Some old friends, some new to me, some nice surprises, and some mild disappointments.
2019 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett "Athuro" #13 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/3/2025)
It's been two and a half years since my last bottle and I think that this wine has come together. It used to open with earthy stones, but now the fruit is part of it much earlier. Juicy and persistent with citrus powdered stones. (92 points)
2016 Cantine del Castello di Conti Boca Il Rosso delle Donne - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (11/4/2025)
The broad outline of the bottle I had two years ago was there, but it didn't show as well as I hoped. Still had the nice tart cherry fruit and florals, but was a little austere. This was pop-and-pour and enjoyed over dinner so maybe I should have given it a bit of air. Still developing, I think. Check back in 1-2 years. (90 points)
2019 Bedrock Wine Co. Lorenzo's Heritage - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley (11/5/2025)
This showing was a bit puzzling. I really like both the Teldeschi vineyard and Bedrock so I had big expectations. Everything was a bit muted and slightly disjoint. There was old vine intensity to the flavors but things seemed to weave and dodge and never really settled into a groove. I think I'll try another in a few months and try a different food pairing (this was calamari shaped pasta with kale and sausage). (89 points)
2013 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (11/7/2025)
While not as absolutely stunning as the bottle a month prior, this was still a lovely Alto Nebbiolo. A little less silky with the fruit a little less vibrant, but otherwise showing the same. (91 points)
2022 Gulfi Sicilia Nerojbleo - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (11/8/2025)
Joyful, exuberant, and tart red and black fruits with floral and savory hints. I really like the texture, which is voluptuous without any flab. Just the right amount of tannic grip, but it's the sense of freshness that really appeals. I could see this becoming a house staple. (92 points)
2019 Tenuta Olim Bauda Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza (11/9/2025)
After a recent DaCapo Nizza from the same vintage, I had high hopes. This had a similar density but more reserved and with some oak sticking out. Frankly, it reminds me of my first experience with the 2019 DaCapo and that wine came around beautifully. It's probably worth cellaring a few bottles to see, but the elongated, non-standard bottle is a racking misfit so I probably won't. (89 points)
2016 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières Les Impenitents - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (11/10/2025)
My last bottle of this and it was a doozy (note, I should have decanted off of sediment). Beautiful blueberry and blackberry fruit with brambles. You really sense the old vine depth. Some slight hints of that maturing Gamay sous bois, which puts it in a perfect spot for me. Really delicious and did not last very long. For me in the perfect drinking window. (93 points)
2010 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (11/11/2025)
Every bit as good as my 2020 bottle, if more evolved. The fruit was on the redder end of the spectrum now with more spice to the fruit and forest floor. There is great shape to the wine and it worked really well at the table. My sense is that this will continue developing in a more-or-less linear fashion. However, for my tastes, the youthful structure has subsided and there is a nice balance of remaining bright fruit and developing nuance so in a fine spot now. (92 points)
2024 Gulfi Sicilia Rossojbleo - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (11/12/2025)
This might be apex glou-glou Nero d'Avola along with COS Nero di Lupo. Speaking of which, this has a little brighter and redder fruit profile and a bit less lushness. It's snappy, fine, and great at the table. Also an excellent value. (90 points)
2020 Pian dell'Orino Rosso di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino (11/13/2025)
Damn this is good. Silky without being too polished. Juicy and lithe but still with some backbone. This has a subtle intensity that I associate with old vines, but I don't think that's the case here. Maybe it's just great genetic material and great farming. There is a catch though, it's quite expensive for RdM. It's hard to call it overpriced since it is so good, but it does make it more of a splurge than an everyday wine. Ready to drink now and should do so for a while and potentially improve. (92 points)
2016 Guiborat Fils Champagne Grand Cru De Caurés à Mont-Aigu - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (11/14/2025)
Dry, chalky, intense. There is some depth to the fruit and some slight leesy qualities, but this is really about laser-like precision and focus. It should continue to deepen and improve, but it's really enjoyable now for its current qualities. This isn't a producer I have a long track record with and I'm generally unsure about how low dosage Champagne will age. (92 points)
2016 Bedrock Wine Co. Heritage Wine Pagani Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (11/16/2025)
This was not particularly aromatic, just some deeply pitched berry fruit and that Pagani darkness (Alicante Bouchet?). Dense and chewy on the palate with good length to the fruit and firm tannins. Overall, a bit blocky. I still have high expectations based on my faith in the site and the producer based on other vintages. I'll give it 2-3 years before checking back in. (90 points)
2019 Gulfi Sicilia Nerosanlorè - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (11/17/2025)
More serious and reserved than the other Gulfi I've tried recently, but with a great depth of fruit, acid balance and texture. The tannins are a bit more present than I expected. If those resolve, this will be great. It has all the elements. I think I'll put a few aside to see what happens. (92 points)
2021 Chiara Condello Romagna Predappio Riserva Le Lucciole - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Romagna (11/18/2025)
Pretty color and nose of flowers and tart red fruits. Silky on the palate, but with some sneaky structure. This is quite good, but not sure if I need it due to the price. (92 points)
2011 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains (11/19/2025)
Mount Eden is a real sweet spot for me. Hits the fleshy black currant and dark cherry buttons with a really cool dark mineral, graphite freshness. This is in a great place now but given past performance may get even better. (94 points)
2007 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (11/23/2025)
My last bottle of a case and showing really well carrying on from my previous bottle in 2021 and with identical notes. Beautiful fruit, smoke and game with hints of forest and a beautiful spice nuance. The macerated cherries and plums are sweet without being overdone and there is just enough structure to hold it all in place and work really well at the table. The cork was soaked (as they all were from the same source) so bottles that are in more pristine condition might be behind this aging curve. (93 points)
2019 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/23/2025)
Best bottle yet. Really impressed with the sweet, floral fruit on the nose with hints of orange zest. The palate was silky and beautiful. This is great now. I guess it can probably last, but I don't think it will necessarily get better. (92 points)
2013 Platinetti Guido Ghemme Vigna Ronco al Maso - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (11/24/2025)
I'm not sure whether this needs more time or whether it will always be more angular than the 2010 and 2012 which both showed much more resolved in the last year. All the right Alto Nebbiolo aromas and flavors and a very nice mid-weight wine. The tannins just seemed a little bit firm for the fruit, at least to my palate. If you have more bottles it might be worth waiting a year or two to see if the structure resolves. I have some more recent vintages and will continue to follow this producer. BTW, the Guido little wines are also really good. (89 points)
2015 Poderi Colla Barolo Riserva Bussia Beppe Colla - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/25/2025)
Wow, this was really good! Took to a restaurant and they decanted it right away and we started in on it 30-45 minutes later. I had no idea what to expect, what I got seemed a bit like a throwback in terms of aromas and flavors, but without the rustic texture of wines from the 60s and 70s. Sumptuous fruit, tobacco, incense, spice, and dried flowers on the nose. The palate was silky with lovely sustained fruit. The structure felt more-or-less resolved to me. This is the first vintage of this wine and I bought it and have never tried it, so was really happy to get this read. It's pretty expensive, but when you consider that it's ready to drink now, maybe that's a fair tradeoff. For me, this is good to go now. It should keep for a while as well. (94 points)
2022 Punset Langhe Neh! - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/26/2025)
This was a fun and punchy blend of Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo (no idea what percentages). Just juicy enough and a little rustic. A bit of tannin, good fruit but not a fruity wine. This is really fairly priced and a great everyday red. (88 points)
NV Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Terroirs Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (11/27/2025)
This bottle was base 2016 (d.02/2020). This has started to take on some more mature notes but retains it's Côte des Blancs freshness and precision. I only have a bottle of this disgorgement left and will drink it over the next year, I expect. (91 points)
2016 Laherte Frères Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Grandes Crayères - France, Champagne (11/27/2025)
I love how fresh this still almost six years after disgorgement (d.02/2020). It's started to develop some autolytic notes but the chalkiness still screams Chardonnay. Nice comparison with the Agrapart Terroirs from the same vintage base and disgorgement. (92 points)
2018 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (11/27/2025)
This was a somewhat perplexing showing for this wine and I think it's going through a somewhat awkward stage. We opened two bottles and both showed similarly. There is that Collier richness and hints of lanolin but it was a bit clunky on the palate without the typical grace. I'll probably try another bottle soon just to confirm this showing. (89 points)
2005 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (11/27/2025)
Unlike my buddy brooklynguy, I did have a chance to double decant this magnum a few hours before dinner. We actually had the same magnum over the summer that I think I liked more than he did and thought it showed better than the bottle tonight (but memory is a fragile thing). I don't think this is yet all it can be but it still showed nice sous bois elements and silky fruit. A couple of wines had odd showings, so maybe it was just one of those nights where things just didn't show their best. That being said, it was emptied pretty fast. I'll wait a year or two to open another magnum, unless I don't. (92 points)
2017 Ch“teau L'Eglise-Clinet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (11/27/2025)
The dark purple color gives aromas of violets, cocoa powder, and silky blackberry fruit. Sumptuous and long with the buried tannins making themselves felt on the finish. The fruit finishes deep and long but not at all ponderous. I'm quite smitten with this wine. If you have a bunch it's worth checking in but it is sure to improve for years, probably decades. (94 points)
2022 Matthiasson Zinfandel Old Vine Armor Plate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (11/30/2025)
I was really excited to try this, really old vine Zinfandel in Jill and Steve's hands. It shows a pale magenta and is somewhat grumpy on opening. We decant into a carafe in the restaurant which helps. Pretty strawberry and floral notes. At only 13.0% alcohol it is lithe and tangy. There are some savory notes and I gather this is partially whole cluster. A really interesting take on Zinfandel but may be a bit too pricey to be in our regular rotation. If they keep making it, I'll keep trying it. (90 points)
2019 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett "Athuro" #13 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/3/2025)
It's been two and a half years since my last bottle and I think that this wine has come together. It used to open with earthy stones, but now the fruit is part of it much earlier. Juicy and persistent with citrus powdered stones. (92 points)
2016 Cantine del Castello di Conti Boca Il Rosso delle Donne - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (11/4/2025)
The broad outline of the bottle I had two years ago was there, but it didn't show as well as I hoped. Still had the nice tart cherry fruit and florals, but was a little austere. This was pop-and-pour and enjoyed over dinner so maybe I should have given it a bit of air. Still developing, I think. Check back in 1-2 years. (90 points)
2019 Bedrock Wine Co. Lorenzo's Heritage - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley (11/5/2025)
This showing was a bit puzzling. I really like both the Teldeschi vineyard and Bedrock so I had big expectations. Everything was a bit muted and slightly disjoint. There was old vine intensity to the flavors but things seemed to weave and dodge and never really settled into a groove. I think I'll try another in a few months and try a different food pairing (this was calamari shaped pasta with kale and sausage). (89 points)
2013 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Lessona (11/7/2025)
While not as absolutely stunning as the bottle a month prior, this was still a lovely Alto Nebbiolo. A little less silky with the fruit a little less vibrant, but otherwise showing the same. (91 points)
2022 Gulfi Sicilia Nerojbleo - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (11/8/2025)
Joyful, exuberant, and tart red and black fruits with floral and savory hints. I really like the texture, which is voluptuous without any flab. Just the right amount of tannic grip, but it's the sense of freshness that really appeals. I could see this becoming a house staple. (92 points)
2019 Tenuta Olim Bauda Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza (11/9/2025)
After a recent DaCapo Nizza from the same vintage, I had high hopes. This had a similar density but more reserved and with some oak sticking out. Frankly, it reminds me of my first experience with the 2019 DaCapo and that wine came around beautifully. It's probably worth cellaring a few bottles to see, but the elongated, non-standard bottle is a racking misfit so I probably won't. (89 points)
2016 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières Les Impenitents - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (11/10/2025)
My last bottle of this and it was a doozy (note, I should have decanted off of sediment). Beautiful blueberry and blackberry fruit with brambles. You really sense the old vine depth. Some slight hints of that maturing Gamay sous bois, which puts it in a perfect spot for me. Really delicious and did not last very long. For me in the perfect drinking window. (93 points)
2010 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (11/11/2025)
Every bit as good as my 2020 bottle, if more evolved. The fruit was on the redder end of the spectrum now with more spice to the fruit and forest floor. There is great shape to the wine and it worked really well at the table. My sense is that this will continue developing in a more-or-less linear fashion. However, for my tastes, the youthful structure has subsided and there is a nice balance of remaining bright fruit and developing nuance so in a fine spot now. (92 points)
2024 Gulfi Sicilia Rossojbleo - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (11/12/2025)
This might be apex glou-glou Nero d'Avola along with COS Nero di Lupo. Speaking of which, this has a little brighter and redder fruit profile and a bit less lushness. It's snappy, fine, and great at the table. Also an excellent value. (90 points)
2020 Pian dell'Orino Rosso di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino (11/13/2025)
Damn this is good. Silky without being too polished. Juicy and lithe but still with some backbone. This has a subtle intensity that I associate with old vines, but I don't think that's the case here. Maybe it's just great genetic material and great farming. There is a catch though, it's quite expensive for RdM. It's hard to call it overpriced since it is so good, but it does make it more of a splurge than an everyday wine. Ready to drink now and should do so for a while and potentially improve. (92 points)
2016 Guiborat Fils Champagne Grand Cru De Caurés à Mont-Aigu - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (11/14/2025)
Dry, chalky, intense. There is some depth to the fruit and some slight leesy qualities, but this is really about laser-like precision and focus. It should continue to deepen and improve, but it's really enjoyable now for its current qualities. This isn't a producer I have a long track record with and I'm generally unsure about how low dosage Champagne will age. (92 points)
2016 Bedrock Wine Co. Heritage Wine Pagani Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (11/16/2025)
This was not particularly aromatic, just some deeply pitched berry fruit and that Pagani darkness (Alicante Bouchet?). Dense and chewy on the palate with good length to the fruit and firm tannins. Overall, a bit blocky. I still have high expectations based on my faith in the site and the producer based on other vintages. I'll give it 2-3 years before checking back in. (90 points)
2019 Gulfi Sicilia Nerosanlorè - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia (11/17/2025)
More serious and reserved than the other Gulfi I've tried recently, but with a great depth of fruit, acid balance and texture. The tannins are a bit more present than I expected. If those resolve, this will be great. It has all the elements. I think I'll put a few aside to see what happens. (92 points)
2021 Chiara Condello Romagna Predappio Riserva Le Lucciole - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Romagna (11/18/2025)
Pretty color and nose of flowers and tart red fruits. Silky on the palate, but with some sneaky structure. This is quite good, but not sure if I need it due to the price. (92 points)
2011 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains (11/19/2025)
Mount Eden is a real sweet spot for me. Hits the fleshy black currant and dark cherry buttons with a really cool dark mineral, graphite freshness. This is in a great place now but given past performance may get even better. (94 points)
2007 Le Piane Boca - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Boca (11/23/2025)
My last bottle of a case and showing really well carrying on from my previous bottle in 2021 and with identical notes. Beautiful fruit, smoke and game with hints of forest and a beautiful spice nuance. The macerated cherries and plums are sweet without being overdone and there is just enough structure to hold it all in place and work really well at the table. The cork was soaked (as they all were from the same source) so bottles that are in more pristine condition might be behind this aging curve. (93 points)
2019 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/23/2025)
Best bottle yet. Really impressed with the sweet, floral fruit on the nose with hints of orange zest. The palate was silky and beautiful. This is great now. I guess it can probably last, but I don't think it will necessarily get better. (92 points)
2013 Platinetti Guido Ghemme Vigna Ronco al Maso - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (11/24/2025)
I'm not sure whether this needs more time or whether it will always be more angular than the 2010 and 2012 which both showed much more resolved in the last year. All the right Alto Nebbiolo aromas and flavors and a very nice mid-weight wine. The tannins just seemed a little bit firm for the fruit, at least to my palate. If you have more bottles it might be worth waiting a year or two to see if the structure resolves. I have some more recent vintages and will continue to follow this producer. BTW, the Guido little wines are also really good. (89 points)
2015 Poderi Colla Barolo Riserva Bussia Beppe Colla - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/25/2025)
Wow, this was really good! Took to a restaurant and they decanted it right away and we started in on it 30-45 minutes later. I had no idea what to expect, what I got seemed a bit like a throwback in terms of aromas and flavors, but without the rustic texture of wines from the 60s and 70s. Sumptuous fruit, tobacco, incense, spice, and dried flowers on the nose. The palate was silky with lovely sustained fruit. The structure felt more-or-less resolved to me. This is the first vintage of this wine and I bought it and have never tried it, so was really happy to get this read. It's pretty expensive, but when you consider that it's ready to drink now, maybe that's a fair tradeoff. For me, this is good to go now. It should keep for a while as well. (94 points)
2022 Punset Langhe Neh! - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (11/26/2025)
This was a fun and punchy blend of Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo (no idea what percentages). Just juicy enough and a little rustic. A bit of tannin, good fruit but not a fruity wine. This is really fairly priced and a great everyday red. (88 points)
NV Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Terroirs Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (11/27/2025)
This bottle was base 2016 (d.02/2020). This has started to take on some more mature notes but retains it's Côte des Blancs freshness and precision. I only have a bottle of this disgorgement left and will drink it over the next year, I expect. (91 points)
2016 Laherte Frères Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Grandes Crayères - France, Champagne (11/27/2025)
I love how fresh this still almost six years after disgorgement (d.02/2020). It's started to develop some autolytic notes but the chalkiness still screams Chardonnay. Nice comparison with the Agrapart Terroirs from the same vintage base and disgorgement. (92 points)
2018 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (11/27/2025)
This was a somewhat perplexing showing for this wine and I think it's going through a somewhat awkward stage. We opened two bottles and both showed similarly. There is that Collier richness and hints of lanolin but it was a bit clunky on the palate without the typical grace. I'll probably try another bottle soon just to confirm this showing. (89 points)
2005 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (11/27/2025)
Unlike my buddy brooklynguy, I did have a chance to double decant this magnum a few hours before dinner. We actually had the same magnum over the summer that I think I liked more than he did and thought it showed better than the bottle tonight (but memory is a fragile thing). I don't think this is yet all it can be but it still showed nice sous bois elements and silky fruit. A couple of wines had odd showings, so maybe it was just one of those nights where things just didn't show their best. That being said, it was emptied pretty fast. I'll wait a year or two to open another magnum, unless I don't. (92 points)
2017 Ch“teau L'Eglise-Clinet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (11/27/2025)
The dark purple color gives aromas of violets, cocoa powder, and silky blackberry fruit. Sumptuous and long with the buried tannins making themselves felt on the finish. The fruit finishes deep and long but not at all ponderous. I'm quite smitten with this wine. If you have a bunch it's worth checking in but it is sure to improve for years, probably decades. (94 points)
2022 Matthiasson Zinfandel Old Vine Armor Plate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (11/30/2025)
I was really excited to try this, really old vine Zinfandel in Jill and Steve's hands. It shows a pale magenta and is somewhat grumpy on opening. We decant into a carafe in the restaurant which helps. Pretty strawberry and floral notes. At only 13.0% alcohol it is lithe and tangy. There are some savory notes and I gather this is partially whole cluster. A really interesting take on Zinfandel but may be a bit too pricey to be in our regular rotation. If they keep making it, I'll keep trying it. (90 points)
