CWD: recent wines (2025-10)

VLM

VLM
Nice mix of old and new.

2004 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (10/3/2025)
Alongside Rougeard Bourg. I haven't had a bottle of this in 9 years. Maybe that was too long? The nose is really driven by tobacco ash and smoke elements with dried red fruits and minerals underneath. Medium bodied, I like it better on the palate than the nose where the fruit pops a bit more and it has a nice silky presence with edges put up by the last scaffold of tannin and the acidity you get from this site. I wish I had a note between 2016 and now. Trying to do better with that. Time to drink these. (90 points)

2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (10/3/2025)
Alongside Baudry Croix Boissée. It's been 6 years since I've had a bottle of this. Bright ruby color with no bricking yet. Powerful nose of green tobacco and ash over ripe cherries. Really silky and long on the palate. I preferred the overall package of this to the Baudry, but Noel preferred the Baudry. As I've often found to be the case, they're not as far apart as price would make it seem. Drinking well now, but this can probably go on for years if past experience is any guide. (93 points)

2014 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (10/3/2025)
This was a stunning bottle of wine. Starts out a bit shy but then unfurls a smoky, stony obelisk draped in green and yellow fruits. Some slight floral notes, but it is the stone at the center that brings your focus. The texture is more top class Chablis than the usual Muscadet and I've always found that this cuvée should be used at the table in the same way. It really just goes and goes. I have a 3L left but that's it. I'm not sure it can get better but it doesn't seem like it will drop off a hill any time soon. I need to find an occasion for the 3L. (94 points)

2022 Domaine de l'Horizon Côtes Catalanes Esprit de l'Horizon Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes (10/4/2025)
My experience with this producer has been with the flagship wine which is bracing and dense. This wine felt a little broad and flabby. Nectarine fruit but little of the ocean spray and minerals I remember from the top bottling. Not bad, but rather innocuous, so I moved on to a different wine. (87 points)

2023 Domaine du Pas de l'Escalette Coteaux du Languedoc Les Clapas - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc (10/4/2025)
This was much more what I was expecting from the Horizon. Flowers, sea spray, and rocks intermingled with an array of yellow and orange fruits. Driving and energetic. Made me want to be by the ocean with fresh seafood. (91 points)

2013 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (10/6/2025)
Lovely pale ruby color with a nose that really shows the spice nuances leading into a cherry and red currant tart fruit. Really graceful and resolved on the palate, I think this is in a superb drinking window. I really love the way the texture lets the spice and fruit meld together spread over a frame of chalky but light and fine tannins. (93 points)

2016 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (10/7/2025)
After the 2013 the night before, I wanted to check in on the 2016, wow, was it good. More directly fruity than the 2013 with sweet red cherry fruit, blood orange, mint, and spice notes. Really beautiful shape and texture. Bright acidity married with absolutely silky mouthfeel with enough tannins to help hold the shape. This is drinking great today and based on the overall balance should age well. (94 points)

2022 Monte Rio Cellars Zinfandel Old Vines - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi (10/8/2025)
This bottle showed a little fruitier and less savory than my bottle last month, but still has nice acidity which makes it juicy. This showing makes me a little less confident in a 5-7 year window, maybe closer to 3-5. This is a delicious wine and a great value. (90 points)

2011 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (10/9/2025)
Wasn't as expressive on the nose as previous bottles, but dark, sensual and complex on the palate. Spice, leather, savory notes and lush fruit compote. This wine is so silk now, it's easy to drink it fast and miss all the complexity. This has such an artisanal feel to it, because it is truly made by an artisan from his garden. (92 points)

2002 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (10/12/2025)
In line with previous bottles, although this didn't have much time to breath before we started drinking it so it started a bit tighter and more mineral than I remember. After about 45 minutes it unfurled to the more recognizable maturity that other bottles have shown. Really pale ruby color with a slightly watery rim. This is an archetype for what is meant by "bottle sweetness". Flowers, earth, a touch of spice a bit of a hint of tart red fruits and the slightest of grip. I'm not sure how long this will keep drinking so well because it has been drinking great for 10 years. A throwback style that probably isn't even possible anymore. (93 points)

1997 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains (10/12/2025)
These wines are just so fantastic and might be my favorite Cabernets made in CA. Deep, dark fruit mixed with cedar, spice, leather and graphite earth. Has a mountain coolness to the fruit married with juicy richness. The tannins are mostly resolved. This showed a little more graphite and savory notes than my last bottle or the recent 1999 and the fruit was more black currant. This is drinking superbly. (94 points)

2015 Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay 1er Cru Champans - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (10/12/2025)
Clear garnet/ruby color. The nose has a briary berry quality that nicely compliments a tarter red berry. There are some nice spice hints and a bit of forest. The tannins are well integrated and resolving. Medium bodied with excellent palate presence and nice length. I think this is in a great spot for current drinking and a lovely style of wine. (92 points)

2017 Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (10/14/2025)
Distinctly Tuscan herbs on top of bright cherry and cranberry fruit. Really lacey and fine with some tannic bite on the finish. Has the feel of a really refined wine. This is OK to drink now but I think a little time in the cellar will soften the back end a touch. I really liked this. (93 points)

2018 Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (10/15/2025)
Wow, this was even better than the 2017 the night before. The same theme of Tuscan herbs and tart red fruits, but with layers of spice added and a really velvety texture. Less tannic. This could very well age on its balance, but it is superb today. I've only had 4-5 vintages of this wine, but it is certainly among the best Brunellos in my mind. (94 points)

2020 Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (10/20/2025)
My last bottle was corked, but this was not and it was delicious. Yellow fruits with a touch of florals and an underlying mineral edge. Just a hint of almond skin, or maybe it's just the power of suggestion form this Meursault producer. I don't buy much Bourgogne Blanc because wines from other appellations usually kick their asses for the price, but this is a really good wine and value. (91 points)

2023 Domaine du Pas de l'Escalette Pays d'Hérault Ze Cinsault - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pays d'Hérault (10/21/2025)
Juicy, joyous and sunny. Cinsault is well adapted to the climate here and this is a great example of a fresh, balanced wine. Not really a tannic profile to speak of, just verve and freshness. Nice floral lift to the berry fruit. (90 points)

2020 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (10/24/2025)
My first bottle from a case. Another in a long line of excellent vintages of this wine. Honeysuckle and honeycomb notes over more traditional Chardonnay fruits. There is a cool ginger thing going on with spices at the finish. It does have a bit of the kinky tropical fruit notes but then more acidity than you would think. Good to approach now, but sure to age. I've found that the wines can become a bit leaner with bottle age. (92 points)

2005 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (10/26/2025)
Seemed a bit more diffuse than my bottle 18 months ago. That could be from being served alongside the Gramenon Mémé. A bit of forest floor and the fruit is desiccating a bit now. Some spice and dried flowers. I think it's definitely time to check in. I may have preferred this in its exuberant youth. (90 points)

2016 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône Ceps Centenaires La Mémé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (10/26/2025)
Of a piece with my bottle 18 months ago. Very similar notes. Deeply fruited with excellent length and overall balance. Wild herbs and stone scents on the berry/cherry compote center with hints of spice. There is a type of sweetness to the fruit and a sort of brambly, floral meadow sense that makes this wine singular. I find it to be drinking well now with some room for growth and at least another 10 years. (93 points)

2014 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/26/2025)
A very approachable and delicious version of Coeur. Lovely balance of fruit and mineral tension. Best of all, this is already drinking well. (93 points)

2010 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (10/29/2025)
I agree with other tasters who said this was airy and silky. For me, very much in the resolved zone with just enough tannic structure to scaffold the maturing red fruits. Complex with some floral and orange peel nuances but also savory and gamey notes. The texture is the thing though, weightless and gossamer. Bravo. It's been five years since my first bottle of this and I think my last two will go in the next five. (93 points)

2009 Domaine du Meix-Foulot Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Ch“teau de Montaigu - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru (10/30/2025)
From Magnum. Plenty of maturing notes of sous bois and leather with the fruit predominantly dried cherry. Nice balance and pleasant enough, although the tannins are a bit rustic. I thought this would have developed a bit more bottle sweetness by now, maybe I'm too early for that. Pleasant and satisfying. (89 points)
 
Impressive notes on interesting wines. You have an admirable (and enviable) talent for ID'ing and describing wine components.

Too bad your Chinon didn't show better. Had the Domaine du Colombier Chinon '20 the other night and it was delicious.

I wish Eric's wines still came into our market. Our loss!

Thanks for posting.

. . . . . . Pete
 
originally posted by VLM:

2014 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson
...I need to find an occasion for the 3L...

Thanksgiving? Christmas? Wherever the numbers match.

originally posted by VLM:

2015 Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay 1er Cru Champans - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (10/12/2025)
Clear garnet/ruby color. The nose has a briary berry quality that nicely compliments a tarter red berry. There are some nice spice hints and a bit of forest. The tannins are well integrated and resolving. Medium bodied with excellent palate presence and nice length. I think this is in a great spot for current drinking and a lovely style of wine. (92 points)

Nice. I had a bottle of 2015 Voillot Fremiets a few months ago that was in a pretty similar place. I thought there was no hurry to consume my last bottles, but also no great need to wait (for my palate).
 
When Eric retires, I will miss his wines. The 2010 Cote Rotie was lovely stuff.

And the Clisson sounds lovely. I wish I had some older vintages in my cellar. An '07 Clisson Jim opened a couple of years ago was a revelation.

Luckily, I have '02, '04 and '05 Bregeon Reserve waiting in the wings...
 
originally posted by VLM:
CWD: recent wines (2025-10)Nice mix of old and new.

2014 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (10/3/2025)
This was a stunning bottle of wine. Starts out a bit shy but then unfurls a smoky, stony obelisk draped in green and yellow fruits. Some slight floral notes, but it is the stone at the center that brings your focus. The texture is more top class Chablis than the usual Muscadet and I've always found that this cuvée should be used at the table in the same way. It really just goes and goes. I have a 3L left but that's it. I'm not sure it can get better but it doesn't seem like it will drop off a hill any time soon. I need to find an occasion for the 3L. (94 points)

i long since finished mine. it wasn't a year i wanted to remember. but your note captures teh recollection perfectly, which in turn makes me wonder if maybe this was teh peak for this wine (fastink shouts, "17?").

which is to say that, in general at least, teh less frequent encounters with later vintages haven't come close to hitting teh same heights.

fb. (3l is kinda bittersweet. dunno what kind of occasion would necessarily work.)
 
originally posted by VLM:

2016 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (10/7/2025)
After the 2013 the night before, I wanted to check in on the 2016, wow, was it good. More directly fruity than the 2013 with sweet red cherry fruit, blood orange, mint, and spice notes. Really beautiful shape and texture. Bright acidity married with absolutely silky mouthfeel with enough tannins to help hold the shape. This is drinking great today and based on the overall balance should age well. (94 points)

Many thanks for your thoughts on this wine. Now to decide when I want to open mine.

Mark Lipton
 
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