CWD: recent wines (2025-08)

VLM

VLM
2016 Ceritas Pinot Noir Elliott Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (8/2/2025)
Pretty pale red color. Spiced bright red fruits on the nose. Lively and balanced. Quite good, but not exceptional. Ready to go now. (90 points)

2017 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône Ceps Centenaires La Mémé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (8/3/2025)
Beautiful ruby color. Nose of baking spices and cherry compote. As it opens, there are savory garrigue and leather nuances. The structure is mostly resolved with enough frame to give shape to the fruit. Finishes long a lightly tannic. Didn't decant so the last glass was a bit cloudy. I love these wines, I find them truly special. (94 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8/4/2025)
This bottle was a little fresher than one a couple weeks back but left a similar impression. Heading towards full maturity. (89 points)

2024 Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo (8/4/2025)
Didn't work with the food we were having (it's too structured for what we needed) but holds up well in the fridge. I love how this borders on being a light red wine. Salty, herb tinged bright fruits. (91 points)

2020 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (8/7/2025)
I really wanted to check in on this and took it to dinner at an Italian restaurant. Wasn't a great match with some of our dishes, but the wine on it's own is fabulous. Candied citrus, white flowers, with a chalky underpinning. There is a hint of ginger with the subtle oak spice. It's under natural cork, so who knows but it seems to have the structure to age very gracefully. (93 points)

2023 Elio Altare Barbera d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (8/8/2025)
Bright, juicy, snappy, berry and plum fruit. Savory touches of leather and licorice around the edges. Nice acidity to keep it vibrant. Terrific drinking Barbera. It was so good and went so fast that we opened a second bottle. (91 points)

2023 Elio Altare Barbera d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (8/8/2025)
This is the aforementioned second bottle and it was every bit as charming as the first. (91 points)

2006 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (8/9/2025)
Double decanted about 4 hours before we consumed it. Seems more mature than I would have expected. Perhaps I should have just double decanted as we walked out the door. There is a core of sweet, dark cherry, both desiccated and not. Some balsamic notes, but mainly earthy leather and some savory herbs. There is still some structure left. I did not find it as drying as other recent reports but it was very good, not great. (91 points)

2020 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (8/9/2025)
Holy sea spray! One of the most intense salty/chalky wines I've had in recent memory. There is plenty of tart fruit underneath, but it has such density of minerals that it takes a while to get there. If you have multiple bottles, I'd open one now for the visceral thrill. This should age well. I'll check on another bottle in a year or so. I wish the price on these hadn't escalated so quickly, but I can't say it isn't worth it. (92 points)

NV Tarlant Champagne Zero Brut Nature - France, Champagne (8/11/2025)
From magnum, disgorged 02/2022, 2015 base vintage. Crisp and linear while still having some autolytic edges to the flavors. I like the lemon preserve note that Putnam identifies, but maybe there is a bit of preserved lemon as well? A masterclass in non-dosé Champagne, linear and mineral without being at all screechy. Really outstanding with food. (92 points)

2017 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) La Lune - France, Loire Valley, Vin de France (8/11/2025)
From magnum. Fascinating wine and also just plainly delicious. As it opens, it shows a spring field of florals and honeysuckle over the yellow plum and melon flavors. While it has a bit of mature burnt sugar notes on opening, that dissipates with air. It is medium bodied and has a little RS, but that isn't the defining quality. I love the mouthfeel and the drinkability. Ready to go now. (92 points)

2015 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (8/13/2025)
Deep ruby color with a classic nose of dark tilled earth and a slightly meaty note with nice, ripe dark cherry and berry fruit. Medium bodies with underlying savory notes. Gets grippy towards the finish but still juicy. As it opens, some lighter berries join the aromas but also the tannin feels a little coarse. I think this would have benefitted from being open or decanted for a 60-90 minutes, but we didn't have that kind of time. I went back to the bottle (that was simply recorked on the counter) the next day and it was much more berry inflected and silky without oxidizing. That leads me to think that either a couple more years or giving it a chance to breath more before consuming would yield even better results. (91 points)

2017 Istine Chianti Classico Riserva Levigne - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (8/15/2025)
Rich, silky and loaded with classic, very pure Sangiovese black cherry fruit. Saddle leather, licorice, and some herbs fill out the nose. Again, the palate is plush and silky but with acids keeping it in shape and and the fruit draped over a refined tannic structure. This really surprised me and almost seemed like a richer version of a Boncie wine. Delicious now and will age on its balance for years. (94 points)

2019 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (8/16/2025)
Silky with notes of spices and leather over ripe cherry fruit. Mild but persistent tannic grip. Woodsy notes and herbs complicate the nose as it opens. Really enjoyable and good to go now though I imagine it will last and even could improve in the coming years. (91 points)

2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC (8/16/2025)
I've had much better bottles of this. This one comes off a little shrill and flat. Citric, salty, and bracing but not showing the balancing fruit and flowers other bottles have. Maybe in an awkward spot or just a subpar bottle. (87 points)

2017 Caparsa Chianti Classico Caparsino Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (8/19/2025)
OK, quite improved over a previous bottle a few weeks ago. Serving temperature helped no doubt. Still structured and slightly rustic, especially when compared with the Istine Levigne, but with plenty of fruit to balance. Lots of herbs, woodsy, leathery, and other savory notes. Worked really well with a Flannery hanger steak. I think a couple more years should sand off the rough edges. (91 points)

2023 Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo (8/20/2025)
Excellent showing. Crunchy, zippy, red fruit with bitter citrus rind. Almost feels like some tannic grip with the salty, chalky acid structure. (92 points)

2019 Ch“teau Yvonne Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (8/22/2025)
Really nice bottle of this consistent with my bottle from last year. Nice floral and honeysuckle notes over the yellow pitted fruits and some nice mineral backbone. Really satisfying and great at the table. I may keep a bottle or two for science, but I don't see a need to hold this any longer although I suspect it will age just fine. (91 points)

2017 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (8/24/2025)
From magnum. A good showing for this. Nice texture, not grumpily tannic the way this wine can sometimes be if you catch it at the wrong moment. Josh nailed the flavors/aromas in his note: berries, cherry pit, licorice, violet, and spices. Nice length, was a hit. For some reason, I've found that magnums show more approachable for me than 750s, but that's probably just coincidence. On this showing, the wine is ready to go but like all Coudert will certainly last. (90 points)

2020 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/24/2025)
While I think Vinous overrates this a bit, I do agree on the "just-ripe pear" descriptor. Juicy and punchy with a nice mineral line down the middle. The acidity shapes it really well and makes it a great accompaniment to our mezze spread. I have no idea how this contemporary Huet Secs will age and I probably won't find out. Great now and I'll probably drink my remaining bottles over the next few years. (92 points)

2019 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (8/24/2025)
Kind of an odd showing and maybe because I had it after the Huet and the Roilette Tardive because it showed more sweetness than I remembered. These wines often have a bit of RS, and this was a an example of that with honeyed melon fruit and a big mouthfeel. These can often firm up with age and absorb some of that sweetness so I remain hopeful for the future. Would be a good choice now with spicy food or cheese. (88 points)

2019 Jérôme Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (8/25/2025)
This bottle really showed well and matched dinner perfectly, so I might be overrating it a bit, but it was an absolute stunner. MartyL has it right, plush deep berries on the nose. A little spice. Smooth and polished and velvety on the palate. There is some structure here as well, which carries the fruit for a long, pure, sappy finish. This is a bottle you really wish was a liter or more. I'm sure it will continue to age and develop, but if you have bottles it really is worth trying one now for the visceral thrill. I didn't expect this to be so good. (94 points)

2016 Eric Texier Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (8/26/2025)
The color is a purplish ruby with a nose cherry and berry, some floral pastille, and an undercurrent of mineral and garrigue. The fruit continues on the palate where it does add a bit of lavender and licorice to the minerals and garrigue. It starts out a bit compact and structured with fine tannins, not severe, but present. The acidity carries the fruit and savory notes through the finish. It does open with air over dinner during the next two hours and while it showed quite well, I think that in 2-3 more years it will be even better, potentially great. (92 points)

2021 Podere le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti) Le Trame Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (8/27/2025)
Interestingly, this bottle showed a much more savory character than the bottle I opened last year. There's still plenty of fruit and that magical Boncie texture. This will be great, but maybe I'll give it a 2-3 years before having another bottle if I can. That Boncie texture just calls to me sometimes and I can't resist. (92 points)

2018 Weiser-Künstler Trabener Gaispfad Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8/29/2025)
Really similar to my last bottle, so just to reiterate, there is a baked tree fruit element with a hint of ginger but what really strikes me is the "creamed corn" of rocks. It's interesting because this is better to just drink on it's own than with dinner tonight. Maybe it's just not up to the spicy Korean inspired pork. These wines are very good and have a sort of signature to them, but I like them rather than love them. (90 points)

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/29/2025)
Last bottle (how did that happen) and a delicious one. I've more or less decided not to age Huet Sec wines any more, just enjoy them for what they present now. Classic lovely yellow fruit, flowers, and minerals. In a perfectly balanced spot and has only the slightest honey notes. I kind of wish I had a few more as this will probably go a while longer. (92 points)

2014 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Rosé Emotion - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (8/29/2025)
Very similar to my 2023 bottle, except maybe slightly juicier. Cream, red fruits, some floral notes and a nice medium body. Probably the most "Vilmart" bottle of this I've had. Was very good with the food; however, this bottle didn't change my opinion on how it will age so I will drink my last bottle in the next few years. (92 points)

2018 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (8/29/2025)
Heading on a steady line from my last bottle in 2023. This is much fresher than you'd think given the vintage but maybe the farming and clonal diversity help with that. It definitely has picked up a tropical nuance to the more restrained white peach and yellow pitted fruits from a couple years ago. Really well balanced and drinking great now but these wines have a history of aging beautifully so there is no rush. (92 points)

2010 Elvio Cogno Barolo Bricco Pernice - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (8/30/2025)
Fine fruit and structure, but still Barolo. There is a nice spice and face powder over the cherry fruit. I get a subtle pine element. Good shape to the acids and I really liked the refined tannin structure. I think this is starting to be in an early drinking window and folks should check in if they have multiple bottles. I'll probably try another one in 2-3 years. (92 points)

2014 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Gruyaches - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (8/30/2025)
This is my last bottle and the first in 5 years. It is at apogee and seems to have followed a pretty predictable trajectory. Starting to show a bit of roasted nuts to go with the fruit and minerals. Nice acidity on the finish that is a bit broader than it used to. It has this particular quality, on both the nose and the palate, that I want to call stone soup, or maybe organoleptic cement. It has been and is a really lovely wine, sorry to see it go but it did us great service over the last decade. (92 points)

2012 Azienda Agricola San Giuseppe Brunello di Montalcino Stella di Campalto Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (8/30/2025)
Wow, this was a great showing although it reminded me more of Raya than other Brunello. Soft berry fruit and spice that is the beginning of the Rayas link, but then the texture on the palate is satiny, but well shaped. Some old leather top notes on the long finish. We had this with lighter food than the last time I tried to open a bottle and that really allowed it to shine, I think. I don't have a lot of experience, but I don't see this getting better for my palate. (94 points)

2014 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Clos des Carmes Brézé - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (8/30/2025)
This was quite good. Showed some reduction on the nose with nose of flint and gunpower overtop of crisp yellow fruits. As it aired it began to shake off some reduction and showed some minerals and floral nuance. On the palate it was medium bodied with ample acidity to carry the fruit through the finish. Didn't fade at all and was reported to still be going strong the next day. While this doesn't have the intense depth of Collier it does sit sort of in the middle of that and the "new Anjou" style. Really enjoyable now but should age well. (94 points)
 
originally posted by VLM:

2020 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/24/2025) have no idea how this contemporary Huet Secs will age and I probably won't find out. Great now and I'll probably drink my remaining bottles over the next few years...

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/29/2025)
I've more or less decided not to age Huet Sec wines any more...

Given the historical track record, this may seem like a sacrilegious approach. But, clear-eyed analysis probably needs to accept the changing times.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

2020 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/24/2025) have no idea how this contemporary Huet Secs will age and I probably won't find out. Great now and I'll probably drink my remaining bottles over the next few years...

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/29/2025)
I've more or less decided not to age Huet Sec wines any more...

Given the historical track record, this may seem like a sacrilegious approach. But, clear-eyed analysis probably needs to accept the changing times.

Funny thing is that it turns out I don't have any remaining bottles of the 2020 just a couple 2019 and a few more 2021. I'm perfectly OK with how they are now, they're delicious. There are plenty of other Chenin based wines that really demand cellaring.
 
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