Jura/Savoie
2023 Domaine Morel - Les Pieds Sur Terre Poulsard En Boutasse: Pretty wild strawberries and florals on the nose, but also a bit lifted. Some volatility frames the delicate red fruit and herbs, but I would say it adds interest rather than detracts. Very refreshing and pure, though not overly complex and thought-provoking. A nice, glou-glou bistro wine.
2022 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Selection Massale Les Varrons: No formal note, but this was really refined and elegant. Beautiful, wild strawberries on the nose intermingling with those distinctive floral, spiced, and slightly stemmy herbal aromas you get from whole clusters. Palate has juicy red fruit, acidity that is already well-integrated with just a touch of joyous crunch. A really nice example of natural pinot noir.
2022 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Selection Clonale Les Varrons: I had this next to the selection massale, and while it shares a lot of similar characteristics (herbal, peppery, floral aromas, red-fruited palate), the acidity was a little punchier and texturally the wine was not as refined. Still quite good, but definitely a step down from the selection massale.
2020 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes: Lots of aromatic floral aromas on the nose with tart citrus and salinity on the palate accompanied by a vibrant, lively acidity. However, this is still a little tightly coiled. It could use a couple more years in the cellar to unwind. But, lots of great potential.
2022 Mathieu Allante et Christian Boulanger Pataratte: Really delicious and approachable right now. Definitely natural, with plenty of that lemony, acid-driven, feral quality you get from Jura Chardonnay, but clean and bright without any flaws.
2020 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura Le Plou: Surprisingly dense and ripe for a Poulsard, I think the solar-nature of the vintage did this wine no favors. On opening, there is a lot of CO2 and crunchiness on the palate, but that does blow off with time, giving the wine a sleeker, more approachable texture. Interestingly herbal and dark-fruited, with a pleasing, subtle bitter grip on the finish from the tannins, but this seems just a touch too big and high-octane for me. It doesn't have the delicacy and weightlessness I normally expect from a Jura Poulsard.
2005 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père: Wow, absolutely electric acidity that just persists from the initial attack throughout the long, long finish. The palate is infused with lemon, salt, and crushed rock, and texturally, this is quite fine and seamless, with a lot more polish and finesse than the feral quality that Jura whites can sometimes have. Razor sharp with incredible tension and length. Phenomenal wine. From magnum.
2012 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Cuvée Marguerite: Another delicious and scintillating Jura Chardonnay (Melon-Queue-Rouge), with tremendous acid, citrus, salt, and minerality on the palate. At this point, texturally, the wine has shed the feral, slightly crunchy edge that young Jura whites can have; it's all seamlessly sleek and spherical at this point. Just showed beautifully. From magnum.
2020 Domaine Labet Fleur de Savagnin: Big, bold, in-your-face rendition of Jura Savagnin with lots of yellow fruit and citrus on the palate. A bit more rough-n-tumble than the Ganevat wines, but this is also a lot younger. Great acidity, long finish, perhaps a little hint of vanilla from the barrel and a bit of oxidative nuttiness, but nonetheless, a heavy-hitter of a Jura white.
2014 Michel Grisard Priez Saint Christophe Tradition: Beautiful floral and dark-fruited aromatics that just explode from the glass. The palate is perhaps a bit too demure and quiet right now, but I've had bottles that are much more intense. This might be a touch shut down. But, it still has that fine-boned, silky texture and featherlight weight to it. From magnum.
Rhone/Southern France
2012 La Grande Colline Cornas: Beautifully floral nose that is a bit herbal with just a tinge of dark fruit. The palate has a similarly cool, dark fruit that is juicy, the acidity is quite fine, and the texture is already quite elegant with just a hint of grip from the tannins. You can tell this is a natural wine; has that silky semi-carbonic texture, but you also get hints of that smoky, meaty, peppery flavor you get from Cornas with a bit of bitter herbs as well. Really long on the finish. Great wine.
2004 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape: This was nice. Despite having that Grenache-driven, fruity sheen, it also had a delicate elegance as well, infused with flavors of garrigue and anise. Nice acidity and a firm mineral backbone to the wine to give shape to that luminescent, neon-glow of assertive fruit (though there is also a slight touch of heat). From magnum.
1986 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Tourtine: Wow, this was still so lively on the palate, but alloyed with some fading, tertiary dark fruit, garrigue, a little barnyard funk, and salinity. Texturally quite silky, tannins are pretty much fully resolved at this point, and the wine is quite sleek and elegant. Beautiful showing.
1986 Domaine de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage Robert Doutres: Dark brown and viscously syrupy, but good acidity to balance the caramel and dried fruit notes on the palate. Super intense dessert wine that has enough lift to keep it from being cloying. An interesting wine, if a bit heavy-handed. Thoroughly enjoyable in the moment though.
Loire
2019 La Grapperie Aphrodite Coteaux du Loir: Very frizzante when we poured this into our glasses. On the initial pour, it came across as quite cidery on the finish. That cleared up a little bit, and I got a little bit of Chenin Blanc wet wool and lanolin, but the fruit came across as a little too bruised for my taste. I also began to notice a slightly off hint of mousiness on the finish as the wine developed with more air in the glass.
2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée: Very interesting nose: lots of merde when it was first poured, but it clears up with time in the glass, unveiling aromas of graphite, flint, and charcoal woven in with floral violet notes. The palate has a cool, dark fruit that is a little lean, but that smoky minerality and streaks of green add a real nice layer of complexity to the wine. Super elegant and light-weight, it feels like it is floating on the palate. Tannins leave some pleasing grip on the palate, but are otherwise quite silky at this point. Delicious.
2002 François Cazin (Le Petit Chambord) Cour-Cheverny Vendanges Manuelles Cuvée Renaissance: Surprisingly savory with nice, crisp acidity, waxy texture, and just a hint of sweetness. Wonderfully aromatic on the nose. Interesting palate of yellow fruit and herbs combined with subtly tertiary nutty, caramel, and honeyed notes. Definitely can taste the alcohol here, but there is balance and it is very complex.
2018 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore: Beautifully expressive sweet herbal and white floral nose, on the palate, it is quite ripe and round with a sleek, but oily texture (though resolutely dry). I'm getting those classic Vatan mint flavors with hints of citrus zest and white fruit. Despite the vintage, the acidity is sufficient to provide tension and architecture to the wine. This feels very ready and open at the moment. From magnum.
Bordeaux
1979 Lur-Saluces "Y": Incredibly complex and intense wine with tremendous midpalate density, mouthwatering acidity, developed tertiary flavors of caramel, hazelnuts, and mushroom notes within a resolutely dry and mineral framework. Expressive nose, and powerful finish.
2023 Domaine Morel - Les Pieds Sur Terre Poulsard En Boutasse: Pretty wild strawberries and florals on the nose, but also a bit lifted. Some volatility frames the delicate red fruit and herbs, but I would say it adds interest rather than detracts. Very refreshing and pure, though not overly complex and thought-provoking. A nice, glou-glou bistro wine.
2022 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Selection Massale Les Varrons: No formal note, but this was really refined and elegant. Beautiful, wild strawberries on the nose intermingling with those distinctive floral, spiced, and slightly stemmy herbal aromas you get from whole clusters. Palate has juicy red fruit, acidity that is already well-integrated with just a touch of joyous crunch. A really nice example of natural pinot noir.
2022 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Selection Clonale Les Varrons: I had this next to the selection massale, and while it shares a lot of similar characteristics (herbal, peppery, floral aromas, red-fruited palate), the acidity was a little punchier and texturally the wine was not as refined. Still quite good, but definitely a step down from the selection massale.
2020 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes: Lots of aromatic floral aromas on the nose with tart citrus and salinity on the palate accompanied by a vibrant, lively acidity. However, this is still a little tightly coiled. It could use a couple more years in the cellar to unwind. But, lots of great potential.
2022 Mathieu Allante et Christian Boulanger Pataratte: Really delicious and approachable right now. Definitely natural, with plenty of that lemony, acid-driven, feral quality you get from Jura Chardonnay, but clean and bright without any flaws.
2020 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura Le Plou: Surprisingly dense and ripe for a Poulsard, I think the solar-nature of the vintage did this wine no favors. On opening, there is a lot of CO2 and crunchiness on the palate, but that does blow off with time, giving the wine a sleeker, more approachable texture. Interestingly herbal and dark-fruited, with a pleasing, subtle bitter grip on the finish from the tannins, but this seems just a touch too big and high-octane for me. It doesn't have the delicacy and weightlessness I normally expect from a Jura Poulsard.
2005 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père: Wow, absolutely electric acidity that just persists from the initial attack throughout the long, long finish. The palate is infused with lemon, salt, and crushed rock, and texturally, this is quite fine and seamless, with a lot more polish and finesse than the feral quality that Jura whites can sometimes have. Razor sharp with incredible tension and length. Phenomenal wine. From magnum.
2012 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Cuvée Marguerite: Another delicious and scintillating Jura Chardonnay (Melon-Queue-Rouge), with tremendous acid, citrus, salt, and minerality on the palate. At this point, texturally, the wine has shed the feral, slightly crunchy edge that young Jura whites can have; it's all seamlessly sleek and spherical at this point. Just showed beautifully. From magnum.
2020 Domaine Labet Fleur de Savagnin: Big, bold, in-your-face rendition of Jura Savagnin with lots of yellow fruit and citrus on the palate. A bit more rough-n-tumble than the Ganevat wines, but this is also a lot younger. Great acidity, long finish, perhaps a little hint of vanilla from the barrel and a bit of oxidative nuttiness, but nonetheless, a heavy-hitter of a Jura white.
2014 Michel Grisard Priez Saint Christophe Tradition: Beautiful floral and dark-fruited aromatics that just explode from the glass. The palate is perhaps a bit too demure and quiet right now, but I've had bottles that are much more intense. This might be a touch shut down. But, it still has that fine-boned, silky texture and featherlight weight to it. From magnum.
Rhone/Southern France
2012 La Grande Colline Cornas: Beautifully floral nose that is a bit herbal with just a tinge of dark fruit. The palate has a similarly cool, dark fruit that is juicy, the acidity is quite fine, and the texture is already quite elegant with just a hint of grip from the tannins. You can tell this is a natural wine; has that silky semi-carbonic texture, but you also get hints of that smoky, meaty, peppery flavor you get from Cornas with a bit of bitter herbs as well. Really long on the finish. Great wine.
2004 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape: This was nice. Despite having that Grenache-driven, fruity sheen, it also had a delicate elegance as well, infused with flavors of garrigue and anise. Nice acidity and a firm mineral backbone to the wine to give shape to that luminescent, neon-glow of assertive fruit (though there is also a slight touch of heat). From magnum.
1986 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Tourtine: Wow, this was still so lively on the palate, but alloyed with some fading, tertiary dark fruit, garrigue, a little barnyard funk, and salinity. Texturally quite silky, tannins are pretty much fully resolved at this point, and the wine is quite sleek and elegant. Beautiful showing.
1986 Domaine de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage Robert Doutres: Dark brown and viscously syrupy, but good acidity to balance the caramel and dried fruit notes on the palate. Super intense dessert wine that has enough lift to keep it from being cloying. An interesting wine, if a bit heavy-handed. Thoroughly enjoyable in the moment though.
Loire
2019 La Grapperie Aphrodite Coteaux du Loir: Very frizzante when we poured this into our glasses. On the initial pour, it came across as quite cidery on the finish. That cleared up a little bit, and I got a little bit of Chenin Blanc wet wool and lanolin, but the fruit came across as a little too bruised for my taste. I also began to notice a slightly off hint of mousiness on the finish as the wine developed with more air in the glass.
2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée: Very interesting nose: lots of merde when it was first poured, but it clears up with time in the glass, unveiling aromas of graphite, flint, and charcoal woven in with floral violet notes. The palate has a cool, dark fruit that is a little lean, but that smoky minerality and streaks of green add a real nice layer of complexity to the wine. Super elegant and light-weight, it feels like it is floating on the palate. Tannins leave some pleasing grip on the palate, but are otherwise quite silky at this point. Delicious.
2002 François Cazin (Le Petit Chambord) Cour-Cheverny Vendanges Manuelles Cuvée Renaissance: Surprisingly savory with nice, crisp acidity, waxy texture, and just a hint of sweetness. Wonderfully aromatic on the nose. Interesting palate of yellow fruit and herbs combined with subtly tertiary nutty, caramel, and honeyed notes. Definitely can taste the alcohol here, but there is balance and it is very complex.
2018 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore: Beautifully expressive sweet herbal and white floral nose, on the palate, it is quite ripe and round with a sleek, but oily texture (though resolutely dry). I'm getting those classic Vatan mint flavors with hints of citrus zest and white fruit. Despite the vintage, the acidity is sufficient to provide tension and architecture to the wine. This feels very ready and open at the moment. From magnum.
Bordeaux
1979 Lur-Saluces "Y": Incredibly complex and intense wine with tremendous midpalate density, mouthwatering acidity, developed tertiary flavors of caramel, hazelnuts, and mushroom notes within a resolutely dry and mineral framework. Expressive nose, and powerful finish.