PICHON LALANDE/PICHON BARON DINNER - YH Beijing - SF (7/31/2025)
Champagne
NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 160eme - France, Champagne
This showed really beautifully tonight. Great, intense acidity, a lively bead, and lots of citrus, herbs, salt, and lemon peel on the nose and on the palate. Surprisingly, it doesn't taste as autolytic and heavy as other examples of the Grande Cuvee I've had in the past. Perhaps a good amount of bottle age added a little buoyancy and vibrancy to this bottle. Electric stuff with great finesse.
2000
2000 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This has a nice nose that has a little graphite going on with just a touch of wood intermixed with the dark red fruit aromas. The palate has a similar dark red fruit character that tastes relatively open with a hint of sweetness; it then develops into a spice-laden finish. Tannins are surprisingly approachable now considering the vintage. Definitely a little more fruit-driven than the 2000 Pichon Lalande, but this is nice.
2000 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I'm getting cedar, pencil shavings, and green notes on the nose. The palate is quite savory and mineral with beautiful herbal, graphite, and smoky cured tobacco notes gracing the dark fruit. Acidity is quite nice, and, for me, the tannins with some foods, while grippy, are not too furry or drying. I'm liking this now, but there is plenty of upside with additional cellaring.
1996
1996 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The nose is very shut down, the structure feels soft, and while the red fruit is open and generous, it tastes a little stewed and the perceived acidity is lacking. It just doesn't have the tension to be interesting, comes across as a little flat, and probably was a little cooked. (NR/flawed)
1996 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Again, I get another beautiful nose here with hints of green pepper intermingling with the aromas of cassis. The palate is elegant with cool dark fruit, cracked black pepper, that graphite minerality and cured tobacco notes. While the fruit gains some sweetness with air, it nevertheless has less heft and weight than the 2000. The tannins already feel integrated and approachable. Another terrific showing for Pichon Lalande.
1989
1989 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The nose is super sweet and intense while the dark fruit has this luminescence that is just on the brink of feeling a little too ripe, but is held back enough, and has enough layers of cured tobacco and graphite minerality to add complexity, to maintain balance on the palate. Acidity in on point and tannins are pretty much resolved. While the fruit is quite delicious, it does taste like it is perhaps teetering towards becoming a touch maderized and advanced (essentially, a much less extreme version of the stewy '96 Pichon Baron). This is not to say this wine needs to be drunk up, but it may be heading towards slightly past peak.
1989 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
After pulling the cork out of the bottle, I immediately get an classic expressive nose of cassis and florals that just leaps out of the bottle. After decanting, I take a sip of the sediment and get opulent dark fruit, some graphite and minerals, not that much cured tobacco or smokiness. This is quite rich, and leaves a tangy and warming sensation on its long finish. However, after putting this back into bottle and letting it sit for about a 2 hours, I take a proper pour at dinner, and this has become more elegant and precise, the fruit cools down and tastes redder, and the graphite minerality becomes more pronounced, enhanced with touches of leather. Tannins are silky and resolved, acidity is balanced and integrated, and all of these components swirl together into an elixir that shimmies and dances on the palate. This is right where I would want it and will probably hold at this peak for a long time.
1985/1986
1985 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This has sweet fruit and a touch of smoke, although it does feel a little soft. Overall, a nice wine, but not as enticing as either the '89 or 2000. A nice example of the appellation and the vintage, with its elegance and translucence, but not a showstopper either.
1986 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Wow, another great example of '80s Pichon Lalande. Tart and bright on the palate with its intense red fruit and a penetrating flavor of scorched creosote and charcoal on the finish. Nice tanginess from the acidity with firm, grippy tannins; the structure here is impressively scaled and has years to go. Nonetheless, this is still elegant and well-balanced, and while I'm rather tannin-tolerant, I still feel this is drinking very well right now.
1982
1982 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Wow, to quote a wise man, this wine bombs atomically. Beautifully expressive nose that's layered with floral, dark fruit, and woodsy aromas. There's feather-light elegance on the palate that has well-integrated, fresh acidity that seamlessly pairs with its creamy, spherical texture. Tannins are resolved at this point and have completely melted into the wine's sleek composition. The flavors are layered and complex, suffused with dark red fruit and notes of cedar, graphite and a hint of lifted blood orange citrus that fans out into a long, long finish. I often associate "weightless intensity" with red Burgundy, but it was so interesting to see that ideal achieved by this wine, while still remaining firmly within the rubric of Bordeaux.
A top 10 red wine in my life. So happy we managed to get a perfect bottle (and if this wine wasn't perfectly stored, I can't even imagine what a perfectly stored version of this wine would taste like).
To quote another wise man, this wine was very much the Osiris of this shit.
2003
2003 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I had this last year, and while I would still say it isn't too over done, the nose is quite ripe and the palate comes across as a little too fruit forward and soft (especially after having this immediately after the 80s Pichons). There's a touch of smoky tobacco and a hint of grip, but not too exciting (though this may be a case of comparison being the thief of joy).
2003 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Surprisingly green on the nose. Unsurprisingly fruit forward, though there is decent acidity and a little grippiness on the finish. Ok, but definitely not the best vintage of Lalande.
2010
2010 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Still very young and primary. Definitely closed and perhaps a little too ripe and unbalanced? Again, hard to read. This needs a couple more years before revisiting.
2010 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
While not quite the black hole of tannins like it was when I last had this wine a couple of years ago, it sill is just very shut down and hard to read. Dark red fruit, but just very flat and tannic. This is going to need a long time to come around
2019
2019 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Obviously, still very tannic and young, but more open and approachable than the 2010. There's a nice balance to the wine with sweet, primary fruit. Enjoyable.
2019 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Very nice, promising young wine. Definitely can get a sense of the complexity with a nice touch of herbs and graphite intertwined with the primary fruit. Plenty tannic, and needs a lot of time, but this will probably evolve into something quite nice.
Champagne
NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 160eme - France, Champagne
This showed really beautifully tonight. Great, intense acidity, a lively bead, and lots of citrus, herbs, salt, and lemon peel on the nose and on the palate. Surprisingly, it doesn't taste as autolytic and heavy as other examples of the Grande Cuvee I've had in the past. Perhaps a good amount of bottle age added a little buoyancy and vibrancy to this bottle. Electric stuff with great finesse.
2000
2000 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This has a nice nose that has a little graphite going on with just a touch of wood intermixed with the dark red fruit aromas. The palate has a similar dark red fruit character that tastes relatively open with a hint of sweetness; it then develops into a spice-laden finish. Tannins are surprisingly approachable now considering the vintage. Definitely a little more fruit-driven than the 2000 Pichon Lalande, but this is nice.
2000 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I'm getting cedar, pencil shavings, and green notes on the nose. The palate is quite savory and mineral with beautiful herbal, graphite, and smoky cured tobacco notes gracing the dark fruit. Acidity is quite nice, and, for me, the tannins with some foods, while grippy, are not too furry or drying. I'm liking this now, but there is plenty of upside with additional cellaring.
1996
1996 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The nose is very shut down, the structure feels soft, and while the red fruit is open and generous, it tastes a little stewed and the perceived acidity is lacking. It just doesn't have the tension to be interesting, comes across as a little flat, and probably was a little cooked. (NR/flawed)
1996 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Again, I get another beautiful nose here with hints of green pepper intermingling with the aromas of cassis. The palate is elegant with cool dark fruit, cracked black pepper, that graphite minerality and cured tobacco notes. While the fruit gains some sweetness with air, it nevertheless has less heft and weight than the 2000. The tannins already feel integrated and approachable. Another terrific showing for Pichon Lalande.
1989
1989 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The nose is super sweet and intense while the dark fruit has this luminescence that is just on the brink of feeling a little too ripe, but is held back enough, and has enough layers of cured tobacco and graphite minerality to add complexity, to maintain balance on the palate. Acidity in on point and tannins are pretty much resolved. While the fruit is quite delicious, it does taste like it is perhaps teetering towards becoming a touch maderized and advanced (essentially, a much less extreme version of the stewy '96 Pichon Baron). This is not to say this wine needs to be drunk up, but it may be heading towards slightly past peak.
1989 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
After pulling the cork out of the bottle, I immediately get an classic expressive nose of cassis and florals that just leaps out of the bottle. After decanting, I take a sip of the sediment and get opulent dark fruit, some graphite and minerals, not that much cured tobacco or smokiness. This is quite rich, and leaves a tangy and warming sensation on its long finish. However, after putting this back into bottle and letting it sit for about a 2 hours, I take a proper pour at dinner, and this has become more elegant and precise, the fruit cools down and tastes redder, and the graphite minerality becomes more pronounced, enhanced with touches of leather. Tannins are silky and resolved, acidity is balanced and integrated, and all of these components swirl together into an elixir that shimmies and dances on the palate. This is right where I would want it and will probably hold at this peak for a long time.
1985/1986
1985 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This has sweet fruit and a touch of smoke, although it does feel a little soft. Overall, a nice wine, but not as enticing as either the '89 or 2000. A nice example of the appellation and the vintage, with its elegance and translucence, but not a showstopper either.
1986 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Wow, another great example of '80s Pichon Lalande. Tart and bright on the palate with its intense red fruit and a penetrating flavor of scorched creosote and charcoal on the finish. Nice tanginess from the acidity with firm, grippy tannins; the structure here is impressively scaled and has years to go. Nonetheless, this is still elegant and well-balanced, and while I'm rather tannin-tolerant, I still feel this is drinking very well right now.
1982
1982 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Wow, to quote a wise man, this wine bombs atomically. Beautifully expressive nose that's layered with floral, dark fruit, and woodsy aromas. There's feather-light elegance on the palate that has well-integrated, fresh acidity that seamlessly pairs with its creamy, spherical texture. Tannins are resolved at this point and have completely melted into the wine's sleek composition. The flavors are layered and complex, suffused with dark red fruit and notes of cedar, graphite and a hint of lifted blood orange citrus that fans out into a long, long finish. I often associate "weightless intensity" with red Burgundy, but it was so interesting to see that ideal achieved by this wine, while still remaining firmly within the rubric of Bordeaux.
A top 10 red wine in my life. So happy we managed to get a perfect bottle (and if this wine wasn't perfectly stored, I can't even imagine what a perfectly stored version of this wine would taste like).
To quote another wise man, this wine was very much the Osiris of this shit.
2003
2003 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
I had this last year, and while I would still say it isn't too over done, the nose is quite ripe and the palate comes across as a little too fruit forward and soft (especially after having this immediately after the 80s Pichons). There's a touch of smoky tobacco and a hint of grip, but not too exciting (though this may be a case of comparison being the thief of joy).
2003 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Surprisingly green on the nose. Unsurprisingly fruit forward, though there is decent acidity and a little grippiness on the finish. Ok, but definitely not the best vintage of Lalande.
2010
2010 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Still very young and primary. Definitely closed and perhaps a little too ripe and unbalanced? Again, hard to read. This needs a couple more years before revisiting.
2010 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
While not quite the black hole of tannins like it was when I last had this wine a couple of years ago, it sill is just very shut down and hard to read. Dark red fruit, but just very flat and tannic. This is going to need a long time to come around
2019
2019 Ch“teau Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Obviously, still very tannic and young, but more open and approachable than the 2010. There's a nice balance to the wine with sweet, primary fruit. Enjoyable.
2019 Ch“teau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Very nice, promising young wine. Definitely can get a sense of the complexity with a nice touch of herbs and graphite intertwined with the primary fruit. Plenty tannic, and needs a lot of time, but this will probably evolve into something quite nice.
