TN: The Virtual Tasting #57 (December 8, 2025)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Don+Melissa, Eden+Scott, Jay, Jayson, Jeff, Lisa, Victor

Zoom! Little bottles, bottles. Zoom! Little bottles....

Jay and Eden pouring. It was supposed to have been Seth's turn but his entire household caught something; I don't think it was brett but, anyway, Eden graciously donned her Lord High Substitute hat and jumped in.

Jay has served all reds so we both start and finish with Eden's selections.

E1. Cotat, F. 2015 Sancerre "Les Culs de Beaujeu" - This immediately smells well: beautiful bouquet, creamy, flowery; but the palate is a lot less impressive, closed and flat. Being who we are we start our guessing at chenin (no), Rhone (no), France (yes), Loire (yes), and after a little more head-scratching, sauvignon blanc (yes). "Has sauvignon blanc character in the finish" -Jayson. "Has an anisette top note in the fragrance" -Jayson. "Spicy, peppery nose" -Victor. Don and Jayson eventually id the maker and vineyard.
Day 2...Jay: The Culs de b Sancerre was much better today. Delish!
Day 5...Jeff: so much better; orange and lemon pith on the attack; yellow fruit on the sustain; resin and flowers (and some alcohol bitterness) on the decay; not entirely lust-worthy but very good

E2. Cotat, F. 2012 Sancerre Rose - Being who we are, Jay asks, before tasting, "Cotat?" (yes). We're pretty sure this bronze-pink color signifies a rose (yes). We eventually guess the year. This wine has so much going on in the finish... kirsch, saffron, candle wax, great stuff.
Day 5...Jeff: also much more settled, delicate little red fruits (fruits des bois) more than yellow, still holding pretty primary and fresh, yum

There is a side-discussion of how much better F. Cotat is than P. Cotat.

J1. Caveau de Bacchus (Lucien Aviet) 2021 Trousseau Arbois "Cuvee des Geologues" Ruzard -
J2. Dom. de la Touraize 2019 Trousseau "Les Corvees" -
Served together. We pick up that they are made from the same grape, but J2 comes from a warmer vintage. Good acidity and gracious red fruits. Eventually, Victor suggests "Jura?" (yes) and then "Trousseau?" (yes). But we're very divided over which is better.
Day 2...Jay: Trousseaus never improved.
Day 2...Jayson: I thought the second Trousseau improve. No. 2. I liked it!
Day 2...Jay: I probably should have let them warm up
Day 2...Eden: In all fairness, the Trousseaus paired rather well with my arctic char tonight. Must give credit where due.
Day 5...Jeff: Aviet - more little red fruits but with some serious oomph this time, rather phenolic, good cut, light texture of a quaffing wine but much prettier; glad I waited on this as sometimes I have found Aviet wines more lifted than I want until they open
Day 5...Jeff: Touraize - similar but a whiff of 'natural wine' here; palate is natty and the finish keeps squeaking; oh well (erase that with the last swig of the Aviet!)

J3. Ch. La Louviere 1989 Graves -
J4. Ch. La Louviere 1990 Graves -
These two smell like "Bordeaux?" (yes). "J3 smells of roasted red peppers!" -Eden. We place them in Graves for exactly the minerally/earthy reasons you might imagine. Both of these are very beautiful and kinda ageless. We eventually guess the decades of the wines. (This flight makes me glad I have some '90 Louviere in storage.)
Day 5...Jeff: Louv 89 - what a beauty! tannins just so, good warm fruit - still sweet but not cloying, fine furry tongue, long pure finish, great
Day 5...Jeff: Louv 90 - similar but slightly blacker-fruited, finish just a tad roasty; happy for the heartier cup so not really a critique just a description; more than the '89 this makes me want to search the cupboards for something to go with

J5. Dunn 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley -
J6. Dunn 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley -
Another pair, more cab, but this is Cal Cab. Typique flavors, and again opinion is very divided. I think there is something extra in the nose of J6. "J5 is fully resolved" -Jayson.
Day 2...Jayson: Right now, 1992 Dunn in glass, and it's opened very nicely.
Day 5...Jeff: Dunn 91 - same main grape as the Louviere but very different expression: this emphasizes the tobacco and blackberry profile, tannic nearly to the point of bitterness, great purity redeems it, very good acids, absolutely amazing that this is 30+ years old!, a handsome cup (if a little Johnny One-Note), a chunk of Emmenthaler helps a lot ("Buy on apples, sell on cheese")
Day 5...Jeff: Dunn 92 - a little broader flavor-set, some perfume or old lady handkerchief here, maybe even a red fruit peeking out from the wall of blackberries, suaver on the palate; totally and completely ready-to-go now, I don't know how this could get better

E3. Dom. Charvin 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape -
E4. Dom. de la Mordoree 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "La Reine des Bois" -
Both of these are closed, and E4 is incredibly tannic on top of it. Eden says these are different makers but the same region. We place them as Rhone and, with a little thought, Ch9. "The tannic, structured version of grenache" -Jayson. E4 has some alcoholic fire and bitterness... because it is 15% !
Day 5...Jeff: Charvin - nose not pleasant (harsh, smoky) but the palate is very nice (unctuous, red-fruit, good balance); overall kinda good
Day 5...Jeff: Mordoree - several shades darker color, chicken broth in the nose, salty, slightly perfumed; black fruits, you might think it's syrah!; roasty, maybe even a little chocolate, way improved over the first night

E5. Pichot 1989 Vouvray Moelleux "Dom. Le Peu de la Moriette - Golden and sweet and chosen based on a comment of Don's from two sessions ago! Most of the guessing is easy because the wine is in the normal form: Chenin? (yes), Loire? (yes), Vouvray? (yes). But we're stumped on the maker; after guessing everybody we know, we switch to guessing the vintage, which is not too hard given the richness and balance.
Day 5...Jeff: beautiful nose!, palate of talc and old lady's handkerchief and sweet candy drop, not sure what fruit is here(!)... maybe some apricot?, not as viscous as a sweet Huet nor as vinous, I'd guess sweetness in the 80-100 g/l range so not overwhelming, acidity generous and just lip-smacking, a nice way to finish

And some un-authoritative bottle shots...

Eden's wines:
2025-12-08_Eden_bottles.jpg


One Jay bottle:
2025-12-08_Jay_btl.jpg


And, yes, Don has the '90 of the same:
2025-12-08_Vouvray.jpg
 
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.

That gives La Reine des Bois an extra layer of meaning.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.
Ditto. I recall tasting some early/mid 90's cuvee and it was just awful.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.
Ditto. I recall tasting some early/mid 90's cuvee and it was just awful.

So this wine was not like those?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

J3. Ch. La Louviere 1989 Graves -
These two smell like "Bordeaux?" (yes). "J3 smells of roasted red peppers!" -Eden.

having drunk this hooch recently, this comment was muy evocative. my bottle was surprisingly fresh (acid wise) for an 89. yours too?

fb.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.
Ditto. I recall tasting some early/mid 90's cuvee and it was just awful.

So this wine was not like those?

No, it wasn't. Those were DNPIM bad. This was afflicted with overly-ripe fruit and torrefaction flavors but it was plausible to drink.
 
originally posted by fatboy:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

J3. Ch. La Louviere 1989 Graves -
These two smell like "Bordeaux?" (yes). "J3 smells of roasted red peppers!" -Eden.

having drunk this hooch recently, this comment was muy evocative. my bottle was surprisingly fresh (acid wise) for an 89. yours too?

fb.
Yes, it was. Hence, the comment about it being 'ageless' because, though we looked hard, we found no dilapidation. (I suppose, had it been truly vividly acidic, that would have caused me to mention it, so best to say it was all in balance.)
 
originally posted by fatboy:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

J3. Ch. La Louviere 1989 Graves -
These two smell like "Bordeaux?" (yes). "J3 smells of roasted red peppers!" -Eden.

having drunk this hooch recently, this comment was muy evocative. my bottle was surprisingly fresh (acid wise) for an 89. yours too?

fb.

maybe the comment was directed towards J4. things happen

for an 89 , or for an 89 that's not 89 ddc?

for an 89, or for an 89 that's neither ddc nor pape-clement?

sorry running out of printer paper as usual!
 
Many thanks to Comrade Tchichikov who, many years ago, recommended I keep an eye out for 89 and 90 Louviere. I have never regretted following that advice

It was a fascinating pairing of flights. The Louvieres were so unmistakably Bordeaux, the Dunns so unmistakeable California (I might even say Napa) yet both were fabulous examples of their own idioms.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.
Ditto. I recall tasting some early/mid 90's cuvee and it was just awful.

So this wine was not like those?

No, it wasn't. Those were DNPIM bad. This was afflicted with overly-ripe fruit and torrefaction flavors but it was plausible to drink.
I would have thought it would have been over ripe but your tasting notes didn’t suggest that. I like the 04 Charvin much better than you did, but such things happen.
 
FWIW I loathed the Chateauneufs but that should surprise no one

I wasn’t a fan of the ‘trousseaus either. As much as I adore some expensive versions I haven’t found an affordable one I really like yet. Poulsard seems much easier
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.
Ditto. I recall tasting some early/mid 90's cuvee and it was just awful.

So this wine was not like those?

No, it wasn't. Those were DNPIM bad. This was afflicted with overly-ripe fruit and torrefaction flavors but it was plausible to drink.
I would have thought it would have been over ripe but your tasting notes didn’t suggest that. I like the 04 Charvin much better than you did, but such things happen.
Herr Kollege Professor Doktor Loesberg, please note that "Those" and "This" are not the same thing. "Those" are the wines tasted long ago; "this" is the wine from a couple nights ago. So, yes, this wine is overripe.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
FWIW I loathed the Chateauneufs but that should surprise no one

I wasn’t a fan of the ‘trousseaus either. As much as I adore some expensive versions I haven’t found an affordable one I really like yet. Poulsard seems much easier
I’ve had good luck with Domaine Rolet with a couple of years on it. And not expensive.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
FWIW I loathed the Chateauneufs but that should surprise no one

I wasn’t a fan of the ‘trousseaus either. As much as I adore some expensive versions I haven’t found an affordable one I really like yet. Poulsard seems much easier

Have you tried Julien Crinquand? I like his P’tit Prince cuvée

(Though I also like Aviet, so YMMV)
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
FWIW I loathed the Chateauneufs but that should surprise no one

I wasn’t a fan of the ‘trousseaus either. As much as I adore some expensive versions I haven’t found an affordable one I really like yet. Poulsard seems much easier

Have you tried Julien Crinquand? I like his P’tit Prince cuvée

(Though I also like Aviet, so YMMV)

I haven’t but will check it out. Thanks!
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
When I last tasted Mordoree CdP, it was 100% new oak. Maybe Delorme had changed it by 2004. It’s hard to think you guys would have missed it. He was a winemaker who absolutely followed his own taste. It was never mine, though.
Ditto. I recall tasting some early/mid 90's cuvee and it was just awful.

So this wine was not like those?

No, it wasn't. Those were DNPIM bad. This was afflicted with overly-ripe fruit and torrefaction flavors but it was plausible to drink.
I would have thought it would have been over ripe but your tasting notes didn’t suggest that. I like the 04 Charvin much better than you did, but such things happen.
Herr Kollege Professor Doktor Loesberg, please note that "Those" and "This" are not the same thing. "Those" are the wines tasted long ago; "this" is the wine from a couple nights ago. So, yes, this wine is overripe.

And indeed I was saying that your tasting note for THIS wine did not indicate that it was over ripe, though you have now said it was twice. I can generally keep my indexicals straight, Beckett to the contrary notwithstanding.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Yule Kim:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
FWIW I loathed the Chateauneufs but that should surprise no one

I wasn’t a fan of the ‘trousseaus either. As much as I adore some expensive versions I haven’t found an affordable one I really like yet. Poulsard seems much easier

Have you tried Julien Crinquand? I like his P’tit Prince cuvée

(Though I also like Aviet, so YMMV)

I haven’t but will check it out. Thanks!

Jay, I brought a bottle to our dinner August 5 at Aba, where it was fairly well received. I can't recall your impression though.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Yule Kim:
Have you tried Julien Crinquand? I like his P’tit Prince cuvée

(Though I also like Aviet, so YMMV)

I haven’t but will check it out. Thanks!

Jay, I brought a bottle to our dinner August 5 at Aba, where it was fairly well received. I can't recall your impression though.

I liked that one.
 
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