount the Grand Cru’s but they are often more about power and individual character than this. For me, this is quintessential Chablis. Very fine.
2022 Domaine Belliviere, Rouge-Gorge - 100% Pineau d’Aunis from the producer that does the variety better than anyone. Great aromatics and flavors, excellent structure and balance but, more than anything, a sense of unparalleled integration and completeness. A master class in the grape; it tastes good now but has years to peak. Very fine.
2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy La Grande Côte - another beautiful wine that shows well now but has years in the cellar. Real depth and power but so perfectly balanced that it does not overwhelm, even now, in its adolescence. Reminds me of young Corton made well. Fine.
2022 Gilbert Picq, Chablis - a lovely village wine with good character and very well made. And an easy accompaniment to lighter fare. Delicious and ready now.
N/V Guy Larmandier, Champagne Cramant - a singular aromatic and taste profile emphasizing fruit but not without complexity. Nice.
1995 Chateau Margaux - at thirty, this is the first time this has shown ready; not mature, but at least generous on both the nose and palate. All about breeding and complexity with a feeling of wholeness. And also the feeling that it will last a very long time. Very fine.
2013 Valentini, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - finally, at 12, opening into its quirky but arresting style. Several previous bottles have been unimpressive; this one brings all the layers, nuance and funk to the mix while still being of a piece. Lots of energy, good fruit but this wine lives on complexity. Fine.
2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Temperance Hill - an icon for the ‘19 vintage in the Eola-Amity Hills. Spherical in the mouth; more a dance across the palate than a swallow; followed by a peacock’s tail of a finish. Hard to do better than this and, in 2019, that is saying something. Fine.
2023 Kontozisis, Maiagousis - a Greek white that brings the idea of sea air and sunshine together in liquid form. More depth and length than first expected and beautifully shaped. I’m going to drink a lot of this. And I hear from a good source that it ages well. Fine.
2022 Dominique Gruhier, Epineuil Cuvée Juliette - cool climate Pinot at its best; Burgundy without question, mannered and holding something in reserve but also gracious and concentrated now. Lots of years to peak but another wine that I doubt will ever close down. Fine.
2022 Clos du Gravilla, Emmenez-moi du Bout du Terret - 100% Terret Gris from Minervois; flinty, a bit of melon, earthy; it starts out fuller and looser at the beginning, then more linear and precise at the end. A progression that interests and pleases. Fine.
Best, Jim
2022 Sandlands, Cinsault - as good a rendition of a 100% Cinsault as I’ve had. Medium, translucent red, lovely red fruit and beach sand aromatics with nuance, light to medium weight in the mouth, lively red fruit flavors and nice sustain. Gains strength and complexity with air but keeps its light, energetic feel. Fine.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Forets - every bottle of this since release has been excellent; several superb. IMO, this cru and the Mortmains are what good Chablis should taste like - I don’t discount the Grand Cru’s but they are often more about power and individual character than this. For me, this is quintessential Chablis. Very fine.
2022 Domaine Belliviere, Rouge-Gorge - 100% Pineau d’Aunis from the producer that does the variety better than anyone. Great aromatics and flavors, excellent structure and balance but, more than anything, a sense of unparalleled integration and completeness. A master class in the grape; it tastes good now but has years to peak. Very fine.
2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy La Grande Côte - another beautiful wine that shows well now but has years in the cellar. Real depth and power but so perfectly balanced that it does not overwhelm, even now, in its adolescence. Reminds me of young Corton made well. Fine.
2022 Gilbert Picq, Chablis - a lovely village wine with good character and very well made. And an easy accompaniment to lighter fare. Delicious and ready now.
N/V Guy Larmandier, Champagne Cramant - a singular aromatic and taste profile emphasizing fruit but not without complexity. Nice.
1995 Chateau Margaux - at thirty, this is the first time this has shown ready; not mature, but at least generous on both the nose and palate. All about breeding and complexity with a feeling of wholeness. And also the feeling that it will last a very long time. Very fine.
2013 Valentini, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo - finally, at 12, opening into its quirky but arresting style. Several previous bottles have been unimpressive; this one brings all the layers, nuance and funk to the mix while still being of a piece. Lots of energy, good fruit but this wine lives on complexity. Fine.
2019 Vincent, Pinot Noir Temperance Hill - an icon for the ‘19 vintage in the Eola-Amity Hills. Spherical in the mouth; more a dance across the palate than a swallow; followed by a peacock’s tail of a finish. Hard to do better than this and, in 2019, that is saying something. Fine.
2023 Kontozisis, Maiagousis - a Greek white that brings the idea of sea air and sunshine together in liquid form. More depth and length than first expected and beautifully shaped. I’m going to drink a lot of this. And I hear from a good source that it ages well. Fine.
2022 Dominique Gruhier, Epineuil Cuvée Juliette - cool climate Pinot at its best; Burgundy without question, mannered and holding something in reserve but also gracious and concentrated now. Lots of years to peak but another wine that I doubt will ever close down. Fine.
2022 Clos du Gravilla, Emmenez-moi du Bout du Terret - 100% Terret Gris from Minervois; flinty, a bit of melon, earthy; it starts out fuller and looser at the beginning, then more linear and precise at the end. A progression that interests and pleases. Fine.
Best, Jim