Chard, Pinot, and Gamay TNs (Summer 2025)

Yule Kim

Yule Kim
Chardonnay - Burgundy

2023 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Bougros: The nose is quite expressive with notes of ripe apple and seawater on the nose. However, the palate is note quite as good, with ripe yellow fruit and a jagged acidity. Although there is a nice saline finish, this is a bit too ripe and simple for me.

2021 La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles Ch“teau Grenouilles: There's a little bit of cheesy funk on the nose which is quite pleasing. The palate is quite crisp and linear with a sparkling acidity and nice chalky minerality. Quite tart, racy, and refreshing with intense green fruit and citrus.

2021 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre: A young Raveneau, so there is some noticeable oak, but it does not mask the salinity or oyster shell. Textured with some creaminess and a thin veneer of glossy oak, it still feels and tastes like a Chablis with flavors of citrusy lemon zest, salt, chalky minerality and a mouthwatering acidity. While the nose is a little unexpressive at this point, the wine itself is taut, balanced, and light on its feet despite the density of the palate.

2013 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux: Very fresh on the palate with just a hint of oxidative bruised apple. Otherwise, quite mineral with accents of lemon and oyster shell. There's a patina of new oak, but still relatively well-integrated. Good density, yet elegant and light on the palate, which is caressed by the wine's silky texture. Acidity is en pointe, making this wine quite crushable and more-ish.

2017 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières: Nice nose of green apple and pears without any vanilla or toasted bread aromas. The palate is very nice: quite crystalline and airy on the palate with mouth-watering acidity framed with just a touch of vanilla from the new oak. Very fresh, nice minerality, and not overtly fruit forward. Definitely a fresher, more delicate style of white Burgundy that doesn't rely on density or new oak to provide pleasure.

2023 Ch“teau de la Charrière Santenay 1er Cru Beauregard Blanc: There's juicy white fruit that seems a bit ripe, decent minerality, and adequate acidity, but the oaky spice is noticeable on the finish. Quite clean and not overly glossy, despite the oak, though I personally wish it was a little fresher and purer.

Chardonnay - Jura

2019 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Varrons Vieilles Vignes: An aromatically lifted nose while the palate is quite crisp and silky with mouth-watering acidity that is already well-integrated, but lively enough to compel you to drink more. I'm getting flavors of tart lemon, white fruit, and a hint of lavender and cilantro. The finish is long, but subtle with just a touch of natty volatility and funk. Very light on its feet and well balanced. Not getting much vanilla or creaminess here: this is quite pure and the oak-influence is barely a whisper. While it does not have the concentration and energy of the '19 Chalasses, it also seems more approachable now with its seamless, elegant texture. This is cloudy, acid-driven lemonade for grown-ups.

2022 Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Arbois Les Bruyères: A bit hefty and a touch polished, but balanced with nice acidity, a hint of oxidative funkiness, and just a kiss of oak to add a layer of complexity to the fresh-tasting citrus and white on the palate.

Chardonnay - Oregon/California

2023 Walter Scott Chardonnay La Combe Verte: Crisp and lean with fresh, juicy acidity, green apple, citrus, and minerals on the palate, and a tangy finish with a touch of salinity and oaky spice on the finish. Not overly complex, but refreshing with an understated oak that doesn't cover up the underlining wine. Quite enjoyable.

2012 Nickel & Nickel Chardonnay Stiling Vineyard: A bit confounding: a honeyed and sweet nose that I would normally associate with a dessert wine. However, very dry and low acid on the palate. A big doughnut hole in the midpalate until the vanilla and oaky tannins emerge on the finish. The new oak becomes more pronounced with time in the glass and tastes more like a buttery California Chardonnay with time. Not exciting at all.

Pinot Noir - Burgundy

1989 Maurice Écard Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Jarrons: Very nice nose of mushroom, leather, forest floor, and classic Burgundy funk. Quite savory, fresh, and earthy on the palate with some subtle notes of dark red fruit. Tannins are pretty much resolved and silky. Quite elegant and while it has developed tertiary characteristics, it does not feel like it is going to decline anytime soon. Classic, old-school Burgundy.

2008 Jérôme Chezeaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes: This seems to be rounding into a good place. Definitely racy and acidic, but there was enough red fruit and spice to provide balance. This did not come across as austere at all. An enjoyable wine that clearly reflects its terroirs without any of the leanness that is normally associated with the 2008 vintage.

2023 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Serpentières: Beautifully expressive nose of florals and cherry. The flavors are earthy, savory, a touch saline, and very elegant. Dark red fruit has a cool profile and is not overripe. Quite light on the palate and has nice translucent character. The oak is very subtle, adding just a little spice and texture on the finish. Really good and I would not think this was from a hot vintage.

2022 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Boutière: Definitely a little ripe: silky, borderline velvety texture, and while the acidity is there, the mouthfeel is a bit rich. A bit (red) fruit forward, but you get some earthy complexity and there is this warmth to the palate. Tannins are accessible and polished at the point, but have a little bit of grip to keep things interesting. New oak is not noticeable, though you get some spice on the finish.

Pinot Noir - Oregon

2022 Hundred Suns Pinot Noir Eola - Amity Hills: Nice fruit on the nose that is a touched lifted with a little bit of earthy funk. A bit sharp on the palate with just a touch of volatility to add to the liveliness of the wine. Much more about minerality than fruit, getting flavors of damp earth and mushroom, with an herbal finish. I enjoyed this, but this may be too austere for some.

2022 Martin Woods Pinot Noir Bednarik Vineyard: A very nice expressive nose that is more about earthiness and herbs than fruit. Very elegant and balanced with flavors that are mainly mineral and earth with just an undertone of cool red fruit. Tannins have a slight grippiness to them while the finish is a bit medicinal and drying. Really quite good: not too austere with just enough fruit to provide some pleasure without tipping over to over-ripeness.

Pinot Noir - Natural

2021 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise: I thought this was quite good. There's definitely a hint of stem on the nose, while the palate has a melange of fresh dark fruit, herbal green, and earthy minerality. Very fresh and energetic, it just keeps getting better and more precise with air. Lovely and I can definitely see this aging into something very interesting.

2022 Henri Chauvet Côtes d'Auvergne Vie Ordinaire: A lovely aromatic nose of wild strawberries and florals. The palate is quite lifted and energetic with a bit of natty crunch to the acidity and a tasty red fruit profile. Very well-done natural wine that was glou-glou in spades.

2022 Yannick Meckert Vin de France GRRRR: This has the most normal looking robe between a darker red and purple. On the palate, silky and tart with grippy and palate-coating tannins. The fruit is a darker red and slightly crunchy, like sour cranberry juice. Easy drinking, with a very lifted finish where the VA is quite prominent. Some complexity with herbs and baking spices. Elegant, and could use some age to tame the tannins. There's also, unfortunately, a subtle mousy note.

2023 Yannick Meckert Pinot Noir Baisers Retrouvés: A purple robe, but also a bit cloudy. Hint of raspberries on the nose. Silky, but definitely carbonic, texture. Quite round (and not overly crunchy or volatile), with chalky tannins that provide grip, but are not overly drying except for the tip of the tongue. The palate, despite the wine being pinot noir, reminds me of slightly bitter blood orange The finish has a tart, lemon citrus quality to it that is married with subtle saltiness, minerals, and a hint of smoke.

Gamay

2024 Guy Breton Régnié: Fresh, fruity nose of wild strawberries. The palate is quite delicate with low extraction, but a fresh and tart acidity. There's light red fruit some some blood orange citrus and wet rocks on the finish and a hint of warming spices. Quite juicy and sappy; exactly what you want in Beaujolais.

2023 Vinarija Dalia Splet: Nose is quite expressive with damp earth and forest floor and hints of spices. There is a little bit of oak on the palate, and the vanilla is a touch aggressive for me, but probably not overdone for others. Quite light and elegant with bright, juicy red fruit and good acidity. If the oak integrates with time, this could be very nice. 80% Gamay and 20% Vranac.

2023 Florez Wines Gamay Fat Cat Loves Nene: Smells old world with a hint of sunny fruit buried underneath earth and funk. Bright acidity married with ripe fruit with a hint of spice on the finish. Seems to have a bit of alcohol to it. Pretty fruit forward, but not overdone.

2023 Arnot-Roberts Gamay Noir El Dorado: Wow, very velvety and rich texture that sits a little too heavily on the palate. Could use more acidity and freshness. Pretty straightforward wine: it kind of has this candied cough syrup thing going. Not my favorite.

2020 Domaine Sérol Côte Roannaise Perdrizière: Expressive nose, but a little too polished and velvety on the palate. A little too slick and heavy, though the acidity does provide some freshness. There is a hint of herbs to add some complexity to the red fruit.

2020 Domaine Prieuré Roch Vin de France Gamay: A very Burgundian take on Gamay. The nose is earthy with grace notes of dark cherry fruit and florals. The palate is silky and fresh with brambly dark fruit and herbal green notes. The wine evolves into a nice, tart acidic bite seasoned with a hint of cracked white pepper (and probably framed with a touch of new oak) on the finish. You can definitely taste the stems and whole cluster without the carbonic texture and crunch you would get from a lot of cru Beaujolais. Very drinkable and light on its feet, overcoming the heavy, roasted character I get from a lot of 2020 wines in the region (the grapes are grown in a vineyard just outside of the Vosne village boundaries).

NV Domaine Migot Brut Rosé Mèthode Traditionnelle: Acidity is a little harsh, but it's refreshing and has some very pretty light red fruit.

2020 Ch“teau Thivin Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie: Very big, lush, velvety, and plummy. Just a little too dark and heavy handed for my palate. Not for me.

2023 Lé Thio Noots (Romain Verger) Vin de France Un Apres-Midi d'Ete: The nose is a bit unexpressive, with a whiff of VA and Brett intermingled with aromas of blackberry and flowers. However, the palate is quite a bit more interesting, with dark red fruit layered with notes of wet rocks, earthy sous bois, and a hint of meatiness. Acidity is already well integrated and the texture has that carbonically-induced silkiness. Very light and delicate, and it finishes a bit short with a hint of bitter greenness. However, I do find this wine quite interesting and layered, despite being a touch dilute and slim.
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:


1989 Maurice Écard Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Jarrons: Very nice nose of mushroom, leather, forest floor, and classic Burgundy funk. Quite savory, fresh, and earthy on the palate with some subtle notes of dark red fruit. Tannins are pretty much resolved and silky. Quite elegant and while it has developed tertiary characteristics, it does not feel like it is going to decline anytime soon. Classic, old-school Burgundy.

2023 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Serpentières: Beautifully expressive nose of florals and cherry. The flavors are earthy, savory, a touch saline, and very elegant. Dark red fruit has a cool profile and is not overripe. Quite light on the palate and has nice translucent character. The oak is very subtle, adding just a little spice and texture on the finish. Really good and I would not think this was from a hot vintage.

Some nice wines there. I had a few of the Ecard wines once the name changed to the son, didn't love them, but must be nice to relive the old-school Maurice.

Have also very much enjoyed Guillemot, but don't follow them every vintage. Nice to hear the 2023 showed so well.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
It is a feat to produce a racy Grenouilles.

I have had a number of their lesser wines. The Petit Chablis tastes acidified. So, do they so that with GCs too?
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Florida Jim:
It is a feat to produce a racy Grenouilles.

I have had a number of their lesser wines. The Petit Chablis tastes acidified. So, do they so that with GCs too?

I suspect it is a '21 vintage thing.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Yule Kim:


1989 Maurice Écard Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Jarrons: Very nice nose of mushroom, leather, forest floor, and classic Burgundy funk. Quite savory, fresh, and earthy on the palate with some subtle notes of dark red fruit. Tannins are pretty much resolved and silky. Quite elegant and while it has developed tertiary characteristics, it does not feel like it is going to decline anytime soon. Classic, old-school Burgundy.

2023 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Serpentières: Beautifully expressive nose of florals and cherry. The flavors are earthy, savory, a touch saline, and very elegant. Dark red fruit has a cool profile and is not overripe. Quite light on the palate and has nice translucent character. The oak is very subtle, adding just a little spice and texture on the finish. Really good and I would not think this was from a hot vintage.

Some nice wines there. I had a few of the Ecard wines once the name changed to the son, didn't love them, but must be nice to relive the old-school Maurice.

Have also very much enjoyed Guillemot, but don't follow them every vintage. Nice to hear the 2023 showed so well.

The '89 Ecard was like being transported to a different world. When Burgundy still smelled like barnyard and cow dung.

And the Guillemot was really enjoyable. I'm glad he is still under the radar (for now at least)
 
originally posted by Robert Dentice:

Great notes on many wines I love. Twardowski is definitely not in the natural camp.

Ah, good to know. The person who brought it often brings a lot of cult-y natural wines, so I made an assumption based on that.
 
I used to buy Maurice Ecard's Savignys most every year. I really hated to see him pass the torch. Yule, your note described well what they consistently offered.

Great notes, thanks.

. . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:

The '89 Ecard was like being transported to a different world. When Burgundy still smelled like barnyard and cow dung.

And the Guillemot was really enjoyable. I'm glad he is still under the radar (for now at least)
Good Burgundy, even back then, was not barnyard and cow dung. Ecard had a lot of fans, but I always struggled with the wines and never cellared a single bottle. The issue for me wasn't really the cleanliness of the wines, but rather that they were plump and California in style.

Guillemot has long been doing outstanding work. The estate is one of my favorites in Savigny, a village that is still wrongly IMO dismissed by many people who don't bother to taste the wines. Moreover, much of the appellation is very cool and thus being boosted by global warming.
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

I used to buy Maurice Ecard's Savignys most every year. I really hated to see him pass the torch. Yule, your note described well what they consistently offered.

Great notes, thanks.

. . . . Pete

Thank you Pete!
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Ecard had a lot of fans, but I always struggled with the wines and never cellared a single bottle. The issue for me wasn't really the cleanliness of the wines, but rather that they were plump and California in style.

Aha, that was my impression of the wines I had from Michel, so maybe it's not just his "new" style. Although I understand there was also some shuffling of the vineyards so a direct throughline may not exist.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Yule Kim:

The '89 Ecard was like being transported to a different world. When Burgundy still smelled like barnyard and cow dung.

And the Guillemot was really enjoyable. I'm glad he is still under the radar (for now at least)
Good Burgundy, even back then, was not barnyard and cow dung. Ecard had a lot of fans, but I always struggled with the wines and never cellared a single bottle. The issue for me wasn't really the cleanliness of the wines, but rather that they were plump and California in style.

Guillemot has long been doing outstanding work. The estate is one of my favorites in Savigny, a village that is still wrongly IMO dismissed by many people who don't bother to taste the wines. Moreover, much of the appellation is very cool and thus being boosted by global warming.

Yeah, it was really illuminating trying the '23 Guillemot. Very restrained in style and very good. I'm glad I got some stashed away.

The Savigny thing is interesting. I would agree it is definitely unfairly dismissed, but there are a lot of "hot" producers like Guilbert Gillet who make mainly Savigny wines that cost a lot of money now (though I know Leroy has an expensive Savigny too, though I suppose that is because of the reputation the house made outside of Savigny).

I'm guessing that's an outgrowth to the "producer, producer, producer" mantra that dominates discussion about Burgundy now. People are looking past terroir and are probably over-correcting by just chasing star producers regardless of where the wine comes from. When a Bizot Marsannay can go for the same price as Rousseau Clos St. Jacques, something has definitely turned.

I was also just kidding about the "barnyard and cow dung" comment (though thank you for your clarifying points about that and Ecard's wine). But, the '89 Ecard was definitely very savory in profile and just a complete contrast to the young Burgundies I've had recently. Obviously, tertiary development had a lot to do with that, but, even taking that into account, it was just so different from what I encounter in Burgundy now.
 
i don't have a clear recollection of 89s from ecard, even though i know i drank some in the 1990s.
i do remember the 88s, 91s, and 90s very well (case purchases) and i consider them palate formative, not only for the appellation but to an extent for all of burgundy as they were so strikingly free of bullshit.
88 narbantons remains an all-time benchmark
 
Same, three bottles of '05 SLB "Les Jarrons". I have one bottle in the try-relatively-soon queue. One site said he retired in 2005, another in 2006.
 
So for the Écard fans, how do you compare them to the Savignys of Bize, Camus-Bruchon, Guillemot, Pavelot, Chandon-de-Briailles, Rollin?
 
Claude, speaking only for myself, Ecard was one of my entrees into the wines of the Côte d’Or. it was only years later that I found Pavelot and CdB and even later still that I learned of Rollin. It would be most informative to go back now and try them side-by-side, but that would have to rely on the largesse of others as my supply of Ecard’s wines is long gone.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm: So for the Écard fans, how do you compare them to the Savignys of Bize, Camus-Bruchon, Guillemot, Pavelot, Chandon-de-Briailles, Rollin?

Good question. Maybe unfortunately, for whatever reason, I never found those other Savignys readily available at prices as attractive as the Ecards.

Ignorance was bliss!

. . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by Peter Creasey:

originally posted by Claude Kolm: So for the Écard fans, how do you compare them to the Savignys of Bize, Camus-Bruchon, Guillemot, Pavelot, Chandon-de-Briailles, Rollin?

Good question. Maybe unfortunately, for whatever reason, I never found those other Savignys readily available at prices as attractive as the Ecards.

Ignorance was bliss!

. . . . . Pete
This is often the problem with wines made in small quantities -- it's often very difficult to find them and therefore to get a perspective on the potential for wines from a particular appellation.

Nevertheless, I'm surprised that Écard seems to have been so widely distributed in the US compared to the others.
 
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