Claude Kolm
Claude Kolm
As far back as 1977, Kermit Lynch was writing that Burgundy should be served at cellar temperature. (See his "Inspiring Thirst", pp. 20-21.) The balance of acidity and tannin demands a cooler temperature to put all in focus. Nevertheless, restaurants and even people who cellar Burgundy ignore this and serve the wines too warm. I would say 75-80% of the time in restaurants in Paris with excellent wine lists, I still have to ask for an ice bucket to cool the wine (fortunately, never refused). My wife is even more passionate about this than I am.
These days, I find myself serving all manner or reds and whites cooler than I used to. I think this is a function of the ways wines are changing with increasing delicacy, or perhaps I should say precision, of the aromatics and the better acid balance. Others' thoughts?
These days, I find myself serving all manner or reds and whites cooler than I used to. I think this is a function of the ways wines are changing with increasing delicacy, or perhaps I should say precision, of the aromatics and the better acid balance. Others' thoughts?