TN: 2024 Kabinetten (Feb 25, 2026)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Brent, Dale, Jay, Jayson, Jeff

Brad, ever a whirl of motion, rings up a few of us to taste the new vintage. The whispers about 2024 are positive so let's see! Brad coordinates so we don't overlap our brings. There is the expected majority of Mosel wine with one Nahe and one Rheinhessen. (You probably already know who they are before continuing to read.)

Brent brings in Richter so we have extra helpings of that house.

Of course, with this much riesling we have to order-in Chinese food for dinner. So, with chicken chow mein aforethought, but Singapore Noodles actually bought, here we go:

Max. Ferd Richter 2024 Elisenberg R K - 13 25, reductive when opened (and I thought we'd see a lot more of that in these young wines but it was not common at all), slate-y, nice smellies but not rocking my mouth like the '21 did, texture sorta vanishes halfway through

Max. Ferd Richter 2024 Wehlener Sonnenuhr R K - 19 25, so different! great terroir expression, rounder, all folded up and only grudgingly present to be tasted, Jay thinks this is sweeter than the first bottle, my note on this wine is very odd: shut-up closet (the smell when you open a linen closet that hasn't been opened for a few days, not musty but too settled and dense)

Max. Ferd Richter 2024 Brauneberger Juffer R K - 18 25, this is really excellent, more depth to the palate, well-balanced, universally acclaimed and, for a while, we didn't encounter a wine that even came close

Weiser-Kunstler 2024 Enkircher Ellergrub R K - corked

Keller 2024 "Limestone" R K - 06 25, very forward, clean and crisp but not exciting, "monolithic" (Jay?), "simpler" (Brad?)

Carl Loewen 2024 Longuich Herrenberg R K - 15 25, really herby, "bubble gum?" (Jayson), not overtly bad but weird
NB. I took the rest home; on Day 4 the herby thing changes into 'old lady handkerchief' mixed bouquet sort of thing, which is an improvement

Max Kilburg 2024 Treppchen "vorm Berg" R K - 19 25, reduced to start but this blossoms, palate is broad and mineral-driven, great wine

Willi Schaefer 2024 Graacher Himmelreich R K - 02 25, classic, shimmery and nimble, universally acclaimed

Willi Schaefer 2024 Graacher Domprobst R K - 03 25, also classic but fuller and richer than the Graacher Himmelreich, apparently you can't go wrong with Schaefer

Donnhoff 2024 Niederhauser Hermannshohle R S - 16 25, stylish, definitely sweeter, but also very forward, the signature lime-leaf is broadened in this vintage (or maybe with a little extra sugar)

Vollenweider 2024 Wolfer Goldgrube "Wurzelecht" R K - 02 25, slightly sparkling, palate is lighter and attuned to more yellow fruits, gets a lot of oohs when first opened (but not from me)

Falkenstein 2024 Krettnacher Euchariusberg R S "Klaus" - 06 25, this is very impressive, more compact than the Schaefer, a little more bitterness and something like mint or basil, I read that Falkenstein always harvests en bloc so maybe that boosts the complexity

Max. Ferd Richter 2024 Elisenberg R A - 09 25, "soda pop" vibe (not that it was achingly sweet just struck us as un-serious)

Max. Ferd Richter 2024 Brauneberger Juffer R A - 11 25, "a lot of grapefruit" (Jay), there is a whole lotta wine here and it will need some time to settle in

Max. Ferd Richter 2023 Pinot Noir, Mulheim "Auf Steinberg" - 53 24, grown on blue slate in a south-facing vineyard, lively bouquet but bitter and weird on the palate, this can't be right

Summarizing: Everything is listed at 7.5% - 8.5% abv except the pinot noir at 12.5%. Everyone at the table is comparing these wines with their '21 counterparts... and they fall a little shy of the mark. The '24s do not have the rollicking (shrieking, for some) acidity nor quite the same flavor intensity. It's a good vintage, certainly, and deserves to be poured but I think hearts are still affixed to '21.

Table favorites were definitely the two Schaefers and the Juffer. There was a lot of divergence on a fourth pick... could be Kilburg (Jay), Donnhoff (Brad), or Falkenstein (Dale). I think I'm with Jay on this one but all three are all terrific.

2026-02-25_rieslings.jpg

Many thanks to everyone for bringing excellent wine and your excellent selves. Extra thanks to Brent who brought a table-full of Richter. And long gold cap thanks to Brad for organizing and hosting.
 
Thanks for the notes, Jeff. We're largely in agreement. I thought the two Willi Schaefer, the Donnhoff and the Richter- Braunenberger Juffer were tops, with the Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr close behind, but pretty much liked everything other than the Loewen and Keller.

Btw, you may want to make a change as they weren't all Kabinett. The Donnhoff and Falenstein were Spatlese and the two Richters on the right of the photo are Auslese.
 
The notes are correct -- R K versus R S versus R A -- but I left the title as just "Kabinetten" because that was the theme of the evening.
 
For folks who have been liking the Max Kilburg wines I've been opening lately, Source Material just put out the offer for the 2024 Spatlesen. I'm guessing there is very low quantity. They are clearing through Crush, and there is an automatic 10% discount if you buy more than one.
 
Saw that offer. Tempting, but a pass for me. A group of us tasted 2022 Trocken, Kabinett and Spatlese from Goldtropfchen and Ohligsberg. We all felt that Kabinett was where Kilburg excelled. Spatlese certainly weren't bad by any stretch, but the sugar/acid balance wasn't as compelling as with Kabinett. For a time in the past year, it was possible to get '21 and '22 Kabinett for $15-25 on WineBid. IMO, one of the great bargains in German Riesling.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Everyone at the table is comparing these wines with their '21 counterparts... and they fall a little shy of the mark. The '24s do not have the rollicking (shrieking, for some) acidity nor quite the same flavor intensity. It's a good vintage, certainly, and deserves to be poured but I think hearts are still affixed to '21.

That has been my initial reaction as well, the 2024s I've tasted have been difficult and backwards. But will be interesting to see how it evolves over time.
 
Back
Top